Some Minor Issues to Sort

[Martin6]

I've hopefully got the carbs where they need to be, for the moment!

Rather than add to that topic, I thought a new one is in order!

I have some miscellaneous other minor issues to have a crack at and any words of wisom are very welcome:
- Neutral switch needs checking, remains dimly lit when in gear;
- I have a strange tramping sensation through the bars on some roads at speeds over 30mph. I'm hoping it is wheel balancing, as the red dot is not right on the tyre valve, and there is a 20g wheel weight close to the valve, which isn't where I'd expect it? However it may be front suspension. Standing, front brake on and pumping the bars, it moves up and down and seems damped, but is stiff. Will check which fork oil it has in there. What grade is recommended for a compliant ride?
- Difficult to find neutral, easy when rolling to a stop, but not when stationary;
- May be related; the clutch bite seems quite late in the lever outwards movement, but no clutch slip is evident when i open the throttle. Is this usual?

👍

[Bryanj]

Front forks are not normaly "stiff" Honda originaly used engine oil but later used ATF.
Lot of debate about the dot on tyres but personaly seen them all over the place with no effect, could need wheel truing or balancing, Honda tolerance for true is 3mm side to side and vertically(mot says 4mm) Sounds like neutral switch is failing and the clutch needs adjusting as per manual.
The full Honda workshop manual is on this site for download either in alladins cave or Ashs dropbox

[Erny]

With regards to neutral switch - it can be also some unwanted connection of neutral switch wire to frame (ground). To check that disconnect wire from neutral switch, if control light is still on, look for wire issues, if not it is switch itself.

[Martin6]

Thanks Bryan.

Yes, if the high bite point is not normal, I'll look to adjust the clutch. I have the downloaded manual and have the Haynes (not too impressed with the Haynes though).

I'll also be changing the front tyre, which will be a good time to check how true the wheel is. 3mm seems quite a lot. Looks like the forks may be the problem if they're not usually stiff. Mine are definitely stiff. The previous owner replaced one stanchion, the left, as it was bent. So I'm now suspicious of the right hand one. I'll check that with the wheel off.

[Bryanj]

When checking the wheel for true make sure you can easily see where the weld is as you will always get a "kick" in the rim at that point and drive yourself crazy trying to remove it.
You can easily get them closer than 3mm, that only the max allowed

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I might be way out here but when I had a tramping sensation on my Suzuki 750 GS it was the chain & chain wheels causing the issue. To many wheelies by previous owner.

I could not afford to replace the sprockets & chain so I fitted a new chain only & cured it.

[Martin6]

I might be way out here but when I had a tramping sensation on my Suzuki 750 GS it was the chain & chain wheels causing the issue. To many wheelies by previous owner.

I could not afford to replace the sprockets & chain so I fitted a new chain only & cured it.

Ted, was that felt through the handlebars?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I'm going back 40 odd years but yes it was a really odd sensation like a thrumming that was felt up the frame into the handle bars. It was speed sensitive worst at 50 mph.

I didn't know a much about bikes back then - no internet - but a fellow biker said it sounded like a stretched chain causing the issue.

Checking wheel balance and alignment might be a better starting point.

[Laverdaroo]

Just a thought but how old are your tyres? Sounds front end related snd agree with Ted but if your tyre’s old they do deform and can produce a similar sensation.

When Maxxis first came out the fitments for the VFR’s and other touring bikes had an intermittent vibration that only manifested itself at a certain speed which turned out to be a mismould and all were recalled .
Check your balance is cool and wheel bearings. Any point of contact really, you’ll find the issue

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

You get tyre flat spots on cars that are only used in the summer so has it been stood for ages. I use some cheap wheels to stand the SL on over the winter. It takes a good 40 miles at 50 mph to spin out the flat spots otherwise

[Martin6]

Could be.
Rear is new. Avon RR. I rebuilt that wheel, but checked it again today and all seems true.
Front is about 100 miles old, but has been on 4 years, i could have a flatspot from standing.

[paul G]

Aren't the dots normally the heavy point on the tyre and usually 180 deg from the valve ?

[K2-K6]

Standing, front brake on and pumping the bars, it moves up and down and seems damped, but is stiff. Will check which fork oil it has in there. What grade is recommended for a compliant ride?

- May be related; the clutch bite seems quite late in the lever outwards movement, but no clutch slip is evident when i open the throttle. Is this usual?

👍

Fork oil, many go too heavy with this in my experience, partly promoting some level of hydraulic "locking" in response to pattering Road surface. Effectively tge fork doesn't want to move at the linear rate the road irregularities are kicking the suspension up at and causing a little "bucking" feel to come through the front end.

Reality check though, is to assess current level of existing oil, too high will give less fork response than design intention.

Try using Motul 2.5 grade viscosity fork oil at correct level /quantity to see if it's effective in getting the response you want. It's a very good oil anyway and won't give problem, but some may prefer 5 viscosity.

Healthy clutch engagement is ok fairly far out as it makes sure the clutch fully disengages and promotes no clunk when going to first gear when stationery.
If the clutch is used hard on these,  heating up the clutch pack moves the lift mech thrust away from the operating mech, and you'll feel the bite point move in toward the bars in this case. You do have to get them pretty hot to see that, but it doesn't usually make it slip with this arrangement.

[Martin6]

Aren't the dots normally the heavy point on the tyre and usually 180 deg from the valve ?

Yellow dots, if you have them, are the lightest point on the tyre. To be mounted where the valve is. Red dots signify the flattest point of the tyre. I don't know why, but I always mount them where the valve is, perhaps on the assumption 'flat' = lighter. The odd thing is my front also had a 20g weight at the valve area.

[Martin6]

Standing, front brake on and pumping the bars, it moves up and down and seems damped, but is stiff. Will check which fork oil it has in there. What grade is recommended for a compliant ride?

- May be related; the clutch bite seems quite late in the lever outwards movement, but no clutch slip is evident when i open the throttle. Is this usual?

👍

Fork oil, many go too heavy with this in my experience, partly promoting some level of hydraulic "locking" in response to pattering Road surface. Effectively tge fork doesn't want to move at the linear rate the road irregularities are kicking the suspension up at and causing a little "bucking" feel to come through the front end.

Reality check though, is to assess current level of existing oil, too high will give less fork response than design intention.

Try using Motul 2.5 grade viscosity fork oil at correct level /quantity to see if it's effective in getting the response you want. It's a very good oil anyway and won't give problem, but some may prefer 5 viscosity.

Healthy clutch engagement is ok fairly far out as it makes sure the clutch fully disengages and promotes no clunk when going to first gear when stationery.
If the clutch is used hard on these,  heating up the clutch pack moves the lift mech thrust away from the operating mech, and you'll feel the bite point move in toward the bars in this case. You do have to get them pretty hot to see that, but it doesn't usually make it slip with this arrangement.

👍