LED lights

[K2-K6]

Unsure how you've connected the "heater" supply and if that's to a switched supply post ignition switch,  Martin6 ?

If so, it's better long term with direct from battery, via fuse, then to a dedicated relay to handle heater element load through that route. Then just the relay is toggled from your existing loom supply and doesn't have to take that load. It doesn't obviously alter the demand, but avoids pushing additional loading through the ignition switch and it's contact.

Obviously ignore this if already provision has been made 

I'd be a little nervous about getting the ignition switch drop out at an inconvenient time and leaving you vulnerable in traffic if all the load is through that switch.

I've driven a car that had auxiliary lights just wired piggyback into existing circuit (no relay etc) that went at at an interesting  time. The load had  overrheated  the copper contacts within the switch and melted the plastic mechanical component holding the copper tracks into their contact to make the circuit.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I retro fitted some DTRL lights on. BMW I used the ignition circuit to power a relay to operate the lights with the added complication of a dimming relay for nigh time. Ended up having to use two relays as the dimming unit had a low current load threshold.

[Martin6]

The heated jacket doesn't touch the ignition switch. It has its own fused supply direct to and from the battery terminals. May just have been a coincidence it failed as I put the jacket plug in the socket. I don't generally believe  I coincidences! Wonder if the extra load causes a spike through the alternator / regulator. But, off topic.

[rmii]

Hello and happy Friday! Not sure if still relevant, but I like the looks of the original headlight, and I like LED bulbs For my car and bike I buy everything from https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk

For the bike specifically: H4 warm white 3000k

[Pauarc]

I use a charge state light so you can see state of charge when you riding bike also when bike is not running it flashes like a alarm

[Pauarc]

This is what it looks like

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I use a charge state light so you can see state of charge when you riding bike also when bike is not running it flashes like a alarm

Presumably the diode is switched on at a threshold voltage.

[Pauarc]

Yes you can see state of change

[Skoti]

This is what it looks like

Those are also popular on 1970's British bikes, they fit nicely into the headlamp shell and are not obtrusive.


I fitted a compact Daytona volt meter for more info.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GQUC6TZKV9SkJBCh9   

[DomP]

Hi Dom,

the led bulbs I bought from from https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/12-volt-collection are a direct replacement for your original bulbs.

They aint cheap but 'plug and play' and no need for any wiring loom mods.

I was actually meaning complete new indicators etc as mine are in no fit usable state an as I'm building a cafe racer type mongrel so would be looking for discreet operations.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

If you don't want to fit the plastic replacements there are quite a few aftermarket stubby LED type indicators on eBay including some that look as if they will fix  to rear plates or mudguards.

[DomP]

If you don't want to fit the plastic replacements there are quite a few aftermarket stubby LED type indicators on eBay including some that look as if they will fix  to rear plates or mudguards.

Presumably I'm going to need resistors for every light with the original electrics unless I do dig deep and get an m.unit, very tempting having spoken to Roo about his

[taysidedragon]

If you don't want to fit the plastic replacements there are quite a few aftermarket stubby LED type indicators on eBay including some that look as if they will fix  to rear plates or mudguards.

Presumably I'm going to need resistors for every light with the original electrics unless I do dig deep and get an m.unit, very tempting having spoken to Roo about his

You only need resistors for LED indicators if you use the original type indicator relay. You can fit LED indicator bulbs and a replacement relay which works with LED. All other bulbs on the bike can just be replaced with LED bulbs.

[Skoti]

If you don't want to fit the plastic replacements there are quite a few aftermarket stubby LED type indicators on eBay including some that look as if they will fix  to rear plates or mudguards.

Presumably I'm going to need resistors for every light with the original electrics unless I do dig deep and get an m.unit, very tempting having spoken to Roo about his

There you go Dom, LED indicator flasher unit available on that same link that I posted earlier along with suitable LED bulbs for your bike..

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/12v-electronic-indicator-flasher-relay-classic-car-with-oe-click-x-l-p-2-3-pin

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

You can buy decent electronic flasher units whose flash rate is independent of the current load - a straight replacement for the original unit that has three terminals. Quite a few sellers such as the classic led  specialists sell them.