Rust removers...

[Athame57]

I've been using Hammerite rust remover gel a few years now. I'm wondering if more can be expected from this sort of stuff but it makes expensive territory to experiment on.  Has anyone something out there that they are sure is better, without going into the sort of things you need a space suit or something to use?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

For small items I use Evaporust I leave them to soak in a suitable plastic type container- item needs degreasing first. If it's deep rust I take it out after 12 hours - light brass wire brush the item then back into soak.

Not corrosive to the skin just wash off under the tap then I dip it in thinners or spray with WD40 to stop flash rusting.

For larger items I use the usual Gel type products.

[Spitfire]

I heard about Evaporust on here (Ted) and tried it out, and it worked a treat most impressive.

Cheers

Dennis

[K2-K6]

My son bought this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363998603855 looks comparable to Evaporust product in cost, I had no input in regard to selection.

I've no comparison to the other product here to give valid view in that respect, but seems to work fine for the items he's put through it so far. Mainly tools, many with heavy rusting, successful on all and doesn't appear to flash rust after rinsing.

Seems particularly inert to handle, no real smell signature, water rinse after leaving to soak. The used fluid he left in container and all dissolved particulate etc sunk to the bottom to allow the liquid to be decanted off for re-use.

Difficult to give the comparison asked for, but perfectly viable product from usage so far.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

That is more than half the price of Evaporust so looks pretty good value if it works in a similar way.

Only review on sellers site said 'Useless' but then there are a lot of baseless negative reviews out there.

[JamesH]

Bilthamber Deox-C is a great product.

Bilt Hamber Deox C Concentrated Rust Remover (1000g) https://amzn.eu/d/bndF2MG

[Trigger]

If you can soak the part Citric Acid works well 

[Athame57]

If you can soak the part Citric Acid works well 

So if I squeezed a lemon over a saucer full of rusty nuts & bolts they will come back looking new?

[Arch stanton]

White vinegar.

[Laverdaroo]

Just brick acid. Cheap, costs pence, reusable. Beats evaporust every time and certainly better than citric acid!



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[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Brick Acid is essentially Sulphuric Acid (aka Muriatic acid) so it will be quick but then it will also eat into good steel depending on the contact time.

Amendment:  should read Hydrochloric Acid.

The beauty of Evaporust is it works by only attacking the chemical bond between Iron & Iron Oxide - hence why you get a brown sediment when it has worked - it effectively just makes the rust separate from the good steel - hence the periodic need for a light brushing - on delicate items I use an old tooth brush.

I have left old parts that were beyond recovery in Evaporust for months - it eventually comes out clean but rough where the iron is missing. As the old fluid gets darker I decanter off the sediment and store it in a tin of used fluid. I re-use old fluid several times before it becomes spent. It is safe to wash down the drain under a running tap.

I have found with items such as a long engine mounting bolts that are plated that where the rust has gone through the plating the Evaporust will remove all the iron oxide (aka rust) - As most of the bolt is hidden  (I do not have a plating kit) I coat the bare metal parts using Bluing Solution so I have a passivated repair - wash off and the spray paint silver. (Bluing solution requires very clean grease free steel it works as you brush the item with the solution turning gun metal blue in under two minutes - you must never dip the brush into you bottle - always pour some into a small glass container and load the brush from that)

Bluing is Phosphoric Acid based so I wear eye protection & gloves you dilute the new Bluing solution with water as per the instructions one part solution / 3 parts water iirc.

I have found Vinegar white or brown only good with Copper/Brass - it cleans up old Pennies a treat as well as electrical components. I have never tried Citric Acid but I do use Lemon Juice to clean mould from my Hot Tub cover.

[Matt_Harrington]

As Roo says, its good BUT do it outside and don't leave an open container / bowl of it near your pride and joy - it will rust in no time!
The advantage of Evaporust is it is not caustic and so it you can dip your hand in it - unlike Brick cleaner (Hydrochloric acid). So cleaning the inside of a petrol tank, it is better to use the former rather than the acid!
Oxalic Acid is pretty cheap and works well. You buy it in powder form and mix up as required. I told a mate of mine to try it on a rusty chain he had and he was impressed with the results

[Matt_Harrington]

Ted, its Hydrochloric not Sulphuric....

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

My error you are right its HCL not H2SO4 but still very corrosive.

Well spotted Matt.

Mr Google says
Metals such as aluminum, cast iron, steel, copper, and titanium will suffer rapid attack from HCl at all concentrations and temperatures. Most stainless steel grades will be subject to attack, because their chromium content is not sufficient in forming a protective passive layer.

[Matt_Harrington]

Bilthamber Deox-C is a great product.

Bilt Hamber Deox C Concentrated Rust Remover (1000g) https://amzn.eu/d/bndF2MG

James, I've not tried this but heard good results. What dilution do you use?