Fitting Hondaman unit.

[Lobo]

Not sure of the 500 battery strap geography, but on my 400F I simply bonded a light alloy ‘tab’ to the back of the ignition unit, put 2 radiused 180 bends (lower bend anchored the bottom of the strap) in it and hung it over said strap. The unit was therefore cooled adequately, took minimal space and looked almost professionally mounted.

[JezzaPeach]

No problem Roo. The instructions just posted by Phil were fine, in fact my phone managed to copy the words as text into ‘notes’ and I could print it! I’ve got it fitted now, and seems to run well, in fact it started instantly. I haven’t been for a run yet. I have asked Mark if it needs cooling and not putting in a pouch, in which case I can just pop it out and under the strap, but I dare say if that was the case it would have cooling fins. The only difference is the static timing needs a multimeter (on volts I think) instead of a bulb.

[JezzaPeach]

Update, ran well. The unit seems to get slightly warm so it’s no pouch, under the battery strap for now. 👍

[Oddjob]

I did ask Mark about removing the 2 screws that hold the box the unit comes in and using those screws to attach a steel plate to so I could then attach the plate to the back of the battery tray and hang it off there. He said it would be just fine doing that.

[JezzaPeach]

 👍

[deltarider]

I did ask Mark about removing the 2 screws that hold the box the unit comes in and using those screws to attach a steel plate to so I could then attach the plate to the back of the battery tray and hang it off there. He said it would be just fine doing that.

Too much work if you ask me. Under the strap has proved to be an excellent location. Mine hasn't moved a mm in all those years, in spite of numerous bumpy roads all over Europe. Also this location is vibration free, because of the six rubbers in the battery cage, meant to shield the battery from vibes. Moreover, the original wires in the harness can easily be disconnected and connected as the original male and female connectors are so nearby. All in all, the location couldn't be better and it's very tidy too, allowing the wires to be as short as possible.
Just the other day I have finished another of my homebuilt transistor ignition modules. This time I have chosen a bigger box as I found out that behind the RH sidepanel there's ample space, much more than you'd expect. This bigger box will allow fitting the 630VDC capacitors instead of the smaller 400V ones I used in the previous much smaller box. Also in this new module I use the BU931P power transistors instead of the old TIP 162 which seem no longer available. This new box will probably go on my CB500 and the old unit, still working flawlessly, will be donated to a friend's Yamaha XS650.
The reason is that:
a) I have already transplanted the Honda colour wires from my old box to the new one, so for the old module I will try to find the right colour wires that will match the Yamaha colour code.
b) More important: the Yamaha's OEM capacitors are, unlike our Honda ones, real near the coils, so I can easily have them maintained them and by doing so, I won't need capacitors at all anymore in my original box and so the problem of not enough room for the big 630VDC capacitors is elegantly circumvented.
Now please have a look at the wires if you will. Obviously the yellow and blue males will be connected to the original females coming from the resp. coils NEG hanging down. The yellow and blue females will be hanging down to be connected to the original males coming up from their resp. breakerpoints.
Obviously the green wire will be connected to the nearby battery's NEG terminal. The black wire obviously still needs extension to be connected to one of the coils POS side, so when the kill switch is in OFF the ignition unit will also be switched off.
What I am not satisfied with, is the two short black and the two short green wires exiting the box which - for the moment - are joined in one side of a 'kroonsteentje' (don't know the word in English). Now I have used kroonsteentjes before with success. The ones needed to extend the wires to the rear indicators, when I fitted a luggage carrier in 1980 (!) have never caused a problem and are still there. But here, at my ignition box, I'd welcome a solution that looks somewhat nicer. What kind of connector can I use to replace the two 'kroonsteentjes'?

[JezzaPeach]

Excellent many thanks to all.
kroonsteentje we sometimes call ‘choc bloc’ or ‘chocolate block’ connectors (which they sort of look like!). I’d solder maybe, with a ‘heat shrink’ insulator over, or more Honda type bullet connectors? Mind you the kroonsteentje stay pretty secure.

[Oddjob]

It might be easier DR but TBH it looks shite, like you couldn't be bothered to do a decent job of locating it. As mine is also going onto the battery tray it's also using the rubber mounting system to stop vibrations. I'd imagine TBH the battery moves more than the tray, it's the heaviest part.

[deltarider]

It might be easier DR but TBH it looks shite, like you couldn't be bothered to do a decent job of locating it.

Once on the road, there aren't that many onlookers, not behind the side panel. I admit the location was initially meant for a testride only, some 20-25 years ago. But it was such a success: in all those years it has proved to be a trusty location and the vicinity of where the stock harness has its two male and female connectors is a big plus. As if Honda anticipated my EI.

[Oddjob]

I know that DR but I know it's there and that's enough for me. I hate having to remove stuff just to get to other stuff, especially if the offending part wasn't meant to be there in the first place. Just the way I am.

[JezzaPeach]

Each to their own, it generates some great innovation on the forum.

[deltarider]

Below a pic that demonstrates the difference in size between the new box (112x61x31mm) and the previous one (100x50x25mm) which from now will continue its life on a Yamaha XS650. Both boxes are from the Hammond 1590B series. I was surprised how much room there is behind the RH side panel. Even with the bigger box installed, there's still room for contrabande.  . Also in the pic the blue 400V capacitor which was the maximum size I could squeeze in the smaller box and the somewhat bigger green 630VDC one. I don't expect a difference in performance.
Actually the wires exiting the box are longer than needed, as the original male and female connectors in the OEM harnass are so nearby. Bottom right in the pic the OEM wires coming from the breakerpoints.
With this set up, my breakerpoints have lived 60.000 km. I don't know about aftermarket breakerpoints, but the TEC ones are very, very good quality. Maintenance is zero, as long as the little felt is lubed.
First ride in spring, it's my habit, to mount the by me much hated tankbag, to accomodate a dwellmeter. As long as dwell reads the same as last time and remains constant up into red zone, all is well and no readjustment let alone replacement is needed.