[...] It’s standard points ignitionwith new Few brand ( Japanese)points. 22A carbs with standard jetting 100 main, needle in the middle , 38 pilot ( maybe standard is 40 ). I adjusted the screws fro 1.25 to 1.5 turns out today and the idle/ pick up seemed slightly better. Dynamic timing showed it to be about 2 degrees retarded ( 7? degrees) so I’ve slightly adjusted that. The dwells were close but not exactly the same so I can work on the points set up a bit.
You can compare yours to the standard 022A in the updated overview below. Even if the jet needles are one step leaner than standard, I'd leave the carbs alone for now.
As far as the ignition, a few remarks, if you allow me.
Realise that
advancer is a somewhat misleading term.
Retarder would have been better, because the thing is mainly there to facilitate easier starting. Have a look at the advancer below. The yellow mark indicates 5
o BTDC. Easy starting is then guaranteed. But my bike starts just as easy at 8
o BTDC. I do not strive to have it spot on 5
o BTDC. I concentrate on a correct timing at full advance of around 30
o instead, from say 2800 RPM on. Full advance is indicated by the two marks, one blue, one green. They are 3
o apart and I'll come to that next.
I've always used genuine Honda parts and on my bike, they are by TEC (TOYO), but things work just the same with Hitachi parts.
Out of curiosity I once experimented with setting things exactly spot on and
then varied the dwell.
With timing static set at exactly 5
o and a dwell of exactly 49
o (= 0,3mm gap), full advance would be at the
first full advance (blue in the pic) mark, 28,5
o. When I changed the dwell to 46
o (= 0,4mm gap), full advance would be at the
second full advance (green in the pic) mark, 31,5
o. I should add, this test done was on
my bike only and I am sorry to say I have not completed the experiment by repeating this for 2+3. I was quite impressed by the accuracy of Honda parts and even more when I choose the middle: a dwell of 47,5
o (= 0,35mm gap) which not only resulted in a full advance right between the two full advance marks 30
o but also, as a bonus, having all components in the middle of their adjustment range.
Using OEM parts, having everything in the middle of the adjustment range, seems to be a good starting point. With
aftermarket parts, it's anybody's guess. When I helped a friend who had a Daiichi plate and breakers, I did
not arrive at having components in the middle of their adjustment range, when I choose the middle. I'm not saying Daiichi parts are therefore bad, they're are different. In the past I have suggested that Daiichi in the US
must be Chinese imitations of the Daiichi sets we have in Europe which were made in Japan. The reason is that I know quite some riders here, that have satisfactorily results with them. As said: the US market is another story. I'm curious to know how
your breakerpoints will do.
I always have my ignition 2-3
o more advanced which results in a better throttle respons (driveability) but that's up to anyone's liking and it could also be fuel related.
I can recommend to begin simply with a feeler gauge when setting the breakerpoints gap. If you have a dwellmeter, I'd use it. Then you can set the breakerpoints
dynamically and also check the dwell remains constant and does not wander when RPM changes.
Checking the
timing is best done using a strobe, but, I would not attempt to
adjust the timing
dynamically. Plates will move about and it can become a frustrating experience. To avoid the hassle, I check at full advance. Then stop the engine and make the needed adjustment, start engine again and check again at full advance. You may have to stop the engine again for a further adjustment. This has worked for me. Just accept the timing @ idle it will result in.
(Re)setting the gaps comes first, because it is
there, where the timing begins to deviate from the ideal. As a matter of fact: usually just resetting the gaps (dwell) is the only thing you have to do, to arrive at the correct timing again. Makes sense, the plates are well fastened and won't wander. At least not that I have seen.
Your ignition needs to be tuned a bit, but - listening to the engine now - I'm sure it will run beautifully. It's a wonderful bike.
