Tightening sequence for bar clamps ?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

What is the correct tightening sequence for the handle bar clamps please - looked in my manual not there?

Is it front bolts first then the rear ones?

[Sesman]

That’s a good question, Ted. I just tightened mine as equally as I could trying to maintain an equal gap between the upper and lower clamps.

[Oddjob]

Just do them equally Ted, only the front fork clamps need the front closed up.

[Orcade-Ian]

Now there's a funny thing!

Just decided to tidy up my bar clamps - just one at a time to save other hassles.  There is clearly a dot at the front and that end is definitely thicker - like the front wheel clamps.  Maybe it's just a Yank spec difference - dunno!

Here's a pic of one of mine - I'm going to treat these just like the front wheel - tighten the front one fully then use the rear as a pinch bolt.

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Make up your own minds!

Ian

[Nurse Julie]

Makes sense Ian. I always remember front wheel clamps, handlebar switch gear and handlebar clamps always do up the front first and then the back second so any gap is facing backwards.

[ST1100]

There is clearly a dot at the front and that end is definitely thicker - like the front wheel clamps.

I was about to mention that there supposed to be punch marks, indicating the [forward] position... typical Honda.
Same for bar, clutch/brake armatures and switches (as well as brake & sift lever) having the default ergos marked...

[Lobo]

Appreciate CB750 forks, but guessing the logic carries over…

[Sesman]

My original 77F2 clamps don’t have punch marks…just saying.

[Sesman]

Having written that, if the clamps are stepped then the same logic applicable to the fork clamps must apply.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I had this vision of equal clamping on the handlebars to allow air flow thus preventing water to accumulate & cause rusting.

Theory does not pass the same test for fork clamps where there is likely to be a much greater threat from water.

[K2-K6]

It's common engineering practice to design one side to touch, giving datum surface to clamp geometry and make the hole essentially round to match the spindle once that dimensionis established with first fixture (bars are going to be more varied in tolerancing than wheel component) then the second bolt only has to gently apply friction to stop it moving. Because it touches all the way round, if designed correctly, the torque to achieve clamping is relatively small.

It's very similar to the fork stanchion bore/clamp but with the convenience of being able to split it for assembly.

Both tightened to touching is a different joint, the crank mains being one, that doesn't clamp but tries to produce an accurate bore even though it had to be split for access.

[Sesman]

Like I said…if stepped….

[Orcade-Ian]

My own 400/4 also has stepped (as Sesman calls them) clamps - don't know about any dots because the washers are hiding that area.  My 350/4 has the row of idiot lights like 500 and that unit has no step so would be tightened evenly front and back.  Not sure if 550/400 for other markets are different arrangement and if life is only 1 day long, News at 10 has just finished, so can't be arsed checking!

(IDHTTL)



Ian

[Sesman]

Hey, Ted. Have a look in the Aladdin’s cave at ‘CB550 F1 set up’ manual and you will have your answer. Had a closer look at my clamps and there is indeed a punch mark on each clamp facing forward.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Ill take a peek.