Rocker Housing - Stuck??

[Bryanj]

The washers stick in the head recesses but if really missing are still available new.
On the adjuster is the thread stripped all the way down or just at the end? Honda should never have put that slot in there it gets abused.
New pattern ones are available but expensive and dont often come up used in good order any more.
I MAY have a used one but it wont be cheap

[Mike_Berkshire]

The washers stick in the head recesses but if really missing are still available new.
On the adjuster is the thread stripped all the way down or just at the end? Honda should never have put that slot in there it gets abused.
New pattern ones are available but expensive and dont often come up used in good order any more.
I MAY have a used one but it wont be cheap

Thanks Bryan. The thread isnt stripped its the slot that has broken away; theres only half the slot. I have a mate who is a very ingenious fellow with a plethora of lathes, welding equipment and goodness only knows what else. I will see what he can devise but if I draw a blank I'll let you know.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Are we talking here about the captive type stud/bolt  that is normally part of the tensioner blade - not available as a separate part? Is your tensioner blade in otherwise good condition.

[martin_uk]

Its been a pretty good morning so far. Head and barrels now removed and time for a rest and some tea. Just a couple of worries along the way: 1) I only have 11 head bolt washers, not 12 so where is the 12th, was there ever a 12th? ( I have used an inspection lamp to look down the cam chain tunnel and I cant see anything in there, I have given the head a good shake and it hasnt fallen out. 2) the screwdriver slot on the cam chain tensioner adjuster screw is stripped out/snapped off. Waiting for my son to come round later this morning to help remove the forks.

found on mine that you need a magnet to tell if washer is stuck to head on some of the less accessable ones

[Mike_Berkshire]

Are we talking here about the captive type stud/bolt  that is normally part of the tensioner blade - not available as a separate part? Is your tensioner blade in otherwise good condition.

The tensioner blade and mechanism assembly looks to me to be in good condition. It is just the head of the screw that goes through the 10mm nut with the little gear bit on the end. Where the outer part of the locking screw should have a slot it has had too much force applied with a screwdriver and one side of the slotted part for the screwdriver has sheared off.

[Mike_Berkshire]

found on mine that you need a magnet to tell if washer is stuck to head on some of the less accessable ones

A top tip Martin; I'll try that, thanks!

[Bryanj]

As long as the nut screws on leave it alone as you dont need that slot

[Mike_Berkshire]

As long as the nut screws on leave it alone as you dont need that slot

That’s good to know Bryan. How do I switch it from slack to tensioned when I rebuild the engine?

[Bryanj]

You dont ever use the slot anyway, when building before fitting cam stick fingers down tunnel, push slipper to carbs and hold whilst nipping up locknut then just undo when built and holding pressure on kickstart, nipping up whilst holding pressure.

Check the tensioner fold over tabs are crimped over tight to hold theteeth on the bolt in mesh with the rack, people forcing the screw slot in the false idea that this will tension the chain is what damages the meshing in the first place

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I assumed the end slot was was for a stubby crewdriver to stop the bolt from turning as you nipped up or released  the lock nut.

[DomP]

Surely is Ted otherwise it would turn as the nut tensions up

[Bryanj]

It never has in all the years i been doing them, BUT i do make sure the nut runs free

[davidcumbria]

Agree Bryan  mine  didn’t move so I wondered what the point of the slot is.