Opening that can of worms

[Shetland Biker]

dropped you a message BrianJ.  cheers for that Ian i will get in contact with him

[DomP]

Get stuck in!  Rebuilding your own engine is very rewarding if you've got a good range of tools, I've not long finished mine with some helpful advice on here and a rebore from Bryan.  Oh and as Trigger suggested to me in the beginning £1K +

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I don't know your age or mechanical demographic but I'm with DomP on this one.
My only reservation is the 750 engine is pretty heavy so you will probably need a hand to lift it out.

I was 72 when I fully dismantled my 400 having done nothing on a motor cycle engine since I was a teenager. With the help of members here I restored my 400 starting during the COVID lock down.

I've had sleepless night during my first rebuild but it has not put me off doing a second despite a few heath issues getting in the way. If your mechanical knowledge is basic now is the time to learn - even more so if like me you are retired.

If it all goes belly up you can send the engine to Bryanj. Take plenty of photos as you strip the bike down, get hold of a Haynes Manual and go for it. Plus download the Honda Manual in Aladdins Cave or Asks dropbox. A parts manual is almost as good as a workshop manual or better for showing how the bike is assembled.

If you get stuck this is the site to help you out. If a bloke built it in Japan I'm pretty sure a Shetlander can fix it.👍👍👍

[Shetland Biker]

I don't know your age or mechanical demographic but I'm with DomP on this one.
My only reservation is the 750 engine is pretty heavy so you will probably need a hand to lift it out.

I was 72 when I fully dismantled my 400 having done nothing on a motor cycle engine since I was a teenager. With the help of members here I restored my 400 starting during the COVID lock down.

I've had sleepless night during my first rebuild but it has not put me off doing a second despite a few heath issues getting in the way. If your mechanical knowledge is basic now is the time to learn - even more so if like me you are retired.

If it all goes belly up you can send the engine to Bryanj. Take plenty of photos as you strip the bike down, get hold of a Haynes Manual and go for it. Plus download the Honda Manual in Aladdins Cave or Asks dropbox. A parts manual is almost as good as a workshop manual or better for showing how the bike is assembled.

If you get stuck this is the site to help you out. If a bloke built it in Japan I'm pretty sure a Shetlander can fix it.👍👍👍

i would love to do it myself but i know its way above what i am capable of and it way way way out of my comfort zone,  even just stripping and rebuilding the bike is gonna push me to new limts

[Spitfire]

As an F1 and F2 owner I would say that is definately an F2 and looks like it has been well kept, like the others on this site I would go for it myself and do a top end strip down just to see what is going on in there.
As for taking the motor out do the laying the bike on it's side trick.

Cheers

Dennis

[Moorey]

  If it is a 78 US model it will be a F3  This may help you Identify it.

 http://www.sohc4.com/cb750/cb750f/

[Bryanj]

More likely an "old stock" bike, they did not sell that well an Honda was discounting the last of the F2 to dealers when the dohc came out in 78

[Shetland Biker]

it is a UK model, i know that for sure.  just been out to the garage this morning to try and work out a game plan and to see what is missing/broken.  this is a long term project. so i just plan to buy things when there is spare money,  the fuel tank is missing a small bit of paint and has started to rust, so i want to get the tank off and properly resprayed.  the frame is in pretty good condition so once i get it all stripped i might just need a bit of tidying up,  all the chrome will need to be removed and boxed up to go to the mainland to get re-chromed.  wheels off and sorted,  who ever put in the clocks has hacked at the wiring so i think im just gonna put in a whole new loom then i shouldnt have any problems.  and like i said if im going to do it, i may as well do it properly.  overall im not worried how much money i put into it but it will be slow and steady.  im hoping by around september/october i would have enough money saved that i can get someone to hopefully strip and check the engine.

[Bryanj]

Just so you know that seat has been modified as well.
It would be worth taking the engine out and removing the head so you can determine which model top end it is, it is no problem running an earlier top end as long as oil returns are sorted, slightly down on power but are you really going to be able to tell unless you rag it everywhere?
If you want i can give you a mobile number to call me when i am sat at work on an evening so i can give you things to look for.
Good luck with the project

[Shetland Biker]

Just so you know that seat has been modified as well.
It would be worth taking the engine out and removing the head so you can determine which model top end it is, it is no problem running an earlier top end as long as oil returns are sorted, slightly down on power but are you really going to be able to tell unless you rag it everywhere?
If you want i can give you a mobile number to call me when i am sat at work on an evening so i can give you things to look for.
Good luck with the project

yea if you want to shoot me a message with your number that would be helpful,  thank you

[K2-K6]

Tentatively, looks like it may have the unique to F2 oil cooler plate behind filter housing (can't quite see in picture) which could mean F2 bottom end, or fitted to replacement engine as it's just a longer bolt used. Engine number will show case type anyway.

Top  "shelf" of head fins look more like K series as the F2 extended out more toward front wheelmin giving more cooling to exhaust port area.

As Bryan notes, could be K top onto F2 bottom end .... or K painted black to look like F2 original.

[Shetland Biker]

so i have been in the garage for half an hour or so tonight,  started stripping down the rear end, only because that looked the easiest,  starting to get a bit more of an idea what parts i am definentely going to need, and what parts can be reused.  ideally i need to get all the bits off that need sent away to be rechromed,  all the frame black parts i am just going to clean up and rattle can,  the frame will only need touching up in places.  not 100% sure what i am going to do with the wheels yet.  the engine is still an issue too,  a lot of the engine/clutch/gearbox covered have been removed before i got the bike and i dont have the bolts that holds them all on,  so if anyone can recommend a bolt set with alan key heads that will come in handy that would be great.  i will order a box of M6 and M8 bolts in different sizes so i can change ones out as i put it all back together.  the more i look at it and as bits come off im getting less and less scared lol 

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Personally I prefer SS bolts to the Allen Key Headed ones. If you use AKH bolts on the top of the engine they hold water and fill up with dirt over time. Lots of sellers that do kits so you get a similar length replacements.

My 500 was already fitted with SS AKH bolts so to save on costs I just replaced the top casing ones. Not bothered about the side covers being AKH ones.

If you look in the parts book the part number contains data indicating the length and thread size in mm, not the thread pitch though. If you search here you will find previous  information. There is also a code for if the bolt was Chromed, BZP etc.

By looking in the parts manuals you can see the order of the parts for the clutch assembly order in conjunction with workshop manuals.

Hope you took plenty of photos as you dismantled stuff, easy to think you will remember how it went then months down the line doubt creeps in.

[Shetland Biker]

Personally I prefer SS bolts to the Allen Key Headed ones. If you use AKH bolts on the top of the engine they hold water and fill up with dirt over time. Lots of sellers that do kits so you get a similar length replacements.

My 500 was already fitted with SS AKH bolts so to save on costs I just replaced the top casing ones. Not bothered about the side covers being AKH ones.

If you look in the parts book the part number contains data indicating the length and thread size in mm, not the thread pitch though. If you search here you will find previous  information. There is also a code for if the bolt was Chromed, BZP etc.

By looking in the parts manuals you can see the order of the parts for the clutch assembly order in conjunction with workshop manuals.

Hope you took plenty of photos as you dismantled stuff, easy to think you will remember how it went then months down the line doubt creeps in.

its all bigger stuff i have removed so far, so there will only be one way it can go back on,  is there a download-able parts manual, if so could you send me the link,  unfortunately some stuff was already stripped before i got the bike, so they will be a bit more tricky to put pack together, but i will get there slowly

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Just go to Aladdins Cave or Ash's Drop box at the top of this site Menu - all downloadable.

If you use the search box you will also find lots of answers to questions.