Bike delivered....commissioning started

[matpp]

At long last, bike was delivered yesterday....through Holland for some reason hence 9% import VAT......thankfully paid by Iconic auctions .
Up close and personal, all appears as per photos so pleased with that, just dust, cobwebs and a small amount of surface rust on some of the chrome nuts/bolts easily removed with chrome cleaner. Took me a few hours to understand how the partially seized seat lock works 🤦‍♂️
Commissioning started, oil, filters, plugs, master cylinder and battery.
Two concerns: the clutch does not release when engaged in 1st gear (bike hasn't been started yet after some time in storage) and the forks make a clunking sound when pumped up and down.
Any advice on the above concerns from the well versed CB750 aficionados out there?

[taysidedragon]

Clutches will stick if left for a long time. You may be able to jar it free when the engine is running, if not you'll probably have to open up the clutch to separate the plates and check them while you're in there.

Clunky forks are often a sign of low fork oil, or no oil at all. Could also be a sign of wear or incorrect assembly. No way of knowing without seeing them.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I see two alternatives regarding the clutch either remove the unit & manually seperate the plates - that way you can   check them for condition. I did this on a CB250 Super Dream that had been standing for a couple of years,

My Yamaha XJ900 clutch would stick every winter to release relatively short term clutch stick I would run the engine with the rear wheel off the ground on the centre stand - place it in second or third gear then whilst holding in the clutch lever I would apply the rear brake whilst maintaining  engine revs. Sometimes it would unstick without the need for  braking just the load of turning the wheel would make the clutch release.

Knowing what I now know I would go for the first option to avoid any possibility however remote  of damage to the clutch housing - your choice.

[Johnwebley]

As Ted said

Run the bike in 3rd,rear wheel off the ground,

Open and close the throttle with the clutch pulled in

Should work,

Put it into 1st at tick over,

Go up the box,and it should free

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[matpp]

Thanks for the advice.....I'll keep you posted 🤞

As the bike hasn't been run for some time, when changing the oil and filter, would it be wise to drop some oil into the tappet adjusting caps to lubricate the top end before starting?

I entend to remove the fuel tank to give it a good clean but when removing the fuel strainer cup, I found it half full of tiny copper coloured particles......weird, any ideas? 

[Johnwebley]

Thanks for the advice.....I'll keep you posted

As the bike hasn't been run for some time, when changing the oil and filter, would it be wise to drop some oil into the tappet adjusting caps to lubricate the top end before starting?

I entend to remove the fuel tank to give it a good clean but when removing the fuel strainer cup, I found it half full of tiny copper coloured particles......weird, any ideas? 

I suggest you remove the plugs,


Run it on the starter to pump oil around

Make sure the oil light goes out,


Debris in the filter bowl is fairly normal for old little used bikes

Should be OK

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[K2-K6]

 
  "As the bike hasn't been run for some time, when changing the oil and filter, would it be wise to drop some oil into the tappet adjusting caps to lubricate the top end before starting?"

Yes, put 1/2 litre in each side of the cam cover, it'll drain down to the sump and help both lubricate cam plus the oil pump return side (separate from pressure side) will pick it up to pump it into the oil tank.  As long as the total fill is correct quantity then it'll all be in the oil tank as it starts to flow round the whole oil system.

It should feed the gearbox from that side of pump too, getting circulation everywhere to start with.

[K2-K6]

Also, if you fill the oil, then crank it with oil filter housing etc NOT installed, you'll see straight away if its pumping oil or not.

All oil to pressure side has to go directly into filter housing first, from there to distribution around engine.  Turn it until you see supply arrives, then install filter and housing and it'll then take the shortest time to get it fully into oil galleries.