Charging problems

[dougie]

I have a charging problem with my F2.Ive had the bike 30years and its always been the same. Over the years Ive replaced just about every component of the charging system but the problem persists. Im repeatedly told its a common problem with these bikes but no one has ever told me the solution. Anybody out there been through this that might help? Ive replaced
rectifier / voltage regulator /fuse box / ignition coils even the field coil. I cant get a stator coil but the resistance readings on it are ok per haynes manual. Any ideas......?

[metalcatfish]

I'm baffled by the problem your experiencing, I can only mention the same problems I had. Namely poor charging due to: One corroded connection on the 3 phase connector, and the boyer regulator rectifier which worked well for about 3 weeks, then stopped working under load. Since I put the original rusty regulator back on it works fine. Good luck.

[AshimotoK0]

Check that there is no resistance (infinite) between any of the three  yellow stator leads and the metal frame. I had two 400/4 stators develop this fault. The alternator runs 'dry' and not in oil as on the CB750 and the enamel insulation breaks down on the winding wires.

Just a thought.

Cheers

AshD

[Bryanj]

500/550 only charge at over 3,000 rpm and then only just with a standard headlamp and not quite with a halogen replacement so it could just be if you aint riding it hard enough and doing lost of starts that is the way it is BUT do check for a good, clean connection at all terminals ESPECIALY the earth to motor from the battery

[florence]

I disconnected the electric starter and just use the kick, now my battery is fine and lasts well.

[metalcatfish]

500/550 only charge at over 3,000 rpm and then only just with a standard headlamp and not quite with a halogen replacement

Thats very interesting, Thats not an issue Ive had with my bike though. I run halogens, twin tail lights, removed kickstart and electronic ignition and even with lights on i can get a reasonable charging voltage at the battery at tickover.  In fact I'v never noticed any specific issues with charging on this model. But I only have my own bike and its the only 550 ive ever owned. Mine has been rewired though, which I did myself. So is it possible that there is an inherent weakness somewhere in the original wiring loom? I did have problems when using the combined electronic reg rectifier unit though.

[SteveD CB500K0]

According to my books, the 550 alternator put out 110W at 2k revs. If you take a couple of amps to run the ignition, that doesn't leave very much for everything else.

My 500/4 will only indicate properly at over 3k revs - I have a very understanding MOT tester!

[captaindonutbikes]

I've got one of them combined rectifier/regulator units which solved my charging issue.

 

[florence]

My trafficators never worked properly so I did the decent thing and threw them in the dustbin.

[matthewmosse]

I have one altinator / stator unit that doesn't charge the battery as quick as it uses power with lights on under 3000rpm but other than that one unit which I'd presume faulty my 500 and 550's always ran lights on or off, and kept up with demands of indicators and sidecar lighting just fine for most of the time I ran these bikes - everything was stock on my bikes so that's how things should run. I'd had the same problem when I was last running the bike - swapping the regulator and rectifiers didn't seem to sort it so when I get the time I'll be lloking into the wiring.

[Yoshi823]

Hi all. Been away for a while so have only just read this post.

For stator rewinding these people are really good... http://www.westcountrywindings.co.uk/

I had a problem with the standard voltage regulator on my 750F2 where I needed some extra oomph to keep the CB900FZ spec battery fully charged. There's a mechanical adjustment on the OEM item where you can adjust the voltage put across the battery. Mine was set at 12.2v for some reason, so I adjusted it so that it gave 13v. This didn't boil the battery, but allowed the power hungry Boyer-Bransden system & the high output Andrews coils to be fed correctly without draining the battery. I was also running some big headlights...well some small ones physically, but with two 60/55 H4 bulbs up front being fed via relays from the battery, things could quickly have been run at a loss too easily.

Also, check to make sure that the mechanical points are clean & smooth. Dirty/pitted points will affect the settings of the regulator.