Clutch Slip... and

[Sharpy]

After faffing around with a few bits and bobs I decided to head down my street just to see how it was running, apart from feeling very small compared to my DL1000 I am sure the clutch was slipping, when I gassed it up a bit it did accelerate but not at the same speed as the revs, is there anyway to adjust the clutch other tahn the cable or am I in need of a new clutch?  It would not surprise me as the bike stood for 30 years before I got my hands on.

Aside from the carb fuel flooding issue she seems to be running pretty sweet, idles well without the choke and revs nicely and freely very excited about getting it finally finished off, just in time for... well erm... winter... 

Still plenty I am not happy with but just keen to get it through the MOT and ready to ride.

Also on the carbs its only 2 that seem to overflow, what are peoples thoughts, get kits for all or just the 2 that are an issue?

Cheers

Sharpy

[Sharpy]

I did a quick search and found this...

"One thing to check would be the clutch end float, also, make sure the odd-ball friction plate is in the right position, I agree that clutch slip is uncommon on 400/4's even with tuned engines"

But it is fair to say these are not terms I have come across before....

 

[ka-ja]

Hi,
     I can say from experience that my highly tuned 460/4 clutch did not slip under "aggressive" acceleration, But this is dependent on many factors, condition of clutch plates and baskets,thrust plates, correct adjustment or even a bad clutch cable. The one thing I did do was fit heavy duty springs after being advised to do that because of the state of engine tune.

[Sharpy]

Thanks Ka-Ja, Generally the condition of the clutch seemed okay when I had the covers off the bike had not done that many miles from new before the crash so I am hoping it just needs to adjustment to sort it out, however i am not clear how to do this at the moment?!

[Lobo]

Hi Sharpy,

First of all assume you have the correct oil in the bike? - a modern synthetic will likely cause clutch slip. If using a synthetic oil suggest you switch back to the good old Duckams 50 type mineral based oil... Halfords do an equivalent 'Classic' in a green & cream can, BryanJ on this forum recommends a diesel oil - says identical spec to what Honda recommended, .... tho suggest you check the specs yourself when buying.

The clutch springs (4) have a limit length of 29.75mm by my book, with 31.25mm being the spec length.

If you had the clutch apart it is very important to get the plates back correctly - the single B plate looks identical to the 6 A plates but has a smaller outside diameter to the frictional material; only really obvious if both in your fingers. (each of my A plates has a tiny notch in just one side of one lug - the B plate does not) The B plate goes on last - ie outermost to the set of As.

If you need a replacement set of plates I might have one, though will need to measure to check in spec. (pm me if so)

To adjust..
Turn adjuster at lever all the way in
Turn cable adjuster on top of clutch case all the way in
Remove clutch cover & loosen lock-nut on adjuster arm
Turn adjuster screw in (clockwise) until slight resistance felt..
..and then back off 1/4 to 1/2 a turn
Re tighten locknut & replace the clutch cover plate.
Adjust the clutch case cable adjuster so that you have 3/4" play at the end of the clutch lever.
And finally adjust the lever cable adjuster to take out remaining free play (but do leave a bit)

Hope this helps,
Simon

[Sharpy]

Cheers Lobo,  I used a semi syth that i use in my more modern bikes, I was planning an oil change anyway and have a tin of that Halfords stuff as I used it in my BMW, will the oil have done any permanent damage?

I did not actually take the clutch plates off the bike, I did a visual inspection as best i could with the clutch still on the bike.

Thanks for the notes on adjusting it, I will start with that and the oil and go from there, if I need new plates I will drop you a note!

Thanks

Sharpy

[Lobo]

Hi again Sharpy,
I'm no guru on clutches / oil, but don't think I've read anywhere that damage ever results. Pretty certain it'll all be fine.
Good luck,
Simon

[totty]

If the slip can be ridden around I'd put some miles on it to see if the problem goes away.
The clutch slipped on my 550 when I first bought it after a 9 year lay up, it slipped again to a lesser extent after I had it off the road for a year.

[Sharpy]

Great thanks guys, i will adjust the clutch change the oil and then get riding!  Hopefully it will get better!

I am unusually giddy about getting out on this bike.... 

[Sharpy]

Clutch adjusted and she is loads better now, might need some fine tuning but that will have to wait until she is on the road properly I think!

Cheers

Sharpy 

[Sharpy]

Done some more carb type work and pleased to announce Harriet (yep she has a name....  ) has stopped peeing on the floor! 



Hurrah!

So many things getting sorted... its in danger of being ready for the road! 

Thanks for all your advice and help!

Cheers

Sharpy