Author Topic: Rear axle setup help  (Read 7047 times)

Offline JustcallmeMrT

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Re: Rear axle setup help
« Reply #15 on: June 08, 2015, 10:45:50 AM »
I'll check it out Bryan.  The swingarm is definitely 550, but looks like the spacers may be the issue.  Will get it sorted in the end!

Offline Bryanj

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Re: Rear axle setup help
« Reply #16 on: June 08, 2015, 05:27:03 PM »
Don't forget the brake plate is different as well, they will swap one way round but not the other as there is a difference on the outer diameter as well as the "Hump" the spindle goes through

Offline JustcallmeMrT

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Re: Rear axle setup help
« Reply #17 on: June 08, 2015, 06:19:19 PM »
Don't forget the brake plate is different as well, they will swap one way round but not the other as there is a difference on the outer diameter as well as the "Hump" the spindle goes through
That may be part of it then.  The rear wheel and brake plate I used was bought off eBay and I don't know it's exact provenance.  Is there an easy way to tell the difference?

Offline matthewmosse

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Re: Rear axle setup help
« Reply #18 on: June 08, 2015, 07:20:02 PM »
If there is a missmatch it will probably be in the form of the wheel not turning once the spindle is done up tight. I wouldn't worry about miss matched components too much at this stage, just get everything lined up, eg chain run streight, and wheels in line front and rear. I think about 50% of the bikes I own(ed), mostly the cb500 and 550s had some sort of gap issue on the rear wheel and swing arm but beyond bunging in the odd washer to keep it all alighned I have never let it bother me, often the swing arm flexes in a few mm when I tighten the rear spindle, as long as it ends up in line the bike handles fine, passes mot's etc, if fussed about the washers being unsightly, measure the spacers plus washers, get someone with a lathe to turn up a spacer the right length. Job done.
Got a 500/4 with rust and a sidecar and loadsa bits. nice and original and been round the clock

Offline deltarider

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Re: Rear axle setup help
« Reply #19 on: June 09, 2015, 07:12:12 AM »
I read this thread with interest. On my CB500 I discovered there's some play that causes the part (flange final drive?) on which the rearsprocket sits to move a mm or so out of the hub when rotated and because it is irregular it causes a not nice running drivechain. I haven't figured out what exactly is the origin. I seem to remember having seen that the collar rear wheel side was irregularly worn (but... because of what???) and having seen some iron dust there. Could that collar somehow be the culprit. Is there a possibility to help this with a washer somewhere?
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I think about 50% of the bikes I own(ed), mostly the cb500 and 550s had some sort of gap issue on the rear wheel and swing arm but beyond bunging in the odd washer to keep it all alighned I have never let it bother me, often the swing arm flexes in a few mm when I tighten the rear spindle, as long as it ends up in line the bike handles fine, passes mot's etc, if fussed about the washers being unsightly, measure the spacers plus washers, get someone with a lathe to turn up a spacer the right length
I wonder if Matthewmosse recognises my problem. Dealers are not much help: one said there should be a third bearing somewhere and another I talked to on the phone said I needed a new flange and they're bloody expensive. Help is appreciated.
« Last Edit: June 09, 2015, 07:21:50 AM by deltarider »

Offline Trigger

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Re: Rear axle setup help
« Reply #20 on: June 09, 2015, 05:20:25 PM »
You can also get wear and movement from some after market sprockets  ;)

Offline deltarider

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Re: Rear axle setup help
« Reply #21 on: June 10, 2015, 07:41:21 AM »
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Deltarider, try removing the rear bearing retainer on your wheel, the sprocket carrier is meant to have some grease on the surface where it meets the wheel boss, the reason for this is because as the dampers which cushion the sprocket carriers are crushed under acceleration etc the carrier itself moves very slightly forward, if there is no lubricant between the 2 surfaces you get wear, this could be where the metal dust is coming from, if there is enough wear the carrier will start to fluctuate and the sprocket will start to oscillate, meaning more chain wear and noise.
This could well be the case. A long time ago I renewed the rearwheel bearings and I can't remember... that bearing retainer is supposed to fasten that flange to the hub, right? There's also a possibility I haven't screwed that retainer in all the way. Anyway, I suppose I have to look for another flange.
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I presume you've still got the sprocket dish fitted?

Yes, does that play a role here?


Offline deltarider

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Re: Rear axle setup help
« Reply #22 on: June 10, 2015, 03:23:20 PM »
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If the bearing retainer isn't tight then you will get sprocket float as the entire cush drive is moving around, best get that sorted ASAP as the chain may come off if it gets to a certain point.
Thanks again. So the retainer needs to lie flush (is that the word?)

Offline deltarider

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Re: Rear axle setup help
« Reply #23 on: August 07, 2015, 09:15:45 AM »
Oddjob, you were right about the sprocketcarrier and as you can see I brought the problem to the international SOHC-forum: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,150358.msg1716136.html#msg1716136
At the moment the key question is: why are these 4 crossradial grooves in there? The reason I ask is this: if they're ment as wear indicators, it might help me find a good secondhand one.

Offline deltarider

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Re: Rear axle setup help
« Reply #24 on: August 07, 2015, 05:32:00 PM »
Not a trace of wear on the steel boss of the hub. I have no idea what steel that inner part of the sprocket carrier is made of.

 

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