TEST RIDE #1

[El__burro]

..so just the full set in my basket will do,
no other parts are needed to move from the 18 balls bearing to the new one?
Thanks a lot
el__burro

[hairygit]

That is correct, and they are so much easier to fit than loose balls, especially the bottom set!

[El__burro]

while I wait for the bearing to arrive, I have removed the old ones.
I had 17 balls on the top bearing and 15 on the bottom.
Hopefully this was the cause of the problem.

Until next update...
el__burro

[El__burro]

actually the set arrived just now.
anyone able to tell me in what order they go.

[K2-K6]

From the photo it looks like bottom row right into the bottom of the frame (headstock)  and the bottom middle onto the base of the steering stem BUT you'd have to get the seal on there first as it should turn and seal inside the frame aperture to prevent anything entering the bearings.

It's hard to see exactly which way the seal goes in without being there so you'll have to assess that yourself.

Once you get both of the outer tracks into the frame and seated,  you can push the steering stem into place and drop the top bearing into place. It looks as though you've got a dust seal for that end too so youll have to test fit it too see how it goes but looks from the photo to be cup side down. There is a chance that it's supplied with two seals to give an alternative fit to the bottom and none at all at the top, again, you'll have to decide what is what.

You can then put the top yoke on with none of the pinch bolts done up. Then tighten the main central clamping nut at the very top up to about 30lbs of torque while moving the steering left to right, this will pull the bearing seats into the frame properly. Then undo the nut and relighting to about 5lbs, this should set the steering to a very light smooth movement without slack left in it.

Then you can build the fork legs back into it for final assembled.

[El__burro]

i am looking at different videos and it seems like they all fit a thicker washer under number 4 rubber seal. (see picture above)
the old one i have is pretty thin, would it be ok?
thanks
el__burro

[K2-K6]

The. Original kits (years ago) used that thick spacer with a seal round the outside of it but I can't remember why they had that,  it may have been to bring the total bearing dimensions back to the same spec as the original fitment in terms of ending up with identical geometry to the factory bearings.

It's slightly difficult without being there in front of it but loosely I think this is what happens: the new roller bearing if put onto the stem without a spacer will move the whole assembly up into the bike so that when you put the top yoke on it will end up closer to the bottom one and to then get the fork legs level with the top yoke you will have to drop them relative to the bike which will lift the front of the frame. I know it sounds convoluted but they were trying to absolutely preserve the original geometry.

Technically speaking it shouldn't compromise the integrity of the assembly if you go without the thick spacer but you will get a minor change in steering geometry but no more than using a slightly different sized tire. Really in most cases a good setup with roller bearings is going to be much better that a worn original setup anyway.

[mike the bike]

You probably know anyway but.....  Use the old bearing shells to tap the new ones in place as they're the same diameter.

[El__burro]

Hello everyone,
going back to steering issue, having replaced the bearing hasn't improved much.
Looking at the bike it seems like the problem could be the electric cabling going to the headlights.
I feel friction when I turn right (so the cable gets stretched) and when I turn left i have the cable holding the movement.
I am trying to see the best routing option.
As per image attached, I have passed the (probably too big) bundle of wires just under the tank holder.
Is there a better way.

thanks
El__burro

[steff750]

  why have you got that switch there ?

[El__burro]

it's the kill switch.

[El__burro]

Sorted, it was the bundle of cables too large,
I removed a layer or 2 of the shrinking tube and now it has free movement.
Thanks.
el__burro