Honda-SOHC

Just stunning, I really hope this craft is getting passed on and some youngsters are taking this up as it would be a real shame if this craft was to die out.

While my tank and panels were away getting painted I took the opportunity to spruce up bits of the bike including giving the crankcase covers a repaint.

Before I took the clutch cover off to paint it, to make things easier when replacing, I measured the handlebar lever free play and the distance from the top of the adjuster on the clutch cover to the cover itself, I also removed the actuating arm housed in the triangular housing. I fitted all the covers back on today and set the measurements as they were .
However, when actuating the handlebar clutch lever after putting the bike into first or second gear, (without the engine running), the rear wheel will not turn, indicating to me that the clutch is not disengaging, I then tried readjusting from scratch just in case I had got the measurments wrong, but I am still getting the same problem.

 The only parts of the clutch mechanism that were dismantled were the cable adjusters and the small arm in the housing, and I am pretty confident the adjuster screw in the arm is set properly to "feel resistance and 1/4-1/2 turn back off". I am wondering if the plates are sticking as it hasn't been started for approx 6 months due to me sorting things out on it. I tried kicking over the bike and spinning it over on the starter motor with the bar clutch lever pulled in to see if would make a difference in case the plates were sticking, but it is just the same, I don't have fuel in the tank at the moment to try it on a running engine which may indeed have the speed to separate the plates if they are sticking.

Could sticking plates due to inactivity be the problem? or could it be something else be the issue?, remembering I did not touch the clutch basket itself just the outer cover.

Any help much appreciated.
Cheers

Not knocking Gary but those are not candy colours and for candy colours you really need a painter that has experience in applying that type of paint. Gary may have that or he may not, can’t say but it must be said nevertheless

Only trying to help regarding pricing as requested by thread starter.

The Triumph, has a metalflake/candy/ metallic 4 layer, type paint job, as can be seen in the picture,  I am not sure if that is classed as a candy job or whatever as it is not my field of expertise and I am quite happy to learn from people with more knowledge on the subject than I.

Without knocking anybody, it has to be said, nevertheless, that it is, in my opinion, a very
good paintjob.

Something I still do now (as well as rebuild older bikes) - mainly RC boats, recent ones completed - Titanic & Bismark & currently Hood under construction - struggling with hands & eyes though for the finer “bits”, age is a wonderful thing but with it comes problems - main reason I’ve given up on “larger” bikes!
Bruce

Now, they are superb, the work that must have gone into them is something else.

Thank you for your kind comments.

I gave it up in my late teens and took it up again in my early thirties after my girls were born just for something to do and give me a bit of time for myself, everybody else in the house was female, including the dog and guinea pigs, hamsters and quite possibly the fish as well , it could get a bit manic at times, now don't get me wrong, ladies are wonderful creatures, but when one of the aforementioned is 'debating' whether they were given permission to wear a certain item of clothing that belonged to the other it could get a bit raucous, I'm sure a good few will understand, to be honest when they moved out I missed it all .

I had a wee bit of a chuckle at something Nurse Julie mentioned,    "The final straw was when my Mum got the roast spuds out of the oven and found a wing transfer stuck to a roastie 😂😂😂😂, when my sister and I were clearing out my mother's house a few years ago, my sister shouted, "This will be yours!", and handed me a bowl with part of an RAF roundel stuck to it, it must have been there for well over 40 years stuck to the bowl.

Bruce said, "Puts my “plastic” efforts to shame!", I think that couldn't be futher from the truth, if you enjoy doing something that is the main thing, that's what gives you the pleasure and enjoyment,  sometimes doing all the detailing can have the opposite effect, it's not the first time I have lost the plot with something, 'just to get it right', it's not the first time and, I would imagine, not the last where I will just abandon something because it's not gone right and I get stressed with it when I should be enjoying it. Over Christmas there I did a FW190 straight out the box and thoroughly enjoyed doing it, and I can assure you I will be doing more like that.

My young grandson has done a couple with me, it was great, glue and paint all over the place, now that I thoroughly enjoyed, you ever seen a Tiger tank with a glitter camouflage?, doesn't matter we both enjoyed it.

If you think there are rivet counters in the bike world you haven't encountered the model world, I went to a club when I was about 19, never again, for me modelling and my bikes are for MY pleasure, not for someone to say x, y, or z is the wrong shade, if I want a glittery Tiger tank I shall have one.

I apologise for writing so long a reply, I went to write a line or two to say thanks for the kind words and got side tracked, the main thing is if you enjoy doing something, you do it, it's for your own pleasure and enjoyment, sometimes it helps if somethings not going right with the bike, I'll take a break and do a model or vice versa.

Do what you want to keep you sane

Thanks to all.

You lucky bleeder.

Definitely! , I was lucky enough to be given the bike kit a couple of years ago and the breakdown truck before that.
It might sound daft, but they are a great way to spend freezing days and nights when it too cold to go into the garage or go out for a walk .

A few Christmas's ago Sa

Thanks guys for your replies, to answer the questions above,

There is definitely no dot on the brake arm, it looks to me as if it's a new arm, going by the chrome.

There are definitely dots on the brake pedal and brake pedal spindle and the main spring is on correctly.

From K-2-K6' Also, there's usually some splines not formed on the spindle to give very limited range of choice in fitting, normally one spline move in each direction from it's "central" home position.

That should give you a default if lacking any other indicators,  central with a spare spline in each direction once fitted.

That's exactly it, there is a raised flat bit between the splines onto which the wear indicator cup fits and the brake lever gap fits directly onto that with, as you say a limited spline movement on either side, I should have spent some time figuring it out rather than thinking it might be difficult finding the correct position without a dot, but we got there in the end, so thanks very much guys.

The cam spindle was as dry as a, well you get the idea!, a quick strip down, clean of it and the backplate, a regrease and it is working freely, I also discovered both wheel spindles were dry so have greased both, also, the rubber washer that is meant to be a cushion between the torque arm and the brake plate was a bit of hard plastic on the outside of the torque arm, that has been replaced by a rubber washer between the arm and brakeplate. I am sure I'll find a few more things as I go along, don't we just love finding all these things on 40 year old bikes??

Anyway onto the next bit!

Cheers!