400/4 Garaged over the winter.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I'm certainly no expert or authority so take my observations as anecdotal at best
Carb synch if everything else is correct i.e. timing, mixture, carbs free of any issues, no intake air leaks, no throttle return bindings.

[K2-K6]

Going up hill in top gear may offer the most challenging task to the toque available on these.

They just don't make much of of it and sixth is effectively "overdrive" and may not be possible.  You have to ring it out in fith to play it properly, dont hold back on this as it can be far more compromised trying to run lower rpm.
Essentially, if it can't pull sixth to let it gain rpm, then you get the carb slides wide open at too low an rpm, then the carb venturi vacuum is below expected and results in weak mixture. Detonation in this circumstance is a very real possibility and will,cause damage to combustion chamber.
Bryan is absolutely right, revs just don't hurt them, they are fine to spin and really need it.

[ComfySofa]

Righty...so sounds normal...although im 1 down 4 up....i will say that when i dipped into the 9k area it did seem more eager...just feels....tight, but then its just been rebuilt...as for the carbs they have been balanced but i will check for airleaks and what not....roo did ssay to me that the tappets being out can also affect power (and i know one side it still tappy, as it were).

Thanks for all the replies...always a learning process but just want to be sure (however it runs) is the way it should..!

[taysidedragon]

How many miles have you done since the rebuild? The engine might need running in, it will certainly loosen up a bit in the first 250-500 miles if you have new bearings, pistons, etc.
The high idle speed probably just needs adjusting down with the large idle control screw. It will only need adjusting a couple of times as the engine loosens up, should be stable after that if everything else is kept in spec.

[ComfySofa]

Hi there...probably a couple of hundred now...totall forgot about the idle screw (probably could have done that while i was out)

Bryan did say about 500 for the oil change...

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Good shout about the main  idle screw - I wrongly assumed that was your first port of call.

[ComfySofa]

Nope - that'll be me being an idiot!

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

If were honest most of us have sometimes missed the obvious - not everyone has the courage to own up to a senior moment.

Just hope it does the trick.

[K2-K6]

FWIW, I store 5 motorcycles (2 with carbs) and 3 cars (1 with carbs) for up to 7 months.  They sit in garages (in different locations) with the batteries disconnected (no trickle chargers).  Before storage I put StaBil in each fuel tank per the StaBil directions and then run them for 10 miles or thereabouts. After the storage period I connect the battery and hit the starter (use choke as normal for carbed engines).  They all start as if they had been running yesterday.  I've been doing that for nearly 15 years now.  I'm sure other brand fuel stabilizers work but StaBil is the only brand I have ever used.

Re my not using trickle/smart battery chargers: the vehicles are unattended during storage with no one living on the premises.  Years ago I had a battery explode due to a charger malfunctioning so I don't trust chargers that are unmonitored for months.  I've never had an instance of a disconnected/reconnected battery failing to spin the starter normally after the storage period.

Went looking for interesting views on this product...found https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/143437-stabil-whats-really.html with reasonable in depth discussion at the thread ending. 
I've not used it, but does appear to get positive appreciation when people dose and evaluate.

Further consideration of this product. They specifically don't list in primary ingredients the "active" component, ordinarily saying trade confidential or similar.
General reading shows that it uses naphtha as solvent carrier, with approximately 5% special component. Reading into the precautions for medical response on msds data shows Ethylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether as that specialist ingredient. 

Not suggesting to manufacture your own, unless you want to  , but to pass the initial test of absolute bullocks into realistic feasible explanation of how its claimed to work.

Useful description here of that component https://www.atamanchemicals.com/ethylene-glycol-monobutyl-ether_u26765/ which looks very plausible as opposed to pure snake oil status.

It's attributes, along with the logical description some of the more informed contributors place do appear to support a valid product that will likely stand empirical scrutiny.

Anyone else thinking to try it in cleaning gummed carburettor components?  In raw form it may be worth giving something like jets a soak to gauge effectiveness.

[ST1100]

FWIW, I store 5 motorcycles (2 with carbs) and 3 cars (1 with carbs) for up to 7 months.  They sit in garages (in different locations) with the batteries disconnected (no trickle chargers).  Before storage I put StaBil in each fuel tank per the StaBil directions and then run them for 10 miles or thereabouts. After the storage period I connect the battery and hit the starter (use choke as normal for carbed engines).  They all start as if they had been running yesterday.  I've been doing that for nearly 15 years now.  I'm sure other brand fuel stabilizers work but StaBil is the only brand I have ever used.

A topic debated religiously and ad nauseam in pretty much every ICE related forums... 
Some entertaining test:

https://youtu.be/chsGBhB5g7o?si=tdx4goLdhElDzQte

I'm more on the premium (hence low ethanol) fuel group, car and motorcycle...

Re my not using trickle/smart battery chargers: the vehicles are unattended during storage with no one living on the premises.  Years ago I had a battery explode due to a charger malfunctioning so I don't trust chargers that are unmonitored for months.  I've never had an instance of a disconnected/reconnected battery failing to spin the starter normally after the storage period.

Which is why I turned away from conventional starter batteries (besides that their quality decreased massively in the past few years...)
LiPoFE4 won't suffer permanent chemical death when discharged, attach a designated lithium-charger and they're fully revived in like 45 minutes...
(plus they're offering a lot more punch, hence cleaner spark...)

[ComfySofa]

If were honest most of us have sometimes missed the obvious - not everyone has the courage to own up to a senior moment.

Just hope it does the trick.

Ive got no problem with that...! my head is pre-programmed for throttle body setup....ie you cant adjust anything unless its plugged into an ODB connection with a laptop on the end...so no, didnt even think about it...more than happy to admit im in the wrong....always learning stuff everyday....been in IT for 25 years and i still get schooled by guys 20 years younger than me and more...even my own kids..!

[SteveD CB500K0]

....been in IT for 25 years and i still get schooled by guys 20 years younger than me and more...even my own kids..!

Me too.

They may be able to sort out why my iPhone doesn’t ring when somebody calls me via WhatsApp (my daughter sorted that out), but could they write an SQL Query?

She would say “ we don’t have to as there are IT nerds who do that stuff. “


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TrickyMicky]

Whilst I fully appreciate all the 'plus' points of modern electrickery, I find that it has led to a situation whereby no encouragement is made to younger people to stimulate their brains, just accepting that whatever the machine/computer/diagnostic system displays.  About 3 years ago, a friend nearby took his diesel transit to the main dealer as it was running like a stuffed pig. The technician duly plugged in the necessary equipment, and even though the van was shaking like a jelly when idling, the verdict was "No Fault Found", and they were ready to send him on his way. Cannot remember what the problem was, but it was rectified by one of the more senior members of the engineering staff.

[Mikep328]

FWIW re stabilizer...my understanding is that it is primarily a light oil and its purpose is NOT to mix with the fuel as an additive, per se, but to essentially float to the top of the fuel in the tank, carb float bowls, etc and "insulate it" from the air.  With no contact with air, the fuel will essentially remain "as new," at least for quite a long time.  Not being a chemist, I certainly can't verify the accuracy of that functional description but I do have a Norton Commando that sat untouched for nearly two years with E10 fuel/stabilizer in the (fiberglass!) tank and the bike started with no trouble.  I do know of a guy that claims he uses home heating oil as "stabilizer" and says it works fine.  Certainly cheaper...

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I don't buy the floats on top theory - I think like 2T oil it forms a eutectic mixture of some sort then chemically resists the degradation using Snake Oil chemistry.