Ignition dilemma

[Rumpelkrankshaft]

Interesting mix of replies,points lead by a short head. Now I have to make a decision! Will advise outcome in due course,thank you all for your replies.

[Bryanj]

If you are going to do a lot of miles go electronic, if like most on here less than 1500 per anum stay points but maybe with Hondamans kit

[peterengland]

I get the geniune Honda popint from DS and have had no problem with them, only the bloody cork gasket that seems to become misshapen easily.

[Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP)]

Agreed with the cork bit,as mine are only ridden in the sun done away with it got a shed load of em somewhere
Cheers
Bitsa

[Rumpelkrankshaft]

In full agreement re the gasket

[fisjon]

Boyer gives smoother tick-over, better acceleration, better mpg, better performance. END OF!

All due to a huge big fat bright blue spark always fired a the right time. The Honda points system is like a wet fart (a tiny little yellow putt) compared to the Boyer. If you haven't seen a Boyer spark to compare, you can't make a comparison. No contest. Those of you stating that the points system is better are just harking back to the 70's for the hell of it. Wise up guys. Oh, and maintenance free!

[Lobo]

.... just be aware, any electronic sys you fit will likely need a relay including into the circuit: a fatter spark doesn't come for free. The fatter spark will draw a higher current through the system, and my Newtronic H04 certainly recommended this as the Kill Switch was not designed to carry the increased load.

That said, not a big job to include... if you go this route will happily supply a fag-packet wiring diagram.

Simon

[Norniron]

.... just be aware, any electronic sys you fit will likely need a relay including into the circuit: a fatter spark doesn't come for free. The fatter spark will draw a higher current through the system, and my Newtronic H04 certainly recommended this as the Kill Switch was not designed to carry the increased load.

That said, not a big job to include... if you go this route will happily supply a fag-packet wiring diagram.

Simon

Please do Simon.i do recall u mentioning this in a previous post but I can't find it.

[Lobo]

Hi Norniron,

I'm having 2nd thoughts abouts my statement "Newtronic certainly recommended..." as I've since googled those instructions... and it doesn't! That said I do remember the actual fitting instructions came with an 'addendum slip'.... and it may have been there. Forgive me! Regardless; I have indeed read on other forums, fitting a relay is no bad thing due 40 yr old kill switches / increased current draw on these electronic ignitions... and this is what I have personally done.

Whether you do / don't is up to you, and it may well indeed be recommended by your unit. Bed time where I am... tomorrow will post the simple wiring diag if you're still interested.

The post you were looking for might have been Bodds,
Cheers,
Simon.

http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,6955.msg39454.html#msg39454

[Norniron]

Yea simon,im still interested.dont want to be left broken down with a melted kill switch.
I have a dyna ignition on the 400 and im gonna put on the dyna coils soon.

[Lobo]

Hi Norniron,

Agreed... if you're going to fit higher spec coils you probably do need to 'offload' the poor old Kill Switch a bit.

A couple of comments, having slept a bit.

(1) some electronic ignitions (eg DSS offering) will use a 'full time' live supply (eg rear brake light black lead); and in this case will not be drawing any extra current through the kill switch. In other words, such systems do not really need extra relays.

(2) other electronic systems, such as my Newtronic, specifically state that their unit must NOT be permanently live, as damage would result.... much as leaving the coils ON when the bike's not running. Newtronic thus specify their unit is to be powered through the kill switch... I guess whether you then add in a relay to offload the kill switch is up to you. (I have)

(3) If you're going to be replacing the coils with non-OEM high Perf units.... a relay is almost certainly advised.

(4) Electronic ignitions have a minimum voltage requirement, and below this 'will not play ball'. I can't remember, but it is normally specified, and around 9v as I recall. A relay suffers the same problem, ie requires a minimum voltage to operate, so don't go choosing one with an 11v threshold! (I think they're all arounds 9v to be honest).
Point is though, if the battery is seriously depleted you're not going anywhere.... even bump starting will not help. On a poorly bike, using the starter motor may drop the voltage below critical too..

(5) in my diagram connections 86/85 can be reversed, and connections 30/87 can be reversed... it doesn't matter.

I've included a typical relay link.... tho' they're avail all over, Maplins, Halfords etc... if wanting to get technical (yawn) you're after a 12vDC / 5A (minimum) SP/ST/NO. (single pole, single throw, normally open). It'll have 4 connections...

Hope this helps,
Simon

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/169/category/36

[matthewmosse]

I don't think my boyer system ( stock coils but replaces points ) reccomended a relay. One thing I would say about relay useage. My Bmw twins were both fully loaded with relays to protect the switchgear, especially the ex police bmw. At 90,000 miles for the ex plod bike and about 75,000 for the other the switchgear was in pretty poor shape. No end of electrical issues. Swichgear itself on the bmw machines was by tec, same as my 500/4 I belive? Anyhow the point I am comming to is that my 500/4 completed double the milage of either of the bmw machines and all the switchgear has remained reliable, totally reliable. The bmw stuff had the benefits of relay protection and yet both the relays and switchgear were the cause of may hours fault finding and a couple of Aa recoveries when things like the headlights decided to play the no worky game when out on long ride outs. This inevitability means I think if you can get away with it, then avoid unnecessary complication. In short I think I would start by checking no relays are required with any electronic ignition. On my cb500/4 I have 2 ignition circuits, one being remotely controlled by the keyfob. Not only does this mean you can start the bike from the comfort of your own home and come out to  a ready warmed engine, but before now I have blown the bikes main fuse, and not had to stop or pull over, I was able to pull in the clutch, and restart using the remote. Also handy for scaring the living daylights out of passers by, when the bike apparently starts itself as they walk past.

[Norniron]

Thanks simon for your time trouble and knowledge.
Very much obliged
David

[Trigger]

Thanks simon for your time trouble and knowledge.
Very much obliged
David

Are you learning about electrics mate

[Norniron]

Thanks simon for your time trouble and knowledge.
Very much obliged
David

Are you learning about electrics mate

Trying to trig