Frame/Swingarm prep for paint

[Mike_Berkshire]

Hi all. I have stripped the bike and the next task is the repainting of the frame and swinging arm. I am taking it to a local stove enameller that does bikes and will do the masking. I have removed all brackets, grommets, rubbers, stands, springs and fasteners etc. Only parts still in/on the frame are the rear brake pivot linkage, head bearing cups and shock absorber bushes. Do these all need to be removed too and if so any tips for their removal? Thanks

[Bryanj]

All except the swing arm bushes need to come off, the bushes may or may not be damaged by the heat of stove enameling but they are a swine to push out and in

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I left my swing arm bushes in place on the 400 the powder coating them turn brittle - they virtually fell out so I fitted the brass bushes that NJ sells.

I have no idea if powder coating uses higher temperature than Stove Enameling.

[Mike_Berkshire]

The swinging arm bushes are removed and I have a new set of brass ones from Julie to fit after paint (ensuring no paint on outside edge of swingarm tube). Its the bushes for the lower mount of the shock absorbers that are still in place on the swingarm plus the pivot arm for the rear brake and the bearing cups for the headstock in the main frame.

[Bryanj]

Still take out everything except the lower shack bushes for reasons stated

[Mike_Berkshire]

Thanks Bryan. I can see how to remove the other parts apart from the rear brake pivot arm; does the rear brake pivot arm just knock out? I cant see a circlip or anything holding it in but dont want to start bashing it unless Im sure. Also, once the old-style ball races are out of the steering tube, is it worthwhile replacing with a set of taper bearings/races in your opinion or would you stick with the ball races? Thanks again.

[Bryanj]

If yo meanthe pivot in the frame that the pedal fits on yes it knocks out after swing arm removed.
Personally i only think tapers are worth it if you want the last ounce of performance and handling, tapers can be a pain to fit right and are a real bugger to get the outer races out again! You can get ball races where the balls are in a cage so easier to fit, i think i have seen them on motorcycle products site, yes thats the second time i have mentioned them today and no i dont get anything fo it!

[mickwinf]

Personally I would remove the shock bushes and renew them. Would also replace head bearings with standard races as many have had trouble with fitment of taper rollers.

[Bryanj]

Steering Head Ball Bearing Kit - 013075 on Motorccle Products pages £10.04 inc vat plus postage, check what else you need before order

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I have used the taper roller kits sold by Pyramid Parts without issue, the kit includes a decent lower seal arrangement. I did not use the top seal to avoid any issues with sufficient top threads. I'm not an engineer so made some measurements of the bottom taper roller height to ensure I put the right shim below the bearing. A simple comparison of bearing thickness/height between original plain bearing and taper replacement was straight forwards. I have a cheapish tool that can remove the bottom races without damage.

The shocker bushes can be a pig to remove depending on the level of rusting - deffo take them out before painting.

[Laverda Dave]

I used the kit from Pyramid Parts and whilst it did fit there was only 1.5 turns on the castelated nut. I contact Pyramid and they requested photos and these were duly sent with the measurements. Pyramid admitted the kit was not suitable for the 400/4 despite their listing stating it was and gave me my money back. This was the same kit many have used on here. Pyramid agreed with my findings that it could be dangerous.
I bought a set of caged ball bearings in the end and they fitted perfectly using a 2mm shim on the lower yoke.
I have contacted Pyramid a couple of times since to request an update and I also voluntered to try the stepped bearing they were proposing but they told me they are currently speaking to several restorers of these machines to obtain a solution. Needless to say I had a pig of a job to get the taper races out of my newly powder coated frame!

[mickwinf]

when I stripped Lazarus it had Taper rollers fitted and they are really difficult to remove as they are the same diameter as the headstock tube so no lip to get a drift on to bash it out. In the end my mate who has welding gear ran a bead of weld around it and it just dropped out. I bought some of the caged ball type but was not happy with the quality so chucked them in the bit and went for original races and generic ball bearings.

[Mike_Berkshire]

Thanks for all the input and suggestions. I will tap out the brake bit and the bearing cups and whilst Im at it will have a go at the shock bushes and see how bonded in they are. I will get a kit of the old-style ball bearings and races as if it worked for nigh on 50 years then thats going to see me out. Mike

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I used the kit from Pyramid Parts and whilst it did fit there was only 1.5 turns on the castelated nut. I contact Pyramid and they requested photos and these were duly sent with the measurements. Pyramid admitted the kit was not suitable for the 400/4 despite their listing stating it was and gave me my money back. This was the same kit many have used on here. Pyramid agreed with my findings that it could be dangerous.
I bought a set of caged ball bearings in the end and they fitted perfectly using a 2mm shim on the lower yoke.
I have contacted Pyramid a couple of times since to request an update and I also voluntered to try the stepped bearing they were proposing but they told me they are currently speaking to several restorers of these machines to obtain a solution. Needless to say I had a pig of a job to get the taper races out of my newly powder coated frame!

I believe a member here fitted a Pyramid kit to his 400 without issues I think it was oldchuffer? Anglesey way. My 400 ended up with the caged lower ball race and a taper top as the none pyramid kit left not enough  top thread.

[davidcumbria]

My lower shock bushes pressed out without difficulty after 50 years using two sockets in a vice after heating the area using a mapp torch. Cheap to replace and you are having frame repainted anyway. Gets round all the hassle documented by some other methods