Front brake

[Bryanj]

Before condemning them try riding a 1960 t120!

[Green1]

It might be worth checking a few basics before modifying.

Is the pivot seized
Do the hoses bulge
Are the pads seized in the caliper
Are the pads contaminated
Are the pads bedded in

I've had the pivot seize twice and it makes a noticeable difference, it's worth cleaning it every service.

Agree with totty 100% rough up the pads and disk and degrease it makes a massive difference.
Thee pivot also has to be perfect.
The brakes aren't actually that bad there's just a lack of feel at the leaver you've just got to remember your on a 70's bike. 

Mick
 

[Norniron]

Might look at gathering the bits and pieces for a twin disc set up. Previous owner obviously thought  the same about the brake perfomance  as the ******* advertised some parts for a twin disc conversion  on here a week after I had bought it rather than throw them in with the bike. Think they turned out to be wrong anyway!

It was me that bought it!
Yea u r correct,the caliper was for a 750

[mike the bike]

With a seized pivot it's like having half a brake - not good.  I always keep it greased up with copperslip.

[wolfheze]

Forgive my ignorance but is the pivot the thing that allows the caliper to slide sideways?

[Chris400F]

With a seized pivot it's like having half a brake - not good.  I always keep it greased up with copperslip.

I may be wrong, but I thought Copperslip is intended to be used for assembling items which when in service do not move relative
to one another. It is not a lubricant but an anti-seize compound. Earlier this year I recall Julie had a problem with a worn pivot
which she put down to being due to a previous owner having used copper grease on the pivot. I would use 'normal' grease for this.
Agree that a seized pivot is not good - I have had that problem in the past.

[matthewmosse]

Pivot is the bit that bolts to the fork leg ( well 2 bits that together form a T ) and then the leg of the T passes through the arm that holds the caliper. The thing nedds to be well greased and does like to get stiff or wear and rattle loose. Like I say, given a good service the brake can lock that front wheel in near standard form even carrying considerable load on the machine - 3 adults and luggage on one occasion and I still managed to momenterily lock the front wheel. Check the pads are not glazed, and perhaps even try a few different makes of pads.

[Green1]

I have DSS cheapo pads roughed up with 40 grit sandpaper scratch the disk in a random criss cross pattern and use corrosion block grease   http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm on the pivot and a small amount on the back of the piston.
Brakes well and no squeaky brakes to date.

My experience with copper grease and brakes is never good overtime the grease dries out and goes hard causing the brakes to stick.
I have rebuilt my callipers on my truck and used copper grease on one side and corrosion block on the other almost a year on the side I used copper grease on has just started to bind where as the other side is still good. 

Mick

[mike the bike]

I was recommended to use copperslip by a bike mechanic and I've used it for years with no bother..  If it seizes up I'll know why.

[Ashdowner]

My first K3 had an original disk and I always thought it was ok - but then I drive within my limits. My latest K3 has a drilled disk on it and it possibly works a bit better - but I think it would be hard to lock it.