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DO NOT fit the "O" ring chain if its a 500/550.
DO NOT fit the "O" ring chain if its a 500/550. Would be nice to know what bike you are talking about, I know its in the 750 section but that does not always mean much!!
There is not usually much preload on the fork springs and they are quite easy to undo the caps. I do them with a socket/short extension/ T-bar to undo with them in soft vice jaws (if out of the bike).If you keep leaning on them as they come undone you can gently release the cap as you feel the threads end to avoid them pinging out.Putting them back in, I lean on the cap while turning it anti-clockwise until you feel the thread ends pass each other, then start to do them up. This helps to avoid any cross threading.Cable nipples are probably "cast" in soft metal onto the cables. I've found it easiest to replace them by cutting a section from a brass screw, drill a hole for the cable and a small countersink for the side that the cable isn't approaching, then clean and solder to new length.If the cables are in good condition you may find that they have more value to someone needing that spec and so replace them with std length.
The letter F faces forwards and if you put the plat side of the clamp on a level surface you will see that one side is machined off more than the other--the high side is tightened first till solid with the slider and then the other till the axle is clamped.Speedo drive is set so the cable run is smooth.The caliper bolt has to be adjusted correctly, procedure is in the manual.The rear brake torque arm has a shouldered bolt and the arm goes over the plain part then a spring washer that also fits over the plain part of thr bolt (some have rubber washers) then a plain washer that only fits over the thread then the nut done up tight. DO NOT forget the split pin or "R" clip through the hole or its an MOT fail. Other end where it locates to the swing arm is similarly located