front forks

[david451]

Working away on my project and the next job is the forks.

Will I get the oil out and in through the drain on the leg perhaps with a syringe, was reading that if you take the caps off the top that there is a big zebidie in there that is gona launch into my face. The forks are off the bike of course, but they don't need stripped they are fine, just want to change the oil.

Read that 145cc is what is required per leg, is that correct.

The other thing is that the bike came with mental chopper bars so my cables are too long, I read that they are crimped on, anybody think I will get away with cutting off the nipples drilling a hole and soldering them, or is there a better way around this.

[K2-K6]

There is not usually much preload on the fork springs and they are quite easy to undo the caps. I do them with a socket/short extension/ T-bar to undo with them in soft vice jaws (if out of the bike).

If you keep leaning on them as they come undone you can gently release the cap as you feel the threads end to avoid them pinging out.

Putting them back in, I lean on the cap while turning it anti-clockwise until you feel the thread ends pass each other, then start to do them up. This helps to avoid any cross threading.

Cable nipples are probably "cast" in soft metal onto the cables. I've found it easiest to replace them by cutting a section from a brass screw, drill a hole for the cable and a small countersink for the side that the cable isn't approaching, then clean and solder to new length.

If the cables are in good condition you may find that they have more value to someone needing that spec and so replace them with std length.

[david451]

Thanks for that, going to order a few bits from David silvers tomorrow.

They have two types of chain,  split one and O ring one 18 and 50 squid, is it worth fitting the O ring one although its going to cost me a splitter/riveter anorl, but I need one anyway for my other bikes.

[Bryanj]

DO NOT fit the "O" ring chain if its a 500/550. Would be nice to know what bike you are talking about, I know its in the 750 section but that does not always mean much!!

[Tomb]

DO NOT fit the "O" ring chain if its a 500/550.

Ok I'll ask , why?

And is it going to be expensive if I have fitted an O ring chain

[Bryanj]

Because the "O" ring chain is too wide ans wears into the crankcase on the 500/550

[Tomb]

Ooer!! that does sound expensive, I'll have to check mine this Sunday. 

[david451]

DO NOT fit the "O" ring chain if its a 500/550. Would be nice to know what bike you are talking about, I know its in the 750 section but that does not always mean much!!

It's a 750 and the guy at David silvers talked me out of the O ring chain, the heavy duty link one he said is more than capable.

I was wanting to change the handle bars to the uk spec but he wont have any until the new year, the bar was a easy rider one. My other bike has the U.S ones and thinking that I need to keep the bike to spec, is that the proper way to go guys, I don't like them, I prefer the flatter ones to be honest, but both bikes are U.S.

Forks all done today, just the oil to change in them, rear mud guard on, getting excited now. Fokin freezing in the garage though brrrrr.

Oh and whilst I remember I can't get an email address or contact number for sunrise graphics the link they have won't work on my phootur.

Does anybody know how I get the old girl to the MOT station, I know that I can insure it on the frame number but since I don't have a registration number yet I cant put a plate on. Trade plate around my shoulder perhaps, trailer???

[Seamus]

try
http://www.sunrisegraphics.co.uk/sunrise/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=19&Itemid=15
for Sunrise Graphics

You can book an MoT on the frame number and take a chance on riding (dependant on distance), failing that, it's a trailer or van.

[Bryanj]

As its an import, as long as you have pre booked the MOT and have insurance you can, in theory, ride it to the test and directly home after BUT carry ALL the paperwork just in case plod gets inquisitive.

What you can't do is drive it to the DVLA office if they want to inspect it

[Tomb]

When I was getting an age related reg for a CB72 I was told I couldn't ride on the road without the number plate, therefore had to use my trailer to get it to its first MOT. That was a few years ago, things may have changed.

[david451]

There is not usually much preload on the fork springs and they are quite easy to undo the caps. I do them with a socket/short extension/ T-bar to undo with them in soft vice jaws (if out of the bike).

If you keep leaning on them as they come undone you can gently release the cap as you feel the threads end to avoid them pinging out.

Putting them back in, I lean on the cap while turning it anti-clockwise until you feel the thread ends pass each other, then start to do them up. This helps to avoid any cross threading.

Cable nipples are probably "cast" in soft metal onto the cables. I've found it easiest to replace them by cutting a section from a brass screw, drill a hole for the cable and a small countersink for the side that the cable isn't approaching, then clean and solder to new length.

If the cables are in good condition you may find that they have more value to someone needing that spec and so replace them with std length.

That's the oil changed ok it was as easy as you said.

Put the wheel back on but not quite sure the correct way to do this. The leg caps have a letter F on them does that signify something never noticed until I cleaned them up, also do you just set the axle with a nice angle for the speedo cable or is there a proper setting.

Does the bolt that has a spring on it on the caliper go up tight or is there an adjustment, and lastly "phew, sorry folk", does the rear brake drum stay go up tight or do you leave it with a little movement.

Got all the black bits done and will put the wiring back in next week, should get her running if all goes well.

[Bryanj]

The letter F faces forwards and if you put the plat side of the clamp on a level surface you will see that one side is machined off more than the other--the high side is tightened first till solid with the slider and then the other till the axle is clamped.

Speedo drive is set so the cable run is smooth.

The caliper bolt has to be adjusted correctly, procedure is in the manual.

The rear brake torque arm has a shouldered bolt and the arm goes over the plain part then a spring washer that also fits over the plain part of thr bolt (some have rubber washers) then a plain washer that only fits over the thread then the nut done up tight. DO NOT forget the split pin or "R" clip through the hole or its an MOT fail. Other end where it locates to the swing arm is similarly located

[david451]

The letter F faces forwards and if you put the plat side of the clamp on a level surface you will see that one side is machined off more than the other--the high side is tightened first till solid with the slider and then the other till the axle is clamped.

Speedo drive is set so the cable run is smooth.

The caliper bolt has to be adjusted correctly, procedure is in the manual.

The rear brake torque arm has a shouldered bolt and the arm goes over the plain part then a spring washer that also fits over the plain part of thr bolt (some have rubber washers) then a plain washer that only fits over the thread then the nut done up tight. DO NOT forget the split pin or "R" clip through the hole or its an MOT fail. Other end where it locates to the swing arm is similarly located

Thanks for that.

Can I just confirm one thing though, a shouldered bolt is usually used so that when the nut is tightned up the bolt still moves, in this case when the original washers were used the frame side remained loose but the hub side tight. Is that what you mean.

[Bryanj]

Nope both move