OVER WINTERING

[paul G]

Hi all,
             This question has probably been asked before.
What is the best procedure for over wintering, draining the fuel, oil etc no problem but what is the best way of protecting the chrome without having a nightmare getting the protection off in the spring.
Thought of waxoil but will this be difficult to remove or is it just a good spray of WD40 and a wipe to ensure everything is covered.

Regards,

[totty]

I brim rather than drain the fuel, it minimises the condensation in the tank and therefore rust build up - or at least that's the theory. As I tend to use it on the odd winter day it's also less hassle to top up each time than to repeatedly drain.
ACF50 works well on chrome and bare alloy.

[UK Pete]

Same as totty said ACF50 is about the best protection for any metal parts, and also fill the tank with petrol but it is wise to put a stabaliser in the fuel if your leaving it for the whole season, also a good clean and  wax on all the bodywork, i also i take the battery out and keep it somewhere warm and charge it every month
pete

[paul G]

Thanks guys,

Will go the brimming it rout as I also like to use it on nice winter days.
The only thing with that is how often do you have to run it or let the carb bowls fill up to eliminate the gumming up !!
I wondered why all that ACF50 had started to appear on ebay.

Regards,

[totty]

I think gum is what's left behind when fuel evaporates, the less often you fill them the better. I've heard of people turning off the fuel and running it dry before parking every time, too much hassle for me.

I have filled the bowls with redex for longer term storage and it worked really well. Just drain the bowls, fill through the pipe, then drain before starting.

[matthewmosse]

When I had carb issues I took to turning the fuel off a few hundered yards down the road from home so the carbs were empty by the time I was home, saved the leaky carb stain on the engine and the smell of spilt petrol, and meant if the problem were bad I could pour neat redex into the carbs down the petrol pipe which often fixed the leak. I found k3 carbs were worst for gumming up or sticking, but gave the best economy.

[peterengland]

I don't really over winter as such, I just ride the bike whenever the roads are dry enough

[Lobo]

For 'serious' / long term storage anyone care to comment on the pricey 'bags' versus glad wrapping your bike (seriously, like airports offer to wrap your suitcases!) with perhaps one of those de-humidifying packs sitting atop of the gearbox.

http://www.vac-bag.co.uk/index.php?_a=product&product_id=5

Two concerns, hence my posting, (1) will these dehumidifying packs (from Homebase etc) have any effect on the metals... there must be a chemical reaction of sorts going on & (2) the Glad Wrap would be tight up against certain components (exhaust etc)... no air circulation... good or bad?

I did wrap my 400 engine this way for 6 months storage last year - seemed fine, and currently have a complete set of exhausts stored this way... what will time tell?

Thoughts / comments?

... um, the below a pic of my Glad Wrap'd engine... you'll have to use your imaginations!

[Trigger]

Just found this interesting question. One of the best ways to protect chrome over winter is good old Vaseline, then hot jet wash off in spring. Engine can be coated in WD40. Fill the tank, Not empty it. Apply a good wax to paint work. And I've found a good blow out to the carbs with a air line is good enough. If you want to spend money,try Storeacar who charge from £8.50 to for dehumidified per week. Or upset the wife by storing it in her kitchen.

[tom400f]

So when talking about redex, which product is it for keeping the carb internals clean?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchCmd?srch=redex&action=search&storeId=10001&catalogId=10151&langId=-1