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Messages - florence
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931
« on: July 02, 2010, 08:56:19 AM »
I'd try rocking it back an forth with the engine switched off first and see if you can get it to come out. Next step, take off the cover which goes over the clutch. At least you can do this with the engine in the frame. My 350 (same selector and clutch) got stuck in top once and I had to ride it home like that. When I took the cover off I found that the selector bolt had become loose. Put it back together and fine thereafter.
If I remember rightly, should you need to split the crankcases, it can be done leaving all the top end, i.e barrels, cylinder head, cam etc in place.
932
« on: July 01, 2010, 04:29:56 PM »
Cool, it's in a lot better condition than my 500 anyway before you even start.
933
« on: July 01, 2010, 11:33:22 AM »
Agreed, my CB125T, when thrashed to the extreme, would rev to 11,000 RPM and on a good day and with no prevailing wing would just about get to 80MPH on the speedo. (probably somwhere between 70 and 80MPH in reality but pretty fast for a 125). Great fun that bike was.
934
« on: July 01, 2010, 08:51:01 AM »
I owned a few 125 bikes when I was younger. I must say that of all of them the CG125, although not the most interesting, was by far the best. Ultra-reliable, simple to maintain and great fun to ride, if you can find a reasonable one that isn't worn out they are definitely worth having.
However, of all the bikes I have owned the newest bike was made in 1979 so there could be a number of really good models out there, made more recently of which I know nothing about. Presumably though, the newer models all have restricted BHP.
935
« on: July 01, 2010, 08:37:19 AM »
Lovely looking bike that Sfbrain, apart from the seat. I've always fancied a 750. Good luck with the restoration.
936
« on: June 25, 2010, 12:34:58 PM »
I see your bike is now on ebay.
937
« on: June 25, 2010, 12:20:13 PM »
I couldn't agree more. I do not like electronic ignition. My friend had it on his bike once (CB550 four) and it was always going wrong. I changed it back to points for him in the end.
Contact breaker points can always be made to work even if improperly; you will at least get going again. When I travel long distances or tour, I always take a very simple tool kit. I once reset my points and ignition timing on a campside in rural France, miles from anywhere( should I say kilometres?). I had a screwdriver, an adjustable spanner, a portable radio and a bit of emery cloth. If I had needed to find parts I would have been in trouble.
938
« on: June 25, 2010, 11:05:34 AM »
I have an old indicator with no lens which has long wires with crocodile clips. One wire goes onto the points, the other onto an earth on the frame, an exhaust stud is ideal. Set the points gap to the recommended amount. Next, turn the crankshaft using a spanner. The points should begin to open at the exact point that the 'F' mark lines up on the timing marks (as described in the manual). It's pretty easy once you get used to it. You will need to repeat this process for each set.
If you cannot get a bulb and wire together you can put a small transistor radio tuned off-station near the engine. When the points open you will hear a click coming from the radio. Sounds mad but it works. (NB this will not work with digital radios)
939
« on: June 24, 2010, 11:25:15 AM »
Agreed, dragging rear brake gives great control. Practice as much as you can. I passed my test 25 years ago but I still play around on my bike off the highway, small very slow manoeuvres, seeing how long I can stay stationary without putting down feet, etc. It's all really good for having a proper feel for your bike and it's good fun.
Don't give up, you will pass next time I am sure.
940
« on: June 24, 2010, 11:17:07 AM »
If it's clean, araldite might hold it but be sure to give it ages to cure. Once cured it's probably stronger than the aluminium itself. It would at least get you going until a new part can be found at the right price.
941
« on: June 22, 2010, 01:00:47 PM »
..Warning, putting two stroke mixed petrol into a four stroke can cause serious overheating because the ratio of petrol to air is greatly reduced causing the engine to run very hot.
I seized my four stroke lawn mower by running it on my chain saw petrol. It's a 40 min round trip to get petrol here and I thought it would be ok just once to finish off the grass cutting. I wrongly assumed it would just smoke a bit. Luckily, once it cooled down it was ok. I wouldn't like to treat my bike like that though.
942
« on: June 21, 2010, 04:39:25 PM »
Ouch!
At least you know what it is now.
943
« on: June 21, 2010, 09:05:28 AM »
I too rode various CB125S models. Great bike, taught me how to rebuild engines. On one occasion, a gearbox gear lost so many teeth it vibrated like the whole machine was going to blow itself apart, so, the night before my part one bike test, I had to strip and rebuild the thing. I stayed up all night and had the thing going the next morning in time for my test, which I passed. I can't do without sleep anymore.
Best road-bike I have ridden in the snow. (CX500 worst)
944
« on: June 21, 2010, 08:56:41 AM »
Looks wonderful! A lived in look that cannot be created overnight; it takes years to develop. I'll try to get a picture of mine up, it's in a similar lived-in condition and I refuse to polish and standardise things.
In my opinion I have vastly improved upon what Mr Honda produced. It now has a better exhaust (1980's laser) and air filter system, which has made space for a toolkit to go where the over-sized and stifling air box used to be. The cow-horn handlebars have improved cornering and riding position and the removal of indicators has improved aerodynamics.
945
« on: June 18, 2010, 03:51:23 PM »
...forgot to add, why use paint when you can so easily apply grease or rub over with an oily rag?
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