500 alternator stator screws - five out of six are solid.

[Seabeowner]

I have the Draper impact above and a Vessel one and use them on JIS and seem fine. Got out many stubborn screws.

[3scs]

If all else fails hammer a multi spline bit in and gently try to undo

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I don't Grahame  that's why I'm not sure what you are saying  is bang up to date can you corroborate your statement?

I'm not sure if you know about the changes in JIS as per the article - unless your tools were made in 2008 it appears that JIS has morphed.
I will use my genuine Honda T bar purchased in around 1966 to put the new JIS screws back in - but are the new JIS screws ISO 8764 compliant rather than the pre 2008 version of JIS?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

So today I have started polishing the Alternator Housing - my right thumb aches like Billy-O  today from yesterdays Impact Driver work out - indirect concussion bruising.

I did 30 mins last night with the little plastic wheels/buffing mops in my drill to get the worst of the oxidation off. Today 30 mins with my coarsest soap followed by 30 mins of medium & 15 minutes of fine soap. Quite pleased with the result - just needs a couple more hours to reach my admittedly low standard. I have some age related marks that I will leave as a sort of Patina effect.

.Alternator housing by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[Oddjob]

Coming on Ted, personally I'd remove those dents, they do nothing for the cover except make it worse looking. Should be easy to do with the abrasive wheels.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

With my luck Ken I'd probably make a hole in casing - either way with my size 11 boots I will probably scuff it some more on my first ride out.

Just looked at the price of the Cover Badge as mine is scuffed all over - £90 excluding clips @ £3.82 each - another reason for not going OTT on the housing.

[Oddjob]

Scuffed can be repaired Ted.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I'll post a photo but scuffed is a slight  understatement - I mean scraped/damaged & pitted.

Flickr is down I'll try later.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

PXL_20230711_232025324 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[heliwilly]

Just thought this might help clarify what Trigger was saying.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwi1ua_38YiAAxUxUqQEHW9WAtEQFnoECDMQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.vesseltools.com%2Fhandtools%2Fscrewdrivers%2Fjis-japanese-industrial-standard&usg=AOvVaw3fqYoxAqbJVcqcs2MKdvzU&opi=89978449

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Yes & No - I agree that our 1970's bikes have JIS screws what I can't make out is why aside from Vessel pretty much most tools marked JIS that I have looked at also have JIS PH3 or JIS PH2 etc markings on them - possibly due to the changes when ISO-8764 came in making them suitable for both applications? Clearly the article in the link shows that not all new later so named JIS tools are suitable.

I assume Vessel is making tools to the original JIS profile that ended in 2008 - hence the relatively high price. I went on to ask myself have Honda made changes to new JIS bolts to reflect ISO-8764.

In the photo below is my tool marked as JIS PH3 - it looks the same by the naked eye to my Honda Special tool I bought back in 1966 era - now well worn.

.PXL_20230712_100614263 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[heliwilly]

The diagrams of the two screwdrivers say it all. Do you want a good fir or a perfect fit? You can make many screwdrivers a workable option. It depends if you want to use the correct tool for the job or one that will do the job.

[Oddjob]

Actually Ted I think it's more to do with PH3 not being good for JIS screws BUT a JIS is perfectly fine in a Phillips screw. Around the house now I find myself using the JIS screwdrivers in preference to a PH screwdriver, they just don't slip as often. I think the marking reflect this, ok for both.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Where can you find sensibly priced screwdrivers that are only JIS not JIS PH marked?

[Oddjob]

Found this description in a JIS advert.

Made out of heavy duty steel. These will be the only set of JIS drivers and bits you will ever need. JIS screws are used by most Japanese manufacturers of motorcycles, snowmobiles, ATV, UTV, 3-Wheelers, PWC'S.

With old, rusty screws that are hard to remove the middle ground will not cut it.

Included in this 7-piece set:
(1) JIS #1 Screwdriver with 75mm shaft - Great for little screws on handlebar switches, electronics, etc.
(1) JIS #2 Screwdriver with 100mm shaft - The most versatile size. Great for all carb screws, etc.
(1) JIS #3 Screwdriver with 150mm shaft - Fits all those large screws found on the engine cases and bodywork.
(1) #2 JIS 1/4" Impact Driver Bit Short 25mm
(1) #2 JIS 1/4" Impact Driver Bit Long 75mm
(1) #3 JIS 1/4" Impact Driver Bit Short 25mm
(1) #3 JIS 1/4" Impact Driver Bit Long 75mm

Most "JIS" advertised screwdrivers sold today are made to a new standard: DIN 5260 which is middleground between Phillips and JIS.

If using the right tool for the job is important to you or if you frequently work with Japanese or JIS screws consider investing in proper JIS screw driver bits that are built to to the correct Japanese Industrial Standards (B 4633).

There are the real JIS and the not-so-real JIS screwdrivers. Remember JIS is a standard so a screwdriver needs to be made to that
exact standard to be considered authentically JIS.

Most JIS advertised screwdrivers sold today are actually conforming to a new standard DIN 5260 which is identical (at the tip) to the newer ISO 8764-1.

Phillips screws by design were created to cam-out.

JIS drivers are re-engineered standards that aim to reduce or eliminate cam-out.

Even though the JIS & Phillips looks very similar they are two different designs and the drivers are not meant to be interchangeable. Using one in the other will lead to frustration and stripped out screws.