Best workshop manual cb750

[Shetland Biker]

Hey guys,  im wondering what you think is the best workshop manual,  i am a bit of a bike newbie. but i am ok with this sort of things.  ive used hayes manuals before on cars and i dont actually think they are that good.  any hints or tips would be great,  its the cb750 maybe 1978 but not too sure until i get the bike picked up later this month

[AshimotoK0]

You will find Genuine and Haynes manuals here in my dropbox links. a combination of all of them is what I used.

HONDA CB750 SOHC FOUR

MEGA CB750K /F PARTS MANUALS SHOP MANUALS VJMC ARTICLES ETC ETC … WELL WORTH DOWNLOADING. MASSIVE DOWLOAD THOUGH!!

NOTE : This starts with the Service manual and the Parts lists are later on in the download beginning with later model Parts list K3->K5 and then K0->K2 . Please  PM me for the very early  Sandcast 4/69 Parts Manual link as it is not included in the links on here.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/anpzqn2r55f1o9k/CB750%20Mega%20Parts%20Service%20and%20More.pdf?dl=0

CB750 K0-.K8, F SHOP MANUAL

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nxt8v8xcvnvnpz0/Honda%20CB750%20SOHC%20K0-K8%20F1-F3%20Shop%20Manual.pdf?dl=0

CB750K Haynes Manual

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zxg25whp5gyr97a/CB750_HNS_Shop_Man.pdf?dl=0

CB750 F2-3 Parts Manual

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/l5oaiythibeg7dm/AAAwXNQKWFIHdDJmfRVBGRs8a?dl=0

CB750F1 PARTS MANUAL

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hwpqt3rod8m01am/Honda%20CB750%20Four%20CB%20750%20F1%20Illustrated%20Parts%20List%20Diagram%20Manual.pdf?dl=0


CB750 SERVICE BULLETINS -- Collected over many years by Bryan Jones ... MASSIVE THANKS BRYAN

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xkkwyl5lteti976/CB750%20Service%20Bulletins.pdf?dl=0

CB750K7 Dealer Setup instructions ..courtest AndyD

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7dt3z3pd5u37snh/CB750%20setup.pdf?dl=0

CB750 Sandcast Restorers Reference

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s391rvkoylest0z/AAAhoNiIXbv8P_zxRNGS1Hvqa?dl=0


CB750K6
https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/Catalog/Honda/0750_CB750K6_Microfiches_Honda/parts_list_0750_CB750K6.html
CB750K7 K8
https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/Catalog/Honda/0750_CB750K7_K8_Microfiches_Honda/parts_list_0750_CB750K7_K8.html
CB750F2 F3



Archive of Greenbushacres site with CB750 Service Bulletins etc.

https://web.archive.org/web/20150904205939/http://greenbushacres.ca/Motorcycles/Technical/Technical.html


CB750 HISTORY AND SPECS

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bt8gpfiu2h3n2kq/Honda%20CB750%20CB%20750%20SOHC4%20History%20%26%20Specifications.pdf?dl=0


CR750 Parts List

https://www.dropbox.com/s/w128vp6hqpxgpyr/HondaCR750partslist.pdf?dl=0
CB750 1970 Test MCM

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4zwa2q1lpk3s63r/CB750%201970%20UK%20report.pdf?dl=0

[Jan B]

This fourum acts as a shop manual as well. And a very good one!

[Martin6]

You will find Genuine and Haynes manuals here in my dropbox links. a combination of all of them is what I used.

HONDA CB750 SOHC FOUR

...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/w128vp6hqpxgpyr/HondaCR750partslist.pdf?dl=0
CB750 1970 Test MCM

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4zwa2q1lpk3s63r/CB750%201970%20UK%20report.pdf?dl=0...

Thanks for reminding us of those links. That old MCM road test was interesting, and helpful. Since my cylinder head and carbs rebuild, I've been riding my K6 (in our recent pretty  cold weather) and finding it a bit rough running when cold, for at least the first half mile or so. Something they commented on in the report. I've also needed choke to re-start, after it has stood for half an hour, or so. I guess part of the same issue.

I also sensed some bar wobble when leaned over, coming out of bends and coming on the throttle. Seems like that's what they comment on in the report, too. Wish I'd read this before I jacked the front up, to check everything is tight, without play  .

Can't comment on the 125mph claim (chest on the tank). However, I have found, following the rebuild, when i repeated the test I did pre-rebuild, I was 10mph faster at the marker point 

Not sure I agree with their view of the front brake performance, but 50 years has seen impressive development by manufacturers on that score.

An interesting read. Thanks. 👍

[Oddjob]

Personally I'd say most of the problems were in fact the rear tyre grip not the acceleration in the wet or the rear brake grabbing. The standard tyres were ok in the dry but an absolute nightmare in any damp or wet conditions.

The dry sump was a poor idea, giving a notchy and loud gearchange, the main reason I didn't like the 750 over the 500 which has a gear change like a knife through butter.

[Martin6]

I don't notice any issue with the gear change. Better than my modern BMW boxer. Probably not a high benchmark 

It's definitely the front wheel and only on bigger lean angles at speed. I have refurbished the front shocks, including replacing a bent stanchion, plus new steering bearings. I have Hagons on the rear, which are a huge improvement and modern Avons front and rear, feel pretty good. Despite less squat than with the previous rear shocks, I think the front : rear weight balance is probably causing a slightly too light front wheel on acceleration.

[K2-K6]

The dry sump was a poor idea, giving a notchy and loud gearchange, the main reason I didn't like the 750 over the 500 which has a gear change like a knife through butter.

The dry sump has absolutely nothing to do with how the gearbox runs and works. Lubrication is even pushed through it via takeoff from return /scavenge side of pump.

The two engine, although they may superficially look similar in layout, are very, very different in overall design.

The smaller engine uses more reduction going into transmission, runs hyvo chain (consequently low oscillation space on input route from centrifugal characteristic , even when chain is knackered) with gearbox running at lower speed and needing less final drive reduction.

The 750 has no mitigation for its primary drive chain (slack is slack on this one) larger clutch inertia on the end of that chain in conflict with crankshaft to effectively have a more nuanced remote flywheel effect. Gears have reduction ratio on exit of box to drive sprocket and still need fairly large rear sprocket to complete drive train. If there's any final drive compromise on 750 chain, lubrication, adjustment, tight spots etc it'll play havoc with gear change quality.  The change is quite "industrial" in quality, but works well with all components finely fettled.

Dry sump on any engine is all about getting oil away from spinning crankshaft and ensuring completely reliable supply side to lubrication, thats all.

Honda learnt a lot between these two design, the 750 relatively crude and with excess weight etc (they didn't develop or repeat this design ) the 500 was logical in moving to hyvo chain for refinement and with lighter components. The dry sump "effect" is done on these by making the sump deeper to keep the oil out of the way of other components, essentially followed by many other four stroke engine design even today.

The 400 shows probably a little more of this design concept in having that drop down sump with all the exhaust pipes routed to one side of it, this now seen in many production engines.

[Spitfire]

The genuine one as the main reference and the others to fill in, but this and the US site for starters when you have a problem.

Cheers

Dennis

[Oddjob]

Whatever the cause Nigel that really loud thunk as it went into first gear is pretty awful. Imagine sitting at the lights in the 70s, people are admiring you from the cars around you, you smile and nod and generally bask in the glow of having a really nice bike, then you select first and everyone looks away, embarrassed for you, what a clunker they are thinking, whereas the 500 just slides into gear next to you and smiles the smile of knowing he or she has the better bike.

[Martin6]

No one is looking, they never were. We may hope they are, but they're really not. Nowadays their phones are much more interesting. 

[Oddjob]

I did say back in the 70s, no phones then so everyone tended to look around at lights