Engine rebuild Parts list

[Bryanj]

At least thats only 2 different case codes to look up, Preston is a bit too far extra to come andcmeasure if for you sorry

[davidcumbria]

The difference in shell thickness from one colour to the next is very little and Plastigauge results are not 100% accurate or easy to interpret. If in any doubt go thicker up the colour scale and run in carefully is my advice. If you need a lot of shells cheapest route is  to import from impex in Japan.

[Dolomite_]

Ive tried to figure it out and looked through other posts. But how do you work out the shells needed from the crankcase codes?

Would these be the ones to use for the new crankshaft?

[Laverda Dave]

You need to look at the letter & number combination that is on the edge of the crank webs. These will give you the shell colour to use on a particular journal. They are not stamped on the webs but are printed and are very hard to see. Best way is to wipe the web in petrol as that highlights them.
In my case the web codes were 2, 2A, 2A, 1A, 1A. When you combine these with the codes stamped on the cases AABBA and cross reference with the bearing code table this will give you the shell colour you require for each bearing journal. You can therefore install a second hand crank in your original cases providing you read the crank webs codes correctly. As I said these codes can be almost impossible to see but they are there you just have to use petrol and move the crank around in the light and you will see them.
Do you have a Haynes manual, the bearing code reference chart is in there.

[Dolomite_]

Yeah, I've got the Haynes manual and I've also been using the shop manual pfd. I'll try the petrol trick with the new crank. When it arrives. But good to know its hopefully just a case of getting all the codes and working it out.

[Laverda Dave]

Ash has come to your rescue,. Go to Ash's Dropbox on the top menu bar and you will find the Honda shop manual for the CB350/400. It contains ALL the information you need to rebuild your bike.

[Laverda Dave]

It all sounds very complicated but is actually very easy once you find the crank codes. Use a magnifying glass as it will make it easier.
The difficulty starts when it comes to locating the shells and prising open the wallet to pay for them!

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Mains

Black   13315-333-003
Brown   13316-333-003
Green   13317-333-003
 
I believe these are the colours & part numbers for the 400 mains in descending order of thickness, Black being the thickest.

This is for the conrod bearings.

Black   13215-333-003
Brown   13216-333-003
Green   13217-333-003
Yellow   13218-333-003
Red           13219-333-003

Some colours are harder to source.

[davidcumbria]

The table and codes works for crankshaft and case in as new condition. The crankcase is protected by the shell so should not have altered but any wearon the crank journals and the codes could be misleading. Hence Plastigauge. I could not find the codes on the crankshaft and I think it is quite typical that they have disappeared. If like I said above you assume your crank is in the smaller diameter pins category you can then use the case codes to conservatively pick a shell that will be thick enough, assuming it’s available which is the next problem. Looking at the 550 table my choice was going to be green, brown or the  unavailable black so going brown across the board was my compromise choice, backed up by Plastigauge.engine turned freely and oil pressure witnessed by valve cover spray is good.

[Dolomite_]

My plan is when the new crankshaft arrives, figure out the shells needed from the codes and order 1 set, then try that set with plastigauge and see what it shows. I'll then probably ask for some advice here.

[Bryanj]

As said you can use the tightest tollerance possible and run in carefully, Honda built them so they just neede a short bedding in.
If you do go the tight way oil change at 500, 1500 then every 1500 and no max running till after the 1500

[Dolomite_]

Back again. So the new crankshaft arrived and it does look a lot better than the old one.

https://imgur.com/a/IFNfRnb pictures of the codes on the webs

It looks like the codes are 1 1A 1A 1A 1A the crankcase codes are BAAAA.

From looking at my haynes manual I get yellow bearings.

Is that right or wrong?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

You need to have the journals measurements to check for for any wear/ovality or is that how you have arrived at Yellow for the conrods from the tables?

Depending on the actual journal size I would re-visit the table probably using either Green or Brown Shells then check each fitment for clearance with Plastigauge.

Not sure there are any Yellows available, blacks can be difficult to find sometimes.

Just my thoughts not gospel, I'm talking about the con rods here not the mains.

Check the main journal dimensions then check the tables for the correct mains colour.
It's confusing as the two tables have the number on a different axis iirc.
I would  expect the mains to be Brown for number 1 main then the remainder to be Green. As has been said you can go up a thickness if you run the engine in for a longer period.

More experienced members might confirm my thoughts or disagree - this is why accurate micrometer readings are essential.
When I was in your situation there was an understandable reluctance to confirm colour choices by memebers here - Ken was my guiding light. Bryan or Graham are experienced in this area.

[Deano400]

You have written 1 1A 1A 1A 1A 1A in your post. I guess the extra 1A is a typo.
All 1s on the crank and BAAAA will give you 1 Green and 4 Yellow for the mains.
You need to match the letters (4 As) on the crank with the numbers on the con rods to get the big ends.
The letters on the conrods are the weight and should all be the same.

I'm sure someone will put me right if I've got mixed up.

[Dolomite_]

What is the base measurement for the mains and connecting rod sizes?

The haynes manual says +x number but plus from what base measurement?