Tyre Changing Jigs

[AshimotoK0]

Anyone used one of the cheapo sub £100 tyre changers/bead breakers that are around now. or recommend anything sub £200?

I have loads of tyres to fit plus I need to remove the new tyres from my CB250 RS wheels (alloy rims) , re-plate the spokes and then refit the tyres which will cost me at least £50 at the very limited number of bike shops in this area that are capable of fitting motorbike tyres.

[Bryanj]

Put some links up Ash and i will comment from engine drivers point of view.
We are off to deepest cornwall for 2 weeks tomorrow so net access limited to when in cottage so patchy answers

[AshimotoK0]

Put some links up Ash and i will comment from engine drivers point of view.
We are off to deepest cornwall for 2 weeks tomorrow so net access limited to when in cottage so patchy answers

https://www.motea.uk/motorcycle-tyre-changer-12-21-set-with-wheel-balancer-constands-md4k-a095200-0?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA44OtBhAOEiwAj4gpOa4Z1k5wlWFHbvcrbDzP-RUSVmpNf9n6jyxcTm3Dbg7lBbZUMzHxABoCCqgQAvD_BwE

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126071821955

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=motorcycle+tyre+changer&_sacat=0&_sop=15

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1412652767?iid=265131085204#UserReviews

[K2-K6]

Last link looks competent Ash, they've even got the push "tang" on the right way round for photo, unlike first link  that's for beed breaking.

I learnt years ago from owner of Greenford tyres, and a friend who worked there too.

Putting them on, concentrate on getting the beed into the wheel well as you go round the tyre putting it on, else you'll never get over the frustration. 

Also, use silicone grease (they use it for mould release agent in manufacture, silicone that is) put it on with your fingers, both up inside the back of beed within tyre cavity, and the outside you can see....literally just the finest coating you can rub on it to give a sheen with no excess. They'll go on without any levers at all done correctly. 

Tubed type, stand tyre vertically, place rim into tyre at ground, push hard and it'll just pull over the top beed to get that done. Then push the open been over the valve hole to expose it, push tube valve in and screw on nut to prevent it sliding back out, just the first few threads only. Now pull the loose beed back over the valve area to let you push tube in all way round.
Then push valve stem into tyre (nut will stop it) and start beed off there with tube out of way....Work round beed until you meet opposite valve location to finish.  I just use my knees to hold that beed into the wheel well as you work around, you can usually get the rest on with bicycle size levers like this.

[Lobo]

Just out of curiosity Nigel, what’s the largest tyre you’d tackle given you make it sound so easy? I seem to remember (just) managing my 400F, but would baulk at the rear wheel of a ‘750.

Maybe the fault was my penchant for Johnson’s Baby Talc versus silicon grease…?

[AshimotoK0]

I did manage to put my CB500K0 tyres on last year manually (with Ben Powell on here helping me too) , without using any levers but it was a real struggle. I am looking for a rig which will take all of the huffing and puffing out of the task. The 250 RS has alloy rims too, which is a new one for me. We did try the ty-wrap method advocated on Youtube but it didn't really work for us.
The tyres are all on my bigger bikes now, so the biggest I need to do will be 350-18's. All of my rims are genuine old school DID (i.e no horrid side scripting)  , so I can't afford to damage them

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

My tyre fitting days ended several decades ago respect to those who can do their own.

[Bryanj]

From the pics all the ebay links are just bead breakers and a stand so you dont hane to grovvle on floor.
The first, most expensive one, looks to have the jaws to fit the tyre as well, i would ask to see instructions on use before buying, the expensive looks like it has a ballancing stand as well, kawasaki did very good plastic rim protectors, similar to ebay item 385762216748 but sturdier.
Hope that helps mate

[Laverda Dave]

I had to use a hacksaw a couple of weeks ago to get the 30 year old tyres off the rat bike and that was hard work as the tyre closes in on the blade the deeper the cut. I wouldn't even consider putting a tyre on these days, I used to put my speedway bike tyres on but they were pliable.

[AshimotoK0]

My tyre fitting days ended several decades ago respect to those who can do their own.

I have my 28 year old muscle man Ben Powell to assist.

[ST1100]

The Rabaconda set is praised by touring riders...

https://de.rabaconda.com/products/street-bike-tire-changer

dunno if it works well with spoke wheels though...

(got me a pneumatic tire machine + the adapters for MC wheels... 2x ST1100, 1x NT700, 1x ER-5 + the rides of a befriended couple ST1300, NC750, a 70ies Z750, and the Burgman of the "in-law" dad... but I'll have to see how well it'll work with the CB500/4 wheels in the future...)

[Spitfire]

After pinching a tube years ago I resorted to using my heels to put tyres on and it worked fine, dancing around the wheel, or using my hands with an old fashioned round bin as a stand.
However last year putting new tyres on my 750 I failed, the back tyre was fine but I had to take my front wheel to a bike shop I just could not do it anymore.
Time catches up with us all.

Cheers

Dennis

[Bryanj]

It aint catching up mate its galloping past, i did 2 sets of 500 wheels in a day 2 years ago, never again

[K2-K6]

Just out of curiosity Nigel, what’s the largest tyre you’d tackle given you make it sound so easy? I seem to remember (just) managing my 400F, but would baulk at the rear wheel of a ‘750.

Maybe the fault was my penchant for Johnson’s Baby Talc versus silicon grease…?

All sizes, though I've owned only up to 180x17 largest rear size. I too found it particularly difficult prior to lucid instruction all those years ago, but with that and logical approach, it's not so much a problem task.

It's not for everyone certainly. It is though, emphatically, mind (and technique) over muscle to work around them. The lubrication of back side of beed, particularly on final face of fitment really makes a difference. 
A bike wheel you need to support the rim/spokes such that it doesn't touch the surface below with the tyre wall already fitted, this helps with space to work the front side as you go round with it moving the fitted wall away from work site. the bespoke rigs do this also.
If you wanted to make simple implement, then four 4X2 blocks fixed to a sheet of ply in a circle orientation would do it. Put first side on by hand with tyre standing up, then lay wheel down on blocks, start the beed on by hand then kneel on that part at approx 7 and 5 o'clock position to hold the beed down into wheel well. This is the most important bit, that placement of the beed you're working on fully into the wheel well as it gives all the clearance needed to get the opposite side of beed over by working with reasonable leverage......remember that backside beed lubricant ? This it where it really matters. They usually go on with ease now.
If you make the plywood jig, it has the big advantage of staying still with you and or any helper standing on it to not chase the whole lot around a room, or garden 

[Laverda Dave]

It aint catching up mate its galloping past, i did 2 sets of 500 wheels in a day 2 years ago, never again

TWO sets of wheels in ONE day !!!  If tyre changing becomes an Olympic sport Bryan you need to enter, you'd win gold 🥇