Author Topic: Stripping chrome at Home (and nickel) NON PC .. not for Snowflakes  (Read 1203 times)

Offline AshimotoK0

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Watching this video that I posted recently, I always thought that plating shops reverse chromed parts in the chroming bath to remove the chrome & nickel layers of plating, in order to  minimise any  damage to the substrate steel. Problem is Chromic acid is really nasty stuff, hard to get hold of and I don't want to be 'Ashimoto of East Yorkshire'  with the local Erin Brockovitch on my back.
However, in the video posting and linked again here, the pro company used sulphuric acid with a couple of 'additives' to reverse plate strip the chrome and nickel from steel parts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RU9l66_XmDk

I have a few little bits off my C110 50cc Sports to re-chrome and I need them doing ASAP and can't afford  to wait the lead time at Prestige. The other thing is that I need repairs doing to a few parts with silver solder and bronze brazing which means getting the parts stripped, repaired and then back to the chromers so I put together a small setup to have a go myself.

Research on the internet recommends 5% glycerine added to a 50% strength sulphuric acid, the glycerine evidently limits the damage to the steel base metal. Battery acid is weaker than this so I got some One-Shot drain cleaner I have had in my garage for about 10 years. I remember buying it from a plumbing place in Hull and when I asked for it , the smart ar$e behind the counter says " Do you know who John George Haig' was?" .. so me being the  equivalent smart Ar$e replied " Yea he was the Acid Bath murderer in Crawley.' ...So he then plonks the bottle of drain cleaner on the counter and says " Well this stuff is 3 times stronger that the stuff he used''.. " sign here " .. presenting me with some kind of poisons register.

Anyway, the safety data sheet for the drain cleaner (made in good old 'ull by the way Orcadian) states 91% concentrate sulphuric acid, so I mixed the 1 litre bottle with 910 mls of de-ionised water .. Acid to water NOT water to acid, as it was drummed into me as a schoolboy.  It exotherms (heats up) quite a bit so the usually PPE bol*cks applies.... mask , rubber gloves, old clothes blah blah.

I set up a little bath and did everything outside and used a car battery and rheostat (variable resistor) to provide the current and some lead sheet  from my dodgy mate, as the cathode (negative terminal of battery). The anode (positive terminal of battery) is the chrome part to be stripped ... the rheostat is used in series with the positive terminal to control the current.  I reckon you could use combinations of headlamp bulbs to limit the current if you don't have a rheostat.
I  started out being all fancy with a multimeter etc. but they only usually measure up to 10A DC, at best,  so I just adjusted the current until there was loads of fizzing at the electrodes.

I must say it works really well and no real hassle to the base steel as long as you keep your eye on it and don't leave it in the bath any longer than required.

On triple plated parts you are left with the copper layer, so it is obvious that all of the nickel has been stripped off.

What I do with the non-triple plated parts is to paint the part after stripping,  with acid-copper marking solution that the old boys used to use for marking out steel parts. You basically get some copper sulphate dissolved in de-ionised water and add a few drops of sulphuric acid to it. As soon as you paint the de-plated part with the solution it turns a lovely salmon pink and any areas not stripped you will see a different colour patch. The copper plate doesn't really bond to the mild steel  so it easily buffed off afterwards. Proper copper plating is done with cyanide to get the initial copper layer and is very hard to remove without using nasty chemicals.
 
If you look at the rear shock cover in the 2nd photo, this wasn't triple plated but after stripping it was brushed with the copper marking solution and you can clearly see that where the  top part was not fully immersed in the bath and hence is still silver, not salmon pink.

My bath is only small but  my mate is going to donate me 5l of conc. sulphuric acid, in order  to make up a bigger 10 litre bath  .. plus more lead from my dodgy mate of course  ! Sorry , it wasn't me vicar  ;D


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« Last Edit: February 12, 2023, 09:16:00 AM by AshimotoK0 »
“Alright friends, you have seen the heavy groups, now you will see morning maniac music. Believe me, yeah. It’s a new dawn.” Grace Slick, Woodstock '69 .. In the year of the Sandcast.

Offline Sesman

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Re: Stripping chrome at Home (and nickel) NON PC .. not for Snowflakes
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2023, 03:35:40 PM »
Keep em coming Ash. The threads are very informative. I’m also happy to hear about the potential risks too, as long as they are proportionate and in context. 👍

Offline Lobo

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Re: Stripping chrome at Home (and nickel) NON PC .. not for Snowflakes
« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2023, 09:48:08 PM »
Keep bothering for me Ash; you are the forum’s guru of industrial processes /  knowledges - and all that goes with that.

Offline AshimotoK0

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Re: Stripping chrome at Home (and nickel) NON PC .. not for Snowflakes
« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2023, 07:40:49 AM »
Reminder !!  ;D ;D

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“Alright friends, you have seen the heavy groups, now you will see morning maniac music. Believe me, yeah. It’s a new dawn.” Grace Slick, Woodstock '69 .. In the year of the Sandcast.

Offline Trigger

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Re: Stripping chrome at Home (and nickel) NON PC .. not for Snowflakes
« Reply #4 on: February 13, 2023, 07:47:13 AM »
Nice little experiment with good results.
I thought Igor was responsible for health and safety  ;)

Offline Matt_Harrington

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Re: Stripping chrome at Home (and nickel) NON PC .. not for Snowflakes
« Reply #5 on: February 13, 2023, 04:22:51 PM »
Interesting - I have a couple of old Triumph parts that I want to strip and repair, so may give this technique a go later on int the spring. Thanks for the post.
Matt
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CB400F 1976 -  Almost finished
CB400F 1977 - On the road!
Moto Guzzi Le Mans 2 - 1981 (undergoing a spruce up)
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Offline kevski

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Re: Stripping chrome at Home (and nickel) NON PC .. not for Snowflakes
« Reply #6 on: February 15, 2023, 03:50:33 PM »
Some of your info in the first post in this thread is not at all accurate, but on the whole you done a fair job, p.s nickel is under the copper, saves the use of cyanide base copper strike, though for many years now they have been using alkaline copper strike in a heck of a lot of plating shops.

Offline AshimotoK0

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Re: Stripping chrome at Home (and nickel) NON PC .. not for Snowflakes
« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2023, 04:16:39 PM »
Some of your info in the first post in this thread is not at all accurate, but on the whole you done a fair job, p.s nickel is under the copper, saves the use of cyanide base copper strike, though for many years now they have been using alkaline copper strike in a heck of a lot of plating shops.

So please correct me then on the inaccuracies Kev !  The company in the linked video still use cyanide copper strike then acid copper...but I did know about the nickel strike before copper as that's what the DIY copper plating kits use. I think I got the acid concentration wrong though, as it should be 70% strength not 50% but it seemed to work reasonably well at 50%. Gonna try 70% strength sulphuric next though with 2% glycerine like the company in the video clip uses.
“Alright friends, you have seen the heavy groups, now you will see morning maniac music. Believe me, yeah. It’s a new dawn.” Grace Slick, Woodstock '69 .. In the year of the Sandcast.

 

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