Keihin carb fuel pipe fix

[nairb]

Hello, Just managed to pull the Brass fuel pipe connector out of the Keihin carb.  See pic.
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Does "super glue" work to hold these things back in.  Not sure if "soldering" would work.

Ta
Nairb

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

If it's just a fuel vent pipe I would use a smear of Hondabond.
If it's the main fuel  pipe an epoxy resin like JB weld?

[Oddjob]

The originals are soldered, so a resolder should be fine. I’ve cleaned a few of those down to bare metal and when you do it’s easy to see the soldered joint

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Does that mean heating up the carb body Ken or can you just tin the brass part then warm it so it drops into the carb body?

Sounds quite a skilled fix if the solder has to bond fully to the alloy body.

[Oddjob]

No that part is part of the fuel banjo Ted, in which case just remove the orings and heat the entire banjo up off the carbs. Tbh it looks like the same part as the 500/550 carb banjos so if it fails I have a spare lying around

[Bryanj]

What bike is that carb off?

[nairb]

These carbs are off a cl450k5.  I had to change the fuel lines to more resilient E10 proof fuel lines,

There does not seem to be any sign of soldering, either on the carb or the brass? fitment.  It looks like nothing except a push fit.  Is there a slight taper in the carb body?.

I would prefer to solder the thing back in, but don't want to wreak the carb body.  I only have a "hobby" soldering iron.
I could heat up the brass fitment to be very hot and push it into the carb and apply flux & solder.

Some adhesive does seem the safest route.

The brass? bit
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[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

JB weld looks the safest route it's petrol resistant - if you put a small bottle brush through the brass connector first or simiar inside with a suitable smear of JB weld any excess can be easily removed before it sets.

I've used JB in the past for small  repairs & found it excellent - not used it on carbs though. Someone here will know how they were originally fitted - Interferance fit perhaps?

[K2-K6]

If you want to try a glue type solution, this https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/fillers-and-preparation/isopon-metal-fix-200ml-679110.html would be the one I'd suggest.

A smear around periphery of stub, then squeeze securely into carb body, leave 48 hrs to set.

If there's solder on it definitely, it would seem to me that the brass has been "tinned" then the brass heated to melt the solder in situ, but not the carb body. I don't think the solder would stick (in conventional sense) to the zinc type material, more an advanced shim/packer to retain it's mechanical position, hence it pulling out with the fuel pipe. An excellent fit but not soldered as such.

This would be similar in application to using a bond type with epoxy if that's true.

[Oddjob]

Sorry my mistake, I thought it looked like the ones off the CB500/550 carbs which are soldered to a sort of drum which joins 2 carbs together, that's what you get for looking at pictures on a phone. Now I'm home it looks like just a push in fit TBH.