My New Project arrives after a 44 year wait!

[Laverda Dave]

Thanks for doing these Ash. Along with everything else about this bike I bet they were knackerd!
I was really pleased with how the horn turned out and it is really loud. Thanks for putting that post in the alladins cave, why buy new when all it takes to keep an old genuine part is a few hours tinkering

[AshimotoK0]

I just remembered Dave that I recovered a non-working C110 horn  for a mate and then a 400 one at the end of last year using the non strip down method using an ignition coil. You basically connect the HT out of a coil so that it earths thought the horn. In the case of an open circuit one, the HT burns through the oxide to a point where you get electrical conduction. Then you connect the 12v and the arcing across the points eventually erodes away all of the corrosion. I have not replated that horn yet but I just did a a check by pressuring the inside after removing the larger adjusting screw and it seems pretty air tight. The next thing to do will be to do the same under water and look for bubbles (or maybe do it under isopropanol) Once air-tight it should be good to re-zinc plate. Well that's the theory anyway.

[Laverda Dave]

I amazed myself Ash when the horn worked after sitting broken in a box for 15+ years and being taken apart and put back together.

I did try the ‘boil in a bag’ method a few years ago that I read somewhere when I was restoring the varnish blue 400/4. This involved dropping the horn in a pan of boiling water for a while and the theory was the heat would dissolve any internal corrosion. It didn’t but it did a good job of making the outside casing go rusty . After that failure I threw it back into the storage box for another day and another method.

Well done for being the first to take one apart AND the top tip of moving the top contact away from the lower contact to make it easier to clean. Another obsolete part saved from the council tip and pressed back into service

[Laverda Dave]

Some more positive progress to report with the Rat bike.

I have finally completed the rebuild of the carbs having got the mounting rail and lifting arms back from vapour blasting. These are now bench synced using a 1mm drill. I have fitted new fuel and overflow pipes and clips. I fitted a new stainless spindle supplied by Max. It appears from the parts book I am missing the clip from No.2 carb that holds the fuel pipe. I’ll probably make one from a piece of stainless to finish the job.

I also received the hubs back from blasting and painting and have fitted new bearings and dust seals. I will be taking these to a local wheel builder tomorrow to have them laced up to the new DID rims with stainless spokes.

I have taken the seat catch apart, cleaned it all up and repainted the body and have also overhauled the brake cylinder fitting a new piston and seal. The front brake calliper has also received similar treatment with a new stainless piston. I noticed I am missing a small, flat piece that is supposed to fit below the master cylinder and is bolted to brake lever pivot, does anyone know what purpose this serves and does anyone have one to spare please?

All the engine cases have been blasted and painted with 2-pack acrylic (silver fox) by R & D Cox in Reading (as used by Mr Millyard), these are now safely stored awaiting the engine build.

I also received a heavy crate from NJ & Trigger containing the rebored barrels with a new set of NOS +50 Honda pistons from Ted. Also included was the refurbished and skimmed cylinder head with new guides and valves after finding one of the originals was bent (how exactly do you bend a valve?). All the exhaust valves were replaced as well and a small chip on the edge of the combustion chamber was welded up.

Next job is to paint strip the fuel tank, that’s going to be fun!

[Johnny4428]

Great work on these parts Dave! These carbs look stunning.

[Bryanj]

You bend a valve if you dont follow the instructions for fitting valve cover

[magpie114]

Carbs are a work of art!


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[Nurse Julie]

Wow, those carbs are stunning Dave 😎😎😎😎

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

On the subject of bench synching I tried something Ken sort of put in my head - I will not know if it works until I start the 500 up in a couple of months.

Instead of using a 1mm drill shaft as I did on the 400 I've gone for the zero option. As soon as I detected a lifting of the first slider I locked it off and moved onto carbs 2,3 &4. Effectively I was aiming for a hairs width of movement - then using the main throttle stop to give me a 1mm gap. My thinking is that the smaller the gap the smaller the potential error. Plenty of thread on the main throttle idle stop screw to lift the sliders to the 1 mm point. It might of course not maintain the slider gaps. If it's a disaster then it will need doing properly with a synch gauge.

[Bryanj]

Ted, your way is fine, just lift the slides with the tickover screw and use the drill shank to see if they have all moved the same

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Thanks Bryan at the moment the 1 mm gap has been maintained.
I'm minded to use some decent synch  gauges as well.

[davidcumbria]

Carbs are the best I’ve seen.👏👏👏

Did you do the Bzp yourself or if not where was it done?

Stunning mate👍

[Rozabikes Tim]

Carbs are the best I’ve seen.👏👏👏

Did you do the Bzp yourself or if not where was it done?

Stunning mate👍

Dare I say it Ken would be proud of you and that bling!

[Laverda Dave]

Carbs are the best I’ve seen.👏👏👏

Did you do the Bzp yourself or if not where was it done?

Stunning mate👍

Dare I say it Ken would be proud of you and that bling!

😁 I hope so Tim. It was Ken who put me onto those wizz-bang polishing wheels I used on the bowls. Thanks for the tip Ken👍.

[Laverda Dave]

Carbs are the best I’ve seen.👏👏👏

Did you do the Bzp yourself or if not where was it done?

Stunning mate👍

My old mate Gary plated everything at Hayes Electroplating Dave. He's a true master and perfectionist. Such a shame he can no longer chrome plate, he was absolutely awesome at that. Mr Bling I call him.