Clutch Enquiry

[rbt1548]

While my tank and panels were away getting painted I took the opportunity to spruce up bits of the bike including giving the crankcase covers a repaint.

Before I took the clutch cover off to paint it, to make things easier when replacing, I measured the handlebar lever free play and the distance from the top of the adjuster on the clutch cover to the cover itself, I also removed the actuating arm housed in the triangular housing. I fitted all the covers back on today and set the measurements as they were .
However, when actuating the handlebar clutch lever after putting the bike into first or second gear, (without the engine running), the rear wheel will not turn, indicating to me that the clutch is not disengaging, I then tried readjusting from scratch just in case I had got the measurments wrong, but I am still getting the same problem.

 The only parts of the clutch mechanism that were dismantled were the cable adjusters and the small arm in the housing, and I am pretty confident the adjuster screw in the arm is set properly to "feel resistance and 1/4-1/2 turn back off". I am wondering if the plates are sticking as it hasn't been started for approx 6 months due to me sorting things out on it. I tried kicking over the bike and spinning it over on the starter motor with the bar clutch lever pulled in to see if would make a difference in case the plates were sticking, but it is just the same, I don't have fuel in the tank at the moment to try it on a running engine which may indeed have the speed to separate the plates if they are sticking.

Could sticking plates due to inactivity be the problem? or could it be something else be the issue?, remembering I did not touch the clutch basket itself just the outer cover.

Any help much appreciated.
Cheers

[TrickyMicky]

When my 400 was off the road for a couple of years,(9)!!!,  the clutch would not free off using time honoured methods, kick start with clutch lever pulled in, running it in 1st gear and using the back brake. So, not wishing to destroy the transmission, I clamped the clutch lever to the handlebars, removed the dipstick, and very carefully and gently used a flat bladed screwdriver to prise each plate apart, using the kickstart to turn the engine over a little at a time. 46 years old with 35000 on the clock, and still running on original clutch plates. As they say in the trade, "They all do that sir". Even now, every cold start after a few days means starting it on the centre stand and then gently applying the rear brake to free the clutch. Saves that awful CRUNCH as you engage 1st gear.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

The clutch on my Yamaha would stick every winter lay up - it would free off by running the engine then whilst on the centre stand I would  put it onto gear usually through to 3rd or 4th then when the Speedo was reading 50 mph I would pull in the clutch and apply the rear brake - not very subtle but it always worked. Little did I realise the damage it could have caused but it never did.

On my first Honda a 250 Dream it was stuck solid when I bought it. It had stood in a shed for almost 2 years unused. I removed the cover and managed to separate the plates - they were well stuck. Personally I would remove the cover and dismantle the plates it's not a big job. At the same time you could clean out any debris & check the plates for peace of mind.
At the same time worth checking the triangular plate with the 3 ball bearings on it are still roundish.

[rbt1548]

Thanks guys for your input, will take your advice and strip it down for a examination and clean, seems the best way to go.

Thanks

[SeanFD]

This problem is not specific to Hondas, though I've never experienced it. Triumph Bonnevilles were/are notorious for this; I have experienced this. Here's some advice from the Triumphrat.net forum:

Start the bike, pull in the clutch lever and rev it from idle 4 or 5 times and then shut it down. Now pull in the clutch and kick it to confirm that the clutch has been broken free. I think you will be pleasantly surprised. I've gotten so I do this on all my electric start only bikes as well and that first shift into first is just a snick instead of a clunk or bang.

Might help, and apparently avoids/prevents that horrible crunching sound you get sometimes when trying to engage 1st.

[rbt1548]

This problem is not specific to Hondas, though I've never experienced it. Triumph Bonnevilles were/are notorious for this; I have experienced this. Here's some advice from the Triumphrat.net forum:

Start the bike, pull in the clutch lever and rev it from idle 4 or 5 times and then shut it down. Now pull in the clutch and kick it to confirm that the clutch has been broken free. I think you will be pleasantly surprised. I've gotten so I do this on all my electric start only bikes as well and that first shift into first is just a snick instead of a clunk or bang.

Might help, and apparently avoids/prevents that horrible crunching sound you get sometimes when trying to engage 1st.

Thanks Sean, just a wee update. everything stripped down, cleaned, measured and reassembled, hopefully when the bike is ready to go back on the road it will be fine.

Regarding the Triumph info, that is good to know as I  have a 1968 Tiger and I always, prior to starting, kick it over with clutch lever in to free it up, it's a habit I got into since getting my first Commando when I was 20, over 40 years ago. I always did it prior to starting up but will try starting first as you suggested, and will also try it with the Honda, I am pretty sure it was just the plates being a bit stuck and everything will be fine once up and running.