75 CB400 "Dad's old bike" project

[Pops400]

Whilst we pondered how the hell to get the steering lock out, set about the front end removal. Holy cow, the top bolt was a nightmare. Having dropped the lump before trying to loosen it, I found I couldn't get enough leverage on it before the whole frame just moved. Tried everything to hold it, including lying it down and standing on it!  Clearly need to put weight on...

Anyway, quick call to the cavalry and a breaker bar later and finally got it loose. I'm starting to wonder if some of this might be salvageable now though.

Pulled the springs and... er... Milky milky!!! 

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[Pops400]

The lock is held in by the domed head rivet and the washer.  Try removing the rivet with wire cutters or pincers, save for re use.  Once that's out of the way you need the key to remove the lock.   As you haven't got one then you'll have to drill it out.   Take care not to snap the bit.

Had an horrible feeling it may be drilling it out.  Will get the drill out next week, then. Cheers, Mike.

[Pops400]

Dropped the front out, whilst giving Jess a lecture about not losing the head bearings, so of course having let her carefully get the top lot out into a tin, I slipped and the whole lot dropped and fired the bottom lot all over the workshop! 

Much "fun" was had chasing them round the floor and getting ribbed by the girl... D'oh!

Parked the rest of the front up complete, as it is going to take some jiggery pokery to get it apart, everything rusted in. Moved on to getting the swinging arm out, no huge issues there, but the centre stand turned into a nightmare. Nothing in my manual about removal, am I missing something?!? 

Looks to me like a hollow tube, one end flared, but it doesn't want to pull out. I tried putting a socket against the non-flared end and using the gentle persuading stick (FBH) but it only moves a few mm. Is there a trick to this?

This is all I can see to push

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and the flared end...

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[Pops400]

Not sure you can see properly from those photos, but sure you lot will know what I mean, having done it before.

[Pops400]

Frame finally stripped (apart from the steering lock and the centre stand...) finally able to see the full horror of the starting point.

A selection of the worst bits, below. 

What do you say about this? Just completely split apart.
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Looks like the whole tube has been split / cut / welded at some point. Think it will just have to be cut out and start again.

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Guessing this shouldn't have that bend in it. 

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Just look how this is folded over.

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[mike the bike]

Most people bin the old bearings in favour of taper roller bearings so no worries there. 
Getting that centre stand pivot out brings back memories.   It's been there for decades catching all the road crap and salt ; it isn't going to drop out easily.   
It needs lots of heat,  oil, heat, oil,  persuasion,  more heat, oil.
I sawed the flanged part off and bought a replacement.   Still had to remove the remains of the old one.

[Chris400F]

The lock is held in by the domed head rivet and the washer.  Try removing the rivet with wire cutters or pincers, save for re use.  Once that's out of the way you need the key to remove the lock.   As you haven't got one then you'll have to drill it out.   Take care not to snap the bit.

Had an horrible feeling it may be drilling it out.  Will get the drill out next week, then. Cheers, Mike.

I have replaced mine, had to drill it out as no key came with the bike.
It's not that difficult but there is a trick to it, will have a look and try and find the details for you.

[Chris400F]

This is the replacement lock I used:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LENKERSCHLOSS-Lenkschlos-Steering-lock-Serrure-de-cadre-f-div-Honda-KAWASAKI-/231962410367?hash=item3602097d7f:g:TG8AAOSwR5dXTVIv
It comes with full instructions including how to remove the old lock when you don't have the key, but I don't seem to have kept a copy.
Basically you need to drill the old lock (6mm from memory but may be wrong) then there is a pin you need to hook out to free the mechanism.

Also found this thread which may help:
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,4947.0.html

[Pops400]

Most people bin the old bearings in favour of taper roller bearings so no worries there. 

It was more the embarrassment factor having just given the lecture. 

If the stand just needs "persuasion", then that's OK, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something and about to break something irreparable.

[mike the bike]

  more the embarrassment factor 

Yeah, like the time I was repairing someone's washing machine.  I was tightening up an M8 bolt when the smart alec customer asked what torque I was tightening up to.
I replied (even more smart alec) " I just tighten it till the bolt snaps then back it off half a turn"
Then...the bolt snapped!

"Oh, I see" he says,  "How are you going to loosen it now?"

FFS.  thinks I.

[Pops400]

  Love it.

[Pops400]

This is the replacement lock I used:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LENKERSCHLOSS-Lenkschlos-Steering-lock-Serrure-de-cadre-f-div-Honda-KAWASAKI-/231962410367?hash=item3602097d7f:g:TG8AAOSwR5dXTVIv
It comes with full instructions including how to remove the old lock when you don't have the key, but I don't seem to have kept a copy.
Basically you need to drill the old lock (6mm from memory but may be wrong) then there is a pin you need to hook out to free the mechanism.

Also found this thread which may help:
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,4947.0.html

Both excellent links, cheers Chris. 

Pleased that it looks cheap fix too. Have to admit, there was a temptation to just plug it and not use it... 

[Laverda Dave]

Back in the day it was well known all a tea-leaf had to do was to give a sharp left-right tug on the handlebars to break the steering lock and hey presto, your pride and joy has been stolen! I have replaced my steering lock with the one Chris described although I would never use it to secure the bike! I carry a length of ship anchor chain and a 20ft lamppost with me now when out on the bike, can't be careful enough 
On a more serious note, I would strongly recommend you get the frame checked for straightness once you have removed the centre stand pivot and completed the welding and before you paint it. You don't want to go to all that effort only to find the frame is bent when it's all completed. My Morini frame was twisted at the headstock by 2 degrees and so was the 400 I'm restoring now. £70 well spent in my opinion.
Keep posting the progress photos they keep us all going in the winter.

[Pops400]

Sound advice on the frame, Laverda-man, I definitely intend to. Where did you get it checked for £70? Sounds worth a look if they are specialist.

Good to know the progress is of interest. I will certainly keep posting my amateur hour attempts as long as I know I'm not talking to myself. 

[Woodside]

Keep posting.....im listening