Carb Cleaning Tips?

[K2-K6]

As general contribution to topic, the "Stabil" fuel stabilizer type products we looked at recently may also offer a cleaning ability when used as concentrate on these components.

They target the fuel gumming components in whole system and could offer decent cleaning of the individual components.

A thought on clock cleaning fluid, worth being careful with the non brass carburettor materials as the Ammonium Hydroxide driving that Ph number may not be "friendly" towards this material type.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

The clock cleaning fluid is interesting, for brassware I use White Vinegar - it's much cheaper as well.

[SteveW]

On one of Allen Millyard’s videos on YouTube, he put carb bodies in a bucket of water mixed with alloy wheel cleaner.

Left them in for a few minutes until the water stopped fizzing and they came out pretty good.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I can speak from experience that the good alloy wheel cleaners like Wonder Wheels that work great also corrode wheels. Merc will not cover alloy wheels under warranty that have had such cleaners used on them. The original W124 alloy wheels were Anodised for the first few years of production before they used paint & lacquer like most others

[K2-K6]

I can speak front experience that the good alloy wheel cleaners like Wonder Wheels that work great also corrode wheels. Merc will not cover alloy wheels under warranty that have had such cleaners used on them. The original W124 alloy wheels were Anodised for the first few years of production before they used paint & lacquer like most others

My experience too Ted, with that brand (I've dome stock  ) containing Hydrochloric Acid in my sample.  You can smell it on bare aluminium based alloy, like a battery charging.

Think SteveW has sensibly included a time of immersion in anecdotal usage, which I think is wise precaution.

It is one of the only solution I've tried that removed brake dust and specifically contaminated with iron from disc brake rotor "outwash" on car alloys that haven't been kept clean.

[Mike_Berkshire]

Thanks for all the great info and suggestions. Most of the small brass components are now looking pretty spruce and the little spring bit in all the needles is free (much soaking).

Im left with some corrosion and pitting on the outside walls of a couple of the emulsifier tubes although the pinholes look clean and uncorroded - I am assuming this OK?

Im going to make some replacement gaskets for the top cover above the slide arms using Flexiod from Amazon. It comes in a number of thicknesses. Can anyone tell me what thickness and if Flexoid is a poor choice, please shout out. Thanks, Mike

[Mike_Berkshire]

They are the cross drilled open ended ones. All mixture screws were just one turn out and the slide needles are all set to the second position from the needle tip. Needles seem high and mixture screw seems less screwed out that usual - the 2 balance each other out?

Hello Mike, your bike probably is a CB550K2. The old style carbs on this model are relatively easy to clean. I've never needed an ultrasonic bath for my carbs, but my CB500 never sits for longer than 6 months and I take some precautions. Your carbs - probably numbered 087A - can be cleaned manually. Although ultrasonic is an option, there is a risk you will loose a tiny plastic part (#1 carb) in the process. I will try to find the link.
The brassware in these oldstyle hardly wears. My parts have been in there for over 140.000 km and there's still no indication of wear.
Tip: before you remove the airscrews (in the side of the carbs) turn them fully in (gently!), counting the turns. Write down the position (turns) they were in, for future reference. I'd like to know whether yours has the solid pointed airscrews or the cross drilled open ended ones.
You can find a lot of information concerning your model in the parts list here: https://www.honda4fun.com/dwnload/Part-List/CB550/CB550-K0-K1-K2-Parts-List.pdf

[AshimotoK0]

On one of Allen Millyard’s videos on YouTube, he put carb bodies in a bucket of water mixed with alloy wheel cleaner.

Left them in for a few minutes until the water stopped fizzing and they came out pretty good.

Hope it's not the alloy wheel cleaner that used hydrofluoric acid ... really nasty stuff that. I have 5l of it that somebody gave me  but always chicken out of using it.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

HFl is a nasty acid easily absorbed through the skin it will leach the Calcium out of your bones - my BiL has terrible hand issues from working with it in the glass cutting etching trade at Webb Corbett in Tutbury.

[magpie114]

Many years ago I used to mix relatively large quantities of HF with other acids to make a reagent for etching certain types of stainless steels. Head to foot PPE in a room with fume extraction and a shower activated in an emergency by stepping on a footplate. Highly corrosive and toxic.
I didn't realise it was used in alloy wheel cleaners, I guess (hope) its in a low concentration.

Alan

[AshimotoK0]

Many years ago I used to mix relatively large quantities of HF with other acids to make a reagent for etching certain types of stainless steels. Head to foot PPE in a room with fume extraction and a shower activated in an emergency by stepping on a footplate. Highly corrosive and toxic.
I didn't realise it was used in alloy wheel cleaners, I guess (hope) its in a low concentration.

Alan

https://www.jennychem.com/products/aliclean-super-very-effective-solution

Can't find a Jennychem safety data sheet for it but in another brand its stated as< 7%

I suspect that the concentration has gone down over the past few years.

[magpie114]

Well I’m surprised it’s freely available although it does say for professional use only.


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[Erny]

Thanks for all the great info and suggestions. Most of the small brass components are now looking pretty spruce and the little spring bit in all the needles is free (much soaking).

Im left with some corrosion and pitting on the outside walls of a couple of the emulsifier tubes although the pinholes look clean and uncorroded - I am assuming this OK?

Im going to make some replacement gaskets for the top cover above the slide arms using Flexiod from Amazon. It comes in a number of thicknesses. Can anyone tell me what thickness and if Flexoid is a poor choice, please shout out. Thanks, Mike

Mike, before deciding of you reuse brassware, check emulsification tubes for internal corrosion - I spent years investigation why I had one cyl spark plug always dark - see here https://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,25641.msg235103.html#msg235103

[deltarider]

They are the cross drilled open ended ones.

So far no one has reported the solid airscrews, not on the K models, so it's almost certain the American Honda Parts List has it wrong as far as the CB550K2*.

All mixture screws were just one turn out...

1¹/₂ turn out ± ³/₈ was recommended for these models.

... and the slide needles are all set to the second position from the needle tip. Needles seem high and mixture screw seems less screwed out that usual - the 2 balance each other out?

Confusing. Please clarify. In Hondaspeak we always measure the needle's position from top and not from the pointed tip.

Needles seem high and mixture screw seems less screwed out that usual - the 2 balance each other out?

On the contrary. One turn out is quite rich. As far as the needle, it depends what you meant. If they are in 4th from top, they are in standard position.
* p.C10 Ref. No.7 SCREW SET A in: https://www.honda4fun.com/dwnload/Part-List/CB550/CB550-K0-K1-K2-Parts-List.pdf

[Matt_Harrington]

HFl is a nasty acid easily absorbed through the skin it will leach the Calcium out of your bones - my BiL has terrible hand issues from working with it in the glass cutting etching trade at Webb Corbett in Tutbury.

I've heard of terrible stories of HF - the stuff frightens me!