Starting the engine

[Lobo]

Hi El_burro,... and sorry fellas... just seen two more posts since I started penning this... but I'll be darned if I delete it!!!

Forget the 'T' mark, its irrelevant in terms of what you're trying to achieve... it's simply an indicator that the associated pistons are at TDC (top dead centre).
What you're only concerned with is the 'F' (firing) mark, as the spark actually fires here at idle, ie a few degrees before TDC.

So, and IMPORTANT!!!  as the F mark sweeps clockwise past the index mark, AT THIS PRECISE point the associated points begin to OPEN... ie, if you have that fag paper gripped in them... it will release here.


To recap then...

(1) ignoring all markings / indexes, just rotate the crankshaft to whatever position opens the 1/4 point widest. Now via the 1/4 POINTS individual backplate, adjust this gap to 0.012-0.016 ".... OR 0.3-0.4mm

(2) Now you can turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the index & F 1:4.....

(3) Now rotate the whole points backplate (3 screws need loosening) .... fiddling it forward & backwards to just get that sweet spot where it releases the fag paper at the F 1:4
(If you can't achieve this rotational position there is something fundamentally wrong.)

(4) Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, ... and double check the fag paper releases precisely as the F 1:4 sweeps past the index mark.
If not repeat from step 2 above.

(5) Rotate the crankshaft to any position that opens breakers 2:3 to their widest position, and set these to 0.012-0.016" etc

(6) Rotate the crankshaft to align the F 2:3 index, and now move the MINI backplate of those points so that they JUST RELEASE the fag paper here.... fiddley.. will take a few goes to get it right.

(7) Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, ... and double check the fag paper releases precisely as the F 2:3 sweeps past the index mark.

I apologise to be repeating, but you do seem a little confused as to their sequence. Can I suggest you do use (eg) fag paper.... for now it's a whole lot simpler than extra wires.... and will be fine in terms of just getting the engine to run.

Oh, and yup, whilst messing with the points you would expect to see the odd spark between them...

Simon

[K2-K6]

I may be wrong but I can't see the 400 mech stopping you from running the engine.....it may have a different state of advance that will affect good running but should be ok to run the motor and check it out......something to correct with the right part later during rebuild I guess.

It looks as though you are steadily getting there as you've been through the coils/feeds/switches etc, there must be a point at which you've eliminated most things.....bit of a crash course in ignition systems really.....and all worth it when it fires.

[El__burro]

FINALLY.
I HAVE SPARKS ON THE PLUGS.
thanks indeed for your support, now what is the next step.
Tomorrow ill put the plugs and try to fire it up.

Hopefully it wont take another week.

Thank you.
El__burro

[mike the bike]

Great news.  What was the problem?

[El__burro]

A bit of everything.
Mainly i was trying to get the points to be opened at the proper gap af the F mark.
Eventually went back through all your answers and set it right.
Eventually there'll be more questions tomorrow.
Thanks a lot

[K2-K6]

Yay, at least you're getting somewhere and nice to get some sparks out of it....well done.

Next step is to make absolutley sure that you have established a good oil supply to the motor/pump/cam etc....has it got the oil light going?

If you are confident it's ok then it would be worth trying it to see if it'll fire.

[Nurse Julie]

Well done you. I felt like shedding a tear for you at times. I have been watching this post with interest, only understanding the very, very basics of it due to my limited knowledge but I have learnt an awful lot, thanks 

[paul G]

Well done for sticking at it persistence pays off. 

[El__burro]

Thanks, never give up. As long as you all don't give up on me.
Oil light is off but having drained all the oil via the plug in the sump, I better check that properly.
Also I need to find a way to feed the fuel.

Thanks
El__burro

[K2-K6]

Fuel feed, i've always used a 150ml syringe outer case stuck down the pipe to the carbs as you can fill the float bowls via this and when it's running you can see the level going down.....use elastic band to hold it vertically on the main frame tube.

[Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP)]

Are we working on hairdryers or something? elastic bands really?
Cheers
Bitsa

[Trigger]

Well done you. I felt like shedding a tear for you at times. I have been watching this post with interest, only understanding the very, very basics of it due to my limited knowledge but I have learnt an awful lot, thanks 

Shed a tear? someone get me a bucket

[Nurse Julie]

Well done you. I felt like shedding a tear for you at times. I have been watching this post with interest, only understanding the very, very basics of it due to my limited knowledge but I have learnt an awful lot, thanks 

Shed a tear? someone get me a bucket

Oh do shut up Trigger, I would cry for you to  I am a sensitive soul and feel others pain and frustration 

[Trigger]

Well done you. I felt like shedding a tear for you at times. I have been watching this post with interest, only understanding the very, very basics of it due to my limited knowledge but I have learnt an awful lot, thanks 

Shed a tear? someone get me a bucket

Oh do shut up Trigger, I would cry for you to  I am a sensitive soul and feel others pain and frustration 

I sensitive nurse ? Did not think there was such a thing

[K2-K6]

Elastic bands, yep I couldn't think of anything proppa to use  not like those things real mechanics have nowadays like a hospital drip to feed petrol in.