Honda-SOHC

I'd check the connections and the contacts for the kill switch, does the electrics go out at the same time as the engine dies or is it just the engine dying that happens?

I will test the control, but the switches are brand new. Also, the electrics does not go out. I can restart the engine while coasting just by pushing the Start button again (with the clutch held in obviously). But all lights are still on, to the best of my knowledge.

Hey all

Alright, I have a few remaining issues with my CB550 F2 from 1977 that I wanted to run by you guys for advice. I have a feeling some of it might be related. I recently did the complete maintenance cycle (cam chain, tappet adjustment, timing, carb sync), and the bike seems to run great when warm. I am idling on around 1000RPM. But these are the things I am experiencing:

1. It still takes some effort to start up. Not a lot, but I’ve been led to believe that even when cold, these things can start up by one press of the start button. I would like my bike to get there. Right now it still needs some time and effort from the start motor, coupled with choker and small twists of the throttle. When it starts, I also have to give it a little throttle to get it to settle. Without that throttle, the engine usually dies again. Can it be a bad battery? Not enough spark? Bad coils? Bad wiring? Low compression? I am not using original Honda points. The ones I use can be a little hard to set so the firing matches up exactly. I usually have to turn the points to the outer limits of the plate and make the points gap as closed as possible (around 0.25-0.3 mm). I’ve heard that I don’t have to do this with original Honda points. Can that have something to do with the starting of the engine? I would love to get my bike to this point, where it just starts up: https://youtu.be/2k8U4bKgMjg?t=49

2. When driving on the highway and de-accelerating, sometimes the engine just go dead. Have to use the start button, and it starts immediately, but I find it weird that the engine gets killed like that sometimes. I thought the maintenance cycles helped it somewhat, but I still experience it now and then. What can the reasons for this be? Running too rich? I tried turning out the idle screw to 1 3/4 instead of the factory 1 1/2. The bike still runs fine, and haven’t experienced the engine going out since, but want to make sure it can’t be anything else either.

I wonder if these two issues can be related?

Some things to note about the bike: The spark plugs were a bit black when I took them out recently to check compression, which is another reason I turned out the idle screw a 1/4 turn more. The bike seems to run normal on this setting as well, although I seem to hear some more clunking sounds from the engine. Is there any reason for this, or am I just imagining things? The plugs are fairly new (3 years old and haven’t run that far) - should I buy new ones? Also, I measured the compression to around 25-30 on each cylinder, which makes me believe that my meter is broken. It had the same reading before I completely restored the engine, and I have no problems hitting around 180kmph on the highway. Also it idles fine and all that, so it seems unlikely that my compression is that low. But I don’t know what it actually is. Need to get a new meter.

I feel like if I can fix the start issues and not have the engine die when going 120kmph and de-accelerating, the bike runs almost perfectly (to my knowledge anyways), so really eager to fix these things, but fix them correctly so the bike won’t take any longterm damage.

What do you guys think?

So was driving recently, and I started wondering what's good for these old bikes. Usually, when I drive a car, I keep the revs fairly low. But on my bike, I do actually like to rev a little higher before I change gears.

Does anyone know what's actually best for these bikes? To shift gears when you reach around 4, 5 or 6.000 RPM? Also, when you do shift gear, do you rev up a little bit before releasing the clutch?

Hey all

Going for a longer ride in Southern Sweden, and am doing packing lists right now.

Can anyone advise a good set of tools to bring with me, that would allow me to do regular maintenance? I can think of some stuff myself, but wanna make sure I get all the tips and tricks I can get, and don't forget anything important

Ah, but I upsized the O-ring from 2.4 to 2.5 as per Julies advice. I do believe that is why it leaks somewhat less than it did before. But I guess it was not completely enough.

Maybe a genuine gasket set and upsized O-rings would do the trick? Or should I use the proper sized O-rings when using a genuine gasket set?

Also - where do I actually get a genuine gasket set? CMS seems to carry a million options, and Im not really sure if any of them is genuine Honda?

Ken, I'd love to know what drastic methods you are talking about?

Well I just went through the whole maintenance routine (cam chain, valves, timing and vacuum sync). It still halts a bit when cold. When warm, it idles beautifully on around 1000rpm, but when cold, it stalls out on the same idle screw adjustment.

I don't know if choke is really necessary when the temperature is as warm outside as it has been for the last few weeks. With 25 celcius and sunny conditions, I can start it fine without choke. Do you guys use choke either way?

No matter the temperature, I have to keep it a little up in the revs by holding the gas handle, until it is warm. Then it will stay at 1000rpm with no trouble.

There is just something beautiful about pressing the start button once, and have it go into idle, even when cold. But maybe that's a dream only with these old bikes and carburettors.

Question to OP, is this one running on std airfilter etc ? Or pods/open ?

I csbt remember if you've changed the specifications.

I am running completely stock. Read enough warnings and scary stories on this forum to just stay with the airbox. Can't say I regret it though!