750 wheel rebuilding Help!!!

[UK Pete]

I want to build up my wheels starting with the back, has anyone done this , is it easy, where do i start?
pete

[mickwinf]

Pete I have done it a couple of times now, I would recommend using quality DID rims and made to measure spokes, plenty of how-to help on the internet, just take your time.

[UK Pete]

I have got all the parts, its just a matter of finding a step by step build thread preferably with photo's, i bookmarked  someones wheel build thread once but have lost it,
pete

[Trigger]

Pete, This vid is basic but to the point: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENrRl2FyNTw

[UK Pete]

Thanks trigger, also i have just found the thread i was looking for http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=19575.0
this is quite clear to follow, it seems the hard part is truing, i dont have a dial gauge so i will buy one before i start
pete

[Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP)]

Pete
It is easy if you know what you are doing like all things.Many moons ago I used to do this as I did insurance prangs etc.What I do remember is we had a wheel jig and it made it so easy.
First you take care of the up and down of the rim and then left and right but in those days the genuine rims and spokes made it all easy dont know today.Some guys have used there front end for the front and I have seen a swinging arm in a vice of some sorts to do the rear.Personally I find it much easier to get a wheel builder to supply and fit, it is an art.Practice on an old push bike wheel and you will see it is really not that hard.
Cheers
Bitsa

[Ewan 500 K1]

Hi Pete .... desription of what I did with photos on near the bottom of page 3 of my build thread at http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?topic=4120.30  It was my first time an I didnt find it that hard

[MarkCR750]

Hi Pete, I guess you want to build the wheels yourself because you will enjoy the process but if you wanted to use the time for other jobs its not expensive to farm the job out, central wheels charged me £136 per wheel including stainless butted spokes and plated brass nipples , probably cheaper elsewhere, Rob at racing lines commented that they had made a nice job and that he had paid £90 for the same work 20 years ago!.

[Bryanj]

Pete you dont need a dial gauge they are more accurate than ever needed, Honda only trued to 1/8 inch!!!

Just a piece of welding wire clamped so its close to the rim is all you need BUT take note of where the rim is welded together as trying to true out the kink caused there will send you to the looney bin mate.

As a hint separate the spoke into the 2 types and only fit the 20 where you can see the head on the outside of the hub, when you have it true on those 20, which is a lot easier as there are less to play with, you fit the other 20 by feeding them through and getting all the tensions equal

[Lobo]

No ideas who 'Josh' is... but found this on the I'Net ... some useful tips. (well, for me at least)

Rim Truing:   This is how to true them ON the bike with the TIRES on (TO GET IT INTO THE BALLPARK OR NEARLY PERECT)...though they say it can't be done properly this way.
     
     Well, here's what you'll need: A spoke wrench, a jack, a beer (if you don't drink now you may before you're done), crayons, a rag, and something to sit on.
     
     I like to take the chain off & start with the rear wheel. Inflate to 30 or so psi. OK…now grab a light-colored crayon & spin the wheel real fast. If it drags, try loosening up your drum-drake adjustment for now. 1st we’ll check for lateral movement of the rim (side-to- side). Hold the crayon in your fist & find something solid to rest you fist on. Slowly advance the crayon in towards the sidewall allowing it only to touch the high spots. Stop rim & do the other side. Next, we’ll check for longitudal movement (up-and-down). Same thing…spin it, but this time mark the center of the tread using the middle of the rear fender as the stationary object. *If your tire is on the rim crooked, this will not work & you will need to re-seat the tire* If you have nothing but solid lines, your wheel is straight. You just need to check for spoke torque—read below and extract the info as it applies to you.
     
     Crooked rim people: This is hard to explain in words, but here goes…I like to work the “hop” out of the wheel 1st (longitudal).  If your high spot covers most of the tire’s circumference, then you probably have some tight spokes in the area where there is no crayon mark. (I like to lightly tap the spokes with the wrench to get an idea how tight the spokes are in comparison to the rest. You’ll know when you hear one that’s way too tight or too loose….tight is high- pitched, and a loose spoke may not hum at all…just a flat metal sound.) If you have only 1 or 2 short marks on the tire, the spokes adjacent to these marks may be too loose. **IMPORTANT** Whatever adjustments you make to the left spokes must be made to the right or you’ll pull the rim to one side too far and throw off the lateral alignment. Too much torque in a series of spokes will cause a low- spot (or flat-spot) in the longitudal alignment…you’ll pull the rim into the shape of an egg or worse. Work by 1/4 turns…depending on how badly you rim is out of whack, and use the tapping method often to check for tone. The tones do not have to be perfect...just attack the seriously loose or tight ones.
     
     Lateral adjustment: You’ll have to erase all previously marked areas (frequently) with the rag & have some beer…you can also use the beer to moisten the rag. Now the hop is gone, and you’ve got some side-to-side wobble. Re-mark the tire with crayon. Find the mark on the left & loosen the left spokes a bit… then tighten the right spokes in that same area. Do te same for the marks on the right. Do so in small increments so you do not create “hop” all over again. Keep tapping & listening, erasing marks, drinking, and re-marking the wheel. Once you’ve got everything near perfect…you’ll need to check for hop again. Keep trying & you’ll get it. The front tire is the same, but you'll want to jack the front wheel of the ground in order to spin it. Take the disc brake off if it's dragging too much for you. 
     
     If all goes well you'll now be drunk, have 2 straight wheels, and brakes that need to be assembled / adjusted. Sleep off the beer, do the brakes, check tire pressure & go for a smoooothe ride. Josh

[ka-ja]

Hi,
    Bare in mind that wheel trueing with the tyres on could cause future problems if the thread on the spoke (unseen due to the tyre) protrudes into the inner tube area and causes a puncture! ken