Taper roller bearings

[UK Pete]

I was looking at my new taper roller bearings for my F2 which came from dave silvers, they come without instructions ,not much of a problem but there is a big thick washer that has the same internal diameter as the lower bearing, would any one know if i have to use this, the thin original one and the rubber seal, or just the new thick one and rubber seal. or do i have to use the thick new one atall
Pete

[Spitfire]

I got my taper roller kit from DSS for the F1 and used the new thick washer only, my rubber seal vanished years ago, but I think it is supposed to be used looking at mine.





Cheers

Den

[Spitfire]

Just found this.

Cheers

Den

[UK Pete]

I just put all mine together and i think it would of worked better with the old thin washer and rubber, it seems like the top bearing is too thick and does not sit far enough down in the head, so when assembled there is only four or five threads of the top stem poking through. if i had used the old thin washer i would have had 3 of more threads , i dont think this head bearing kit is worked out very  well for the F2
Pete

[Spitfire]

That will go in the memory bank for when I get that far with my F2, you wouldn't think there would be that much difference.

Cheers

Den

[Yoshi823]

It may well be worth contacting Dave Silvers with your experience of this kit Peter...just so's others don't get the same results.

[andut]

... resurecting an old thread as I've hit a similar problem !

I'm fitting a DSS taper brg kit to my 400F2 steering column.  The thickness of the new tapered lower brg was a little thinner than the original ballrace, so I used the washer (about 2mm) that came with the kit and a dust shield which made the new lower brg about 1mm thicker than the original. 

Top brg appears to be seated, but sticks out of the top of the headstock by a few mm as per Spitfire's photos above and I can now only get a couple of turns on the top nut after pulling the brgs home as much as possible (had to use the top yoke nut and spacers to pull the column up into the headstock before I coud get the steering nut on) & backing the nut off to allow the steering to turn.  I've only got the yokes fitted without forks or wheel, so I'm sure with the added weight of the front end, I'll be able to get another half turn or so on the nut and still have free movement.

Has anyone else had similar experience ?

I'm hoping a few miles will further bed things in and allow me another thread or so no the steering nut - does that sound likely ?

The thought of pulling the new tapered brg & washer off of the steering column does not fill me with joy !

Thanks again for any help or advice !  Andy

[martin_uk]

I believe that the size of lower washer/shim depends on the comparison with the bearing stack from original set up.

With mine I assembled the old  races with ball bearings and compared to the thickness of the new taper roller and seat,

I did not need the thick washer.

You need to make sure steering stops align and if there is a steering lock that this can engage into stem.

The top taper race does sit higher, so may need to use extra O rings or rubber washers when fitting tube type headlight mounts.

[martin_uk]

found this which may help

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=144348.0

[andut]

Thanks Martin,

I did use the old brg as a benchmark, and it was taller than the new tapered brg on it's own, and then shorter than the tapered brg with washer, but only by about 1mm, so I went with the washer !

Strg lock stops do engage as it is and the steering lock also works, so I can't be far out, but I'd rather have a few more threads engaged on the steering nut above the top brg !  I'm assuming it will bed in and give me a bit more once it's been in use - fingers crossed !

Andy

[martin_uk]

Hi Andy
Its unlikely that bearings will bed in unless the races are not fully seated.

The rubber seal should not be in between the lower bearing and lower yoke seating ie not stopping it fully seating.

I like to use an aluminium or brass drift as doesnt damage.

You should  hear the change in note when it is fully seated.

Maybe also have a look at the top adjuster to see what is stopping you threading on fully.

There are some things you can take a chance on but steering is not one I would recommend.

[royhall]

I had this problem a few months ago. This thread may help. http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,6987.0.html    Cheers

[andut]

Thanks Roy ! 

I did read your thread earlier and ordered the same dust seal with steel inner, so it sounds as if I have the same set up of steel washer on the steering column, then the dust seal with steel inner and then the lower brg.

Do you recall if you had many threads showing above the top brg when you fitted the top adjusting nut ?  That's the worry I have - I can only get a few turns on the adjuster nut without over-tightening the steering.  Both outer races are seated in the frame, so I'm debating if a few turns of the top nut is OK, or if I need to start again and remove the lower brg from the steering column and refit without the steel washer at the base of the assembly - could be fun !

Andy

[royhall]

If I remember correctly, the nut threaded all the way on. Looking at the pictures of your top bearing, mine was way further into the headstock. Don't think yours is driven home fully. I may be wrong about this (cant just remember) but I don't think I used the spacer washer at all. Cant really check on that now its all together, Trigger will know!! From what I can see in the pictures the bike is looking good.

[andut]

Ok, I'm convinced it's not right and it has to be !!  Managed to use the bottom edge of the thick washer to gently tap the new brg most of the way off of the steering column without damage, but then the drift slipped a bit under the rag I was using and I now have a slignlty damaged brg cage - bugger !

New brg now ordered together with a thinner lower washer, so hopefully I should be able to get a closer match between the old ballrace and new (again!) tapered brg stack heights.

Andy