Aligning the rear wheel on frame

[alexdecker]

Hey all

What is the best method to align the rear wheel on the frame, if you don't have any special tools available? Obviously I can use the marks on the frame, but is there a way to dial it all the way in? I feel a little jitter in the pedal of my rear brake, and I think it might be because of poor alignment.

I aligned the rear wheel according to the marks on the frame. Then I finger tightened the nuts. I then activated the rear brake and while holding down the brake, I tightened the nuts down.

What do you guys do?

[Johnwebley]

Align the rear wheel with string and the front wheel



That's the best way

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[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Align the rear wheel with string and the front wheel



That's the best way

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Presumably it must be special string that does not stretch?
Would a decent metal tape ruler work?

[Orcade-Ian]

You can do what the MOT man does - a long piece of straight, wide timber with a cut out for the stand, not forgetting the front wheel is narrower than the rear.  You can add a strip to the edge which contacts the front wheel - half the difference between the front and rear tyre widths.

Ian

[Johnwebley]

Not really,

2 6ft straight edges would

The idea is you put it around the front wheel,,about 8in from the ground, then pull equally both sides to the rear wheel,

As the rear tyre is wider, the string should just touch the leading edge of the tyre,

Next you check the gap at the front tyre,

It's fairly easy to see if both sides are equal.
If not, adjust the rear wheel as necessary

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[Bryanj]

The "jitter" is nothing to do with alignment but either oval or corroded drum, you dont say what bike it is, very frustrating and i dont care if its in the header, shouldnt need to read that!

[alexdecker]

The "jitter" is nothing to do with alignment but either oval or corroded drum, you dont say what bike it is, very frustrating and i dont care if its in the header, shouldnt need to read that!

Sorry, it’s a CB550F2 from 1977!

[Johnwebley]

check this out


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBxK-OQ--fg

[Seabeowner]

Not really,

2 6ft straight edges would

The idea is you put it around the front wheel,,about 8in from the ground, then pull equally both sides to the rear wheel,

As the rear tyre is wider, the string should just touch the leading edge of the tyre,

Next you check the gap at the front tyre,

It's fairly easy to see if both sides are equal.
If not, adjust the rear wheel as necessary

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+1 to that.
That's the way I've always done it.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

If they are new brake shoes they might just need some bedding in or is it worse than that?

[Bryanj]

The 500 has a reputation for cracking drum liners and it is very possible the 550 is following suit, take it apart and check the cast drum part for cracks and rust lifting, if so its either a different wheel or find somebody who can machine out the liner and shrink in a new one.
I know you dont have to mot it but it would be a fail if you did

[alexdecker]

The inside doesn’t look cracked at all though. I have this picture.

[Bryanj]

That wheel has been relined alread mate and may not have been turned perfectly true or possibly pulled fractionally out of true when rim laced, it may bed in or may need a very light skim by somebody with a big enough lathe to get the complete wheel in

[Laverda Dave]

Try Terry at Stotfold Engineering, he's near Biggleswade.
I took my Triton front wheel to him because it was grabbing. Turned out the drum was slightly oval due to being pulled out of shape by the fitting of stainless spokes.
He has a lathe big enough to get a whole wheel in complete with tire. He also machined the brake shoes to match the drum.

http://www.stotfoldengineers.co.uk/motorcycle-restoration/

[Johnwebley]

The inside doesn’t look cracked at all though. I have this picture.

Alex, were are you based?



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