Clutch

[kifer]

Hi to everybody, Having a weekend off from my 750 Honda, thought I would give my DR650 some TLC.  Had air leek on carb found using brake cleaner sorted that out runs sweet now. Problem I have is with clutch it has been dragging making 1st or 2nd to neutral very hard work, all adjustment was correct have pulled clutch out pressure plates wthin tollerance  although do look a bit shiney, driven plates seem flat, the basket forks seem to have slight ribs where plates have been sitting, does any body think this could be the problem and should I smooth them out I am sure this is what I have done in the past [ over 30 years ago ] excepting the fact things have moved on a bit since then. As I expect you know this is a wet clutch. Any help would be much apprieciated.

[LesterPiglet]

Yes, smooth those ridges out. That would make the clutch sticky one way or the other. And prolly take the glaze of those friction plates as well tho I don't think that is your problem.

[kifer]

Cleaned up basket forks all back together, Mr chisel man had been at main shaft nut [ I seem to get all his old bikes ] so I tidied that up as well just need oil and test, Got some fully synth castrol 5w 40 was thinking about throwing that in the old thumper anyone got any opinions on using it, I have 5Ltrs left from my old K2 Gixer ?

[Spitfire]

I always thought that synthetic oil and wet clutches did not mix well.

Cheers

Den

[kifer]

Have heard all sorts of stuff but what do you believe,

[K2-K6]

As I understand it synths have a more perfect long chain molecular structure, which is primarily the ability to maintain a film under use and heat range. This is mostly what's keeping the metal parts from touching each other and VERY desirable. Can't see why you wouldn't want this but accept that some motors may have characteristics that are specifically designed/toleranced for old type oils (probaly prior to 1970 at a very rough guess).

The clutch slip question often is produced as why it shouldn't be used in some bike engines but unless there is very specific evidence for this I think it can mostly be dissmissed. The clutch plates very specifically have a design (the gaps in friction) to deliberately break down the oil film without damaging it and so grip it's oposing plate and prevent clutch slip. the oil is not necessarily more slippery just it's resistance to the film being penetrated if that makes any sense.

If the use is for a reasonably used motor, I can't really see you running into any real problems to be honest.

[kifer]

Thanks for replies, I have looked on tinternet and most say its ok with 5w 40 except in extreme temps, anyway its gone into the old thumper 95 in year, after sorting carb and clutch took it out today, Its a different bike smooth gear change no probs back to neutral and lots of space under front wheel in 1st,2nd and 3rd What fun  [ and at my age 55 ] like being a youth again..He He

[K2-K6]

Sounds like you've got it going well now, that's what riding them is about, fun!

[kifer]

Thanks K2-K6 I presume your tag is your bikes very nice. Yes I still like a bit of fun keeps me young. Just got to get test on seeley
then all my bikes on road a 1st for me. Need to tidy fork bottoms on my VFR don't want to Polish them any ideas for maybe paint and laquer pos rattle can.?

[K2-K6]

Yes the K2 I've had since 1977 and the K6 rescued from a friends crash and used a a commuter for years, both need a renovation now.
Currently running a 1984 CBX750 as general run-around, also got a Triumph speed triple (the first one).
There's others on here that have much more of a hands on with paint than me so maybe they'll chip in with some help for the forks.
Bikes that lift the front wheel are just so much fun, definitely got an addiction to that and you're spot on I think it's keeps you young.
Hav fun.
Speaking to a guy at a bike meet last sunday who was building up a seeley that had many missing bits, encouraged him to have a look at this site so he may turn up.

[LesterPiglet]

Aerosols are fine for fork legs or any smaller parts. You need a clear laquer if you are using metallic, not necessary if it's straight paint.

[kifer]

Thanks K2-K6 Sounds like you have some nice kit at your end, there is a guy must be local rides a blue 750 pos K1 on a H plate seen him a few times but barring pushing him off not been able to find out who he is, His bike looks to be in mint condition,

Cheers Lester a trip to dat der Halfords in order just want to take front wheel off and paint them on the bike, Got quite a few club meets comming off so just want to ride, done enough in shed this year, Cheers all let the season begin.

[the-chauffeur]

Chaps

Hope you don't mind me resurrecting this thread, but I've got a clutch question.

Bike is a Honda SL350 K2 (essentially a CB350 engine) with sticky clutch plates.  So how do I stop the plates being sticky?  I gather I'm s'posed to take the glaze off the friction plates, but what's the best way to do that?  And should the cork plates get any treatment as well, or do I just check they're within tolerance and clean them off with paraffin or similar?

I have a feeling the stiction (for want of a better word) is causing the bike to conk out at idle when in gear with the clutch in - does that sound likely?

Thanks in advance

[LesterPiglet]

Remove glaze with some wet and dry. #200 should be ok. Clean all the plates with alcohol or something similar. I have some quick evaporating stuff for prepping paintwork I use. If the cork plates look shiny give them a scuff with wet and dry too.

[K2-K6]

I'd go with the direction of degreasing them with alcohol as well.

I'm making an assumption here in that the plates could have been sitting with oil in them for years? and that could make them feel tacky?

Is the problem you describe as dragging as if gthe clutch is trying to bite when the motor is ticking over so that it pulls the revs down?

May be worth considering a brake cleaner for use if it proves not to affect any bonding that is used to make them up.