75 CB400 "Dad's old bike" project

[Chris400F]

I'm really loving this thread too. Great to see Jess getting so involved as well.

As Mike says beware the lower engine bolts as using one too long can result in a hole in the crankcase.
The bolt lengths are given in the Parts List, so that's useful to have.

And I have no doubt that you will have this bike back on the road again - your challenge could be to have it done by 2nd July!

[Pops400]

When the time comes put the engine back in, you know how it's done.  Just don't mix up the lower engine bolts.

Duly noted.  I'll certainly not be employing my cowboy method with a freshly painted lump and frame.  Sounds like a much better way to do it if I can't get help. Appreciate the advice.

[Pops400]

I am enjoying watching this build, keep up the good work and the pictures coming. If you think the 400 is a heavy engine, wait till you get to lift a 750 out. 

I dread to think. I don't think my back would fancy that. 

Thanks for the kind comments. 

[Pops400]

Brilliant account of how you're getting on and something to look back at when you get to ride it.

Just a bit to add to the ad-hoc approach,  a friend of mine always uses a slab of that rigid building insulation instead of cardboard as if you drop something like the engine it won't snap any delicate bits like fins off it.

Also if you need to support the engine at any angle for storing or dismantling then an old car tire let's it sit securely at any angle you need without toppling over.

I've two  kids and don't think you can beat doing anything together really, I remember alot of stuff the same with my father and the fond memories it brings.
You're doing a fine job,  it'll just take time to work through it but well worth it in the end.

Thanks for the kind comments.

Yep, the insulation sounds a good idea, wish I'd thought of that. I really wouldn't recommend this method at all, though, unless you have a complete knacker, or one that was clearly owned by Coco the Clown at some point, like mine. 

[Pops400]

I'm really loving this thread too. Great to see Jess getting so involved as well.

As Mike says beware the lower engine bolts as using one too long can result in a hole in the crankcase.
The bolt lengths are given in the Parts List, so that's useful to have.

And I have no doubt that you will have this bike back on the road again - your challenge could be to have it done by 2nd July!

Cheers Chris. Good info from you and Mike about the bolts, committed to memory. Will almost certainly be ordering a complete engine bolt kit in the immediate future, these have all seen better days and most all have been hit with the aforementioned Coco's comedy hammer...

I don't think July is feasible, sadly. If time allows, I'm afraid funds won't. Think I'm beginning to accept it as a long term build, sadly. It will be beg steal and borrow of facilities to clean, prep and paint plus parts bin rummaging where possible, so could take a while.

First stop, lots of mocking up before I go cutting and welding, so it's decision time on the front end next.

[Chris400F]

Will almost certainly be ordering a complete engine bolt kit in the immediate future ....

Just to clarify, it's the engine mounting bolts I was referring to.
The lower left in particular is the one to watch, if the bolt is too long it will go through the casing.
The Parts List seems pretty comprehensive in terms of bolt size and length information.

[Pops400]

Yes, I understood Chris,was working on the assumption that mounting bolts would be included in a kit, but thinking about it, I guess they would probably be separate. 

[onethumb]

Another job done. Nice one.

Just my two cents on putting it back in as I did my 750 on Friday, I bought two bags of klin dried sand then put a old blanket on top, drop the engine on its side and placed it on top of the sand and abracadabra instant helper. Piece of cake.


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[Pops400]

Quite a good idea, Steve, but to be honest it was a fair wrestle to get it out, so I don't think I'm going to risk damaging anything. Will probably enlist help on the day and do it upright.

[mike the bike]

Upright is a better way.  it means the frame is relatively stable while you carry out the fiddly task of getting the engine in without chipping the paint or breaking fins.

[Pops400]

Yes, that's pretty much the way I am looking at it, Mike. 

[andut]

I used some pipe lagging to cover the frame tubes and then installed the rebuilt bottom end into the frame before assembling barrels and head on the bike - makes the engine refit a much lighter job !

An exciting time when things start to go back together and the 'to do list' starts to get shorter !

Andy

[Pops400]

Sounds an interesting way around it, Andy. I'm a good way off yet, so plenty of time to plan it.

[Pops400]

Managed to get some more time to get the frame stripped today. Frustrating day all round, but did get done.

First of the dumb questions - I assume this is simply a steering lock, but with no keys and not having a bloody clue what I'm doing, how the hell do I get it out? Didn't seem any obvious way and nothing in the manual that I could find. (Not that surprised as it's for security, I guess...)

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[mike the bike]

The lock is held in by the domed head rivet and the washer.  Try removing the rivet with wire cutters or pincers, save for re use.  Once that's out of the way you need the key to remove the lock.   As you haven't got one then you'll have to drill it out.   Take care not to snap the bit.