Engine rebuild Parts list

[Bryanj]

The Honda manual should be in Ashs dropbox and the sizes are in there

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

The sizes & tables are in the 400 Parts Manual in Aladin's Cave drop down to the 400 section it will open up and you can download the 400 Parts Manual fig ref 36-45 for mains & conrods

[Dolomite_]

Im assuming its the 35 and 32 on the graph. What measurement is that?

I've never really used thousandths of an inch before.

https://imgur.com/a/RvqynPu

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Im assuming its the 35 and 32 on the graph. What measurement is that?

I've never really used thousandths of an inch before.

https://imgur.com/a/RvqynPu

Hope I'm not being to basic this is the just the Mains  table & how you use it:-

You are not using Imperial but Metric so the top of of the table is the crank mains diameter expressed in mm.

To find the range you need to add the two plus figures to the number to obtain the range for that mains journal.
On the mains the left side letters in the table are the casing codes.

So for your crank journal number 1 with the casing code B the range for that journal is 35.008 to 35.016 mm (hence need for acuracy) The mains journal diameter range is 32.00 to 32.010 when it was new for that crank code if it's visible.

You then move across the table for the crank web number if yours is 1 then that column below contains the possibe shell colours. To the right of your particuar colour column is the clearance gap between the shell & the journal.

This is the gap you measure with the Plastigauge a small gap is tight a bigger one is looser so as to speak, so 20-46 is what you are measuring by compression of the Plastigauge. You must use the right range of Plasigauge - be careful to go by the range not the colour of the material when you buy Plastigauge.


The table for the conrods is similar except the axis layout as you will see are different.

[Bryanj]

If you never used thousanths you are knackered as you need to measure to a tenth of one

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

If you never used thousanths you are knackered as you need to measure to a tenth of one

As Bryan says you are dealing in Microns of clearance - even the temperature of your hand can alter the journal readings as you hold the Micrometer.

[Dolomite_]

Where is 45 coming from?

I understand the + and - I just can't figure out + and - from what figure.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Where is 45 coming from?

I understand the + and - I just can't figure out + and - from what figure.

Sorry my typo error as I was relying on my memory from your tables link - I'v amended the figures now
When you measure the crank journal itself that reading will become obvious in the tables tbh I get confused between the journal allowance & the crank case allowance - it's the journal you are actually measuring so it will be 32.00 to 32.010 iirc.

[Dolomite_]

Ahh ok got it now. I didnt realise the graph was in millimeters.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Ahh ok got it now. I didnt realise the graph was in millimeters.

Correct it will fall into place once you measure your crank & look at the chart figures.

I'm not an engineer so the terms like crankcase allowance appear to be not something you can measure at home if I am making sense now.

I was lucky as I was using my original crank so the one Green Shell gave me a starting point - I bought a pair of new Green Shells then using Plastigauge I was able to work out where I needed thicker shells from there as the Plasigauge Gap changed..

My casing code was C A A B A I ended up using Black,Green,Green,Brown,Green. shells for the Mains. My Plasigauge clearances were all around the 38 microns mark. My crank web markings were not all visible hence my reliance on Plastigauge - a fidly process but you get better at it with practice - worth looking on U tube to get an idea of how to do it.

Additionally As the crank wears for a particular casing code you fit a thicker shell as you can't have the crank ground to fit oversize shells as you would for some car cranks.

[Dolomite_]

My initial main clearance for the crankshaft measurements is below. Its the result of 32 - the measurement.

stator end on the left

0.01124mm  0.01632mm   0.01378mm  0.01378mm   0.01378mm

Crankcase codes are B A A A A

If im reading the chart correctly I would need 1 green 4 brown. Does that sound correct?

Rechecked it and it should be 1 BROWN and 4 GREEN. I dont think i could do all 5 brown, it would be too little clearance for the A marked ones.

[Deano400]

When you say the clearance is 0.01124, do you mean the crank measured 31.98876?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Just looking at the crank case codes  B A A A A

I would expect B (number one) to need the thickest shell i.e. probably Brown the A's probably all Green as a starting point.
Then be guided by Plastigauge clearances.
I do not understand your posted measurements - the second one looks out of place though.

Others here will have more reliable advice as I am a relative novice

[Dolomite_]

When you say the clearance is 0.01124, do you mean the crank measured 31.98876?

Yeah, the figures I gave are just the clearance, so 32 - whatever the measurement was.

The 2nd measurement was a bit odd but the measurements I got from measuring it in a few places was 31.98368mm 3 times.

The way I read the chart was like this. First code is B so the crankcase allowance row B, then the clearance is 0.01124mm or 0.011mm so its the - 0.010 to 0.020 column so BROWN.

Actually reading it out loud and typing it, it should be 1 BROWN 4 GREEN.

I'll order 1 set of green and 1 set of brown and measure with plastigauge.

[Deano400]

Ok, from the measurements it's 1 Brown, 4 Green.
Like you say order a set and plastigauge to check.