1969 Diecast/ K0 restoration

[mick]

Hi Pete paint job looks ace  , I would use the repro air box and save the original one,  cheers Mick.

[UK Pete]

Still not sure , i might use the original and see how it withstands the very low miles i will put on the bike when its done

[UK Pete]

I have started gathering parts for the rebuild of my rear wheel, up until now i have not paid much attention to the rear wheel, it has sat there in the corner virtually untoched covered in grime, i was dissapointed to find that the final drive flange has been scuffed up by a chain incident in the past, this seems very common looking through some other peoples build threads, i have been thinking that perhaps my bike had a chain break in its first year as my engine number seems to have been  stamped possibly by a dealer rather than honda, so it could have been rebuilt with new casings, or maybe not the date stamps in the engine cases are 1969 and consistant with the build date so who knows what has happened, anyway back to the wheel below is a picture of the scuffed up drive, i would say it is repairable , at the edge it still measures 3.5 mm so i think it could be sanded or machined out, what do you guys think

[mick]

Hi Pete I would say it could be sanded out and polished without any issues cheers  Mick.

[JamesH]

Completely agree with Mick, definitely think you should have a go to get that out Pete. When do you think you might have the K0 completed?

[UK Pete]

Yes i will have a go to get it out should be easy enough just tedious work, i have a spare which is now probably the better one to use but it has been welded up i will post up pictures tommorrow of the other one, as for a finish date i dont know i have come to a stand still on the engine , i still need a head and barrells, before i can rebuild the engine , trouble is they only come up now and again and when they do they go for stupid money even if they are damaged
pete

[UK Pete]

It has been slow moving of recent months but i am now starting to get enthusiastic again especially as i have a set of no number exhausts on order and the paint work all done, it still leaves me with the engine to do, i might now  use my original head, but am still searching for barrels, i have a k1 head and barrels which at a glance looks the same, but if you look up close at the front you can see a small difference where there is the extra front bolt,
Here are the pictures of my spare drive flange, from the outside this looks perfect, however it was damaged behind where the rubbers go two big chunks missing, so i got it welded up and i have roughly shaped it with a file, i dont think it will cause any issues if i use this now its repaired

[K2-K6]

I don't think you're doing too bad at all Pete given the amount to get through.......it's that nice realisation that you get when you are closer to getting it finished that sneaks up on you as you are thinking about just what needs doing and often discounting just how much youv'e actually done.
Comments on your first sprocket hub....looks like it's been rubbing on a chainguard to do that sort of mark.....would be quickest and fastest to spin it in a lathe and use wet-or-dry paper to clean it up then hand finish to take away any machine patterns as I think these looked mostly hand buffed as original.
The second welded one looks like it should be ok to use as the rubber is driven all across that face right down to the root of the casting.....so it's design has no real point load that could break it.
As a point of interest, the welding looks good quality with good material integration......I always prefer not to grind welds back if you can avoid it (i.e. not generally seen) as it promotes ongoing strength if properly welded.

[UK Pete]

I suppose i have come along quite a bit, certainly with the procurement of parts, i would say i have 90% of the parts i need,
but i still need to build the engine, restore the wheel components and build the wheels, build the forks, recon the seat , get some of the parts re-chromed, new tyres, restore the carbs, probably much more than this i just can't think of it,
The welding is of good quality as you observed, also of substantial thickness to enable me to grind back and still have more thickness than original, i will restore both flanges and take my choice
Here is the welded Flange flatened off with various grades of wet and dry , then satin polished , just need to clear coat it now, i think that the satin polish finish topped with clear coat will be as near as i can get to original finish, i say this because this flange had part of its surface area where the clear coat was still on it, i removed this to reveal what i regard as a satin finish, the clear coat should gloss it up to be like a factory finish, however if it does not i will strip it back and polish it as i like the polished look as well, just means more maintenance

[mick]

Morning Pete your doing a cracking job on your KO,    just keep plugging away doing a bit when you can & feel like it that it doesn't become a chore if you know what I mean?  cheers Mick.

[UK Pete]

Hey mick thanks BTW that was the flange i got off you with the hub
pete

[mick]

I thought it was, looks better now its welded up, that Ducktail seat I bought a while ago was worse than it looked when I took it apart, I sold the seat cover, strap & seat trim to a guy in the states got my money back and made a little, decided i'm going to buy one from Morretti I know your not a fan of them but have you seen the price of proper ones  cheers Mick.

[UK Pete]

I have a good seat on mine, but it has one of those modern covers which look a bit puffy/ bloated, the originals are flatter and have a more leatherette type of material, plus the Honda logo is more of a greyish colour, it makes me wonder why people dont try and copy the originals properly, only one place does and i am not prepared to pay the f--ing ridiculous price they want ( Yamiya)
pete

[JamesH]

Pete - check out the us forum for sale section. Tews19 is parting out a k0 engine - could be the head / barrels you need?

[UK Pete]

Thanks James