Inlet Manifold studs - modify?

[Bryanj]

So does the cbx rocker cover but you still need the evostick

[Oddjob]

Yeah but on that there was loads of stuff that caught the gasket as you were trying to refit the box, plus it was bloody tight getting it back in place, not a great deal at the back of a 500/550 head to do that especially if there are no studs anymore. There's only the top bolt for the tensioner that can catch it I reckon.

[Orcade-Ian]

.........and you really HAVE to tilt that bleedin' great lump forwards to get the carbs out, good job there's no frame tubes in the way.
K2-K6 - I experimented with a 'back pressure' system for setting the slides equal - I didn't persevere as it was no better (or worse) than the small drill method prior to Vac sync. 

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Bryan, I used a couple of dabs of blue Hylomar to keep the o rings in the elbows on my GL1000 - I think you supplied one of those to replace my cracked one?

Ian

[Orcade-Ian]

For Delta rider,
I've done 350/4 float bowls like that but these carbs needed a full seeing to in the first instance - I knew they were 627's (CB500) so had to see what jetting was there - as it turned out they were 38/98, so OK for 550F1.

Ian

[Moorey]

  If you don't want to go to the bother of soldering and plating I would have thought a drop of Loctite 270 would do what your initial requirement
  was.

[Orcade-Ian]

Thanks for that alternative - I'm sure you are right.  I always seem to gravitate towards silver soldering - I have plenty and will never get to the bottom of the tub of powdered flux I bought 30 years ago! It's also very satisfying to see the material suddenly flow through a joint if everything is clean and the temperature right.   I also sometimes forget that modern products are often simpler and in many cases better.

Ian

[AshimotoK0]

Thanks for that alternative - I'm sure you are right.  I always seem to gravitate towards silver soldering - I have plenty and will never get to the bottom of the tub of powdered flux I bought 30 years ago! It's also very satisfying to see the material suddenly flow through a joint if everything is clean and the temperature right.   I also sometimes forget that modern products are often simpler and in many cases better.

Ian

Just bought bought a pulsed MIG welder and silicon bronze reel of wire to have a go at it ... also a Furick 'Jazzy' cup setup to have a got at Si bronze TIG ... both using pure Argon ... no flux. Never to old to learn y'know 

[Orcade-Ian]

That sounds like a great piece of kit Ash, especially if it can be used for TIG too.  I still have a Portopack set with Oxy/Acet, so always tend to go for gas welding/brazing/just getting things bloody hot!  I don't use it for gas-axeing, it uses far too much gas, so just take big stuff to the smiddy.  We have a stockist up here for Hobby Weld gases - no rental charges.  Might have to ask Gordon about that kit - is there a brand name?

Ian

[AshimotoK0]

That sounds like a great piece of kit Ash, especially if it can be used for TIG too.  I still have a Portopack set with Oxy/Acet, so always tend to go for gas welding/brazing/just getting things bloody hot!  I don't use it for gas-axeing, it uses far too much gas, so just take big stuff to the smiddy.  We have a stockist up here for Hobby Weld gases - no rental charges.  Might have to ask Gordon about that kit - is there a brand name?

Ian

See below some videos to watch Ian. All USA ones but quite informative.

I mainly need it to make repairs to exhausts and tanks etc but on some parts I use silver solder brazing with a MAP gas torch. Oxy/Acet would be nice but the cost of the hire of even Portopak doesn't really warrant the constant outlay for me. I decided during lock-down to try to do as much myself as possible because you can get p*ssed around so much taking stuff to the 'experts' ..One thing I did was buy myself a small Devilbiss spray gun and air-fed mask to paint my metallic and solid colour bikes. The cost of pro-paint doesn't really warrant the expense on smaller bikes and I hate posting stuff like painted items etc so the time/milage to take stuff back and forth to people also adds up. I am never gong to be an expert at it but quite pleased and satisfied with the results so far. Plus the time scales of pro's always seems to take twice as long as quoted .. I had to wait 2 years for my CD125 to be candy painted in the UK and it ended up costing me £1,200. Menno in Germany  was great though but sadly #@%$ has put a stop to that.
So last year I decided to have a go at TIG/MIG silicon bronze brazing to recover chromed items and tanks and panels etc and again invested in some fairly decent kit. I managed to get a really cheap source of pure argon gas and no bottle rental (full size bottle). I find that if you invest in decent kit, then if you get to the stage where you don't use it any more, you can get a decent resale .. Devilbiss/SATA spray guns are a prime example.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTw1-yag3IY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUiQfupEwOk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvR2q-NuZB0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPI_XNCrES8&t=361s

[Orcade-Ian]

Thanks Ash for the clip links - I'll enjoy those when Christine is watching stuff on the 'idiots lantern'.
I also use Mapp gas in a really good Rothenberger torch but for me, nothing beats the fine control of a number 2 nozzle in my SIF torch.  I fully agree with you on buying good quality equipment - the old 'buy cheap, buy twice' adage.  I think many folk of our age came through a golden age where we can afford to do that - many are not that fortunate.  BTW I don't have rented BOC cylinders any more for the same reason.
On the subject of paint re-finishing UPOL products take some beating - their No1 'smooth and easy' filler is fantastic and their range of aerosols - etch, high build and satin black are great for small stuff.  These days I tend to do all the donkey work of filling tanks and panels, then get a mate to hit them with 2 pack primer for me to guide coat and block down and then get him to add the final coats and lacquer.

Ian