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Messages - Erwin83
181
« on: November 25, 2016, 09:48:38 AM »
Nothing wrong with those pics. The quality of that seat is outstanding. Is that leather or 'other materials' ?
If you don't mine me asking, how much did that come to? I've fitted a genuine BMW seat cover to my K75 but it's a bit thin and has punctured so I'm interested in something like yours, maybe next year.
I actually paid a little bit too less. He quoted me before we did the brainstorm, and the amount of work (logo's + diamond stitching) came to more then he anticipated (there is around 12 hours of work in this seat). But he was enthusiastic about the design and came through for the original price. This should cost around 400 euro's including material (again, I paid less). The cool thing is, that you can be done for 200 euro, getting a "standard" seat cover without anything custom, and you can make more budget for all the custom work as you like. For instance embroidery for logo's is quite expensive work, which is why we went for this 'rough' cutting and stitching of logo's, but with all the small cuting work there was still a lot of time required. The material is "synthetic leather" (is it called skai in UK too?). With this guy, you can pick whatever material you like because he has specimen, much like when you buy new furniture. I don't think real leather is very common on seats due to the influence of rain.
182
« on: November 25, 2016, 08:09:42 AM »
---------------- Update on page 7! ---------------- I've introduced myself here: http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,11327.msg84751.html#msg84751Will continue in this thread with my project updates. ---------------- Hey guys, just wanted to show you my re-upholstered Giuliari seat. The guy who did this is a real artist ( www.toniworks.nl). My original seat cover was ripped, torn, etc. so needed to be re-done. The choice was to go for an original-as-possible new cover, but we had a one hour brainstorm and came up with a plan to give it a little custom twist (as my bike is also almost original, but with a twist). I'm super excited with the result:     I'll make some better pictures with a decent camera later, but I couldn't wait 
183
« on: November 23, 2016, 04:04:23 PM »
I usually treat the o-ring getting fuel on it making it swell as a sign that the fuel level is too high, As the fuel level should be lower than the bowl mating face, in an ideal world we shouldn't need an o-ring. For this reason I rarely replace the 0-ring.
Yeah, the float bowl drain is clearly higher then the O-ring's position, so it's clear the fuel level was too high. I hope this is solved by putting the float's at 23 mm now. Let's see. I hope I don't get home finding my garage smelling like fuel later-on...
184
« on: November 23, 2016, 03:17:45 PM »
Unfortunately the Taiwanese O-rings for the float cups seem to grow in size. I think I read something similar about the Keyster kits (brass parts OK, rubber parts NOK).
I know various people have had a bit of fun fitting these O rings when using the Cruzinimage kit as they are not shaped.
A dab or two of sealant to hold various points in place seemed to help, and I seem to recall warming the rings to help soften them may also have been mentioned.
Fresh out of the box, they fitted perfectly, even though they are unshaped. However after 2 days fitted on the carb, they seem to get longer, maybe unsuitable material for use in fuel environment..? I actually cut 2 of them and decreased the lenght by 3-4 mm to get them just right again. I'm hoping this O-ring to U-ring conversion won't cause a leak, otherwise I'll have to get new seals.
185
« on: November 23, 2016, 03:14:55 PM »
Float height should be 21mm. The Haynes manual is incorrect as I found out to my cost when the carbs overflowed! Thanks to the helpful people on the forum who know the correct measurement.
Sounds like it's going well though.
For some reason, I really needed to go to 23mm to get the float needles to work properly. 22 (or 21) didn't work well and made the carbs drip. Just pressing the floats down (carbs inverted) I found that with 22 mm float height, the float hits the housing bottom before the needle fully closes the fuel flow (easily checked with compressed air). Of course that is with max compression of the little needle spring... If it weren't for the huge amount of extra work, the best solution would be to do an actual check on the fuel level. I guess (but I can't explain it) that the buoyancy of the floats may have reduced due to old age? I tried 'em in the sink though, they all float the same way (height) in water... None of them seemed to be leaking. Now, I hope my fuel mixture is not influenced to much by the possibly 1-2 mm lower fuel level.
186
« on: November 23, 2016, 10:22:24 AM »
So, after installing the kit in the carbs, and placing the set back on the bike, the float overflow kept dripping. Quite annoying.
Engine runs immediately by the way with the base settings: standard jets, needle at 3rd position, 3/4 mixture out, synchronization eye-balled at peek-through, float heigth at 22mm (old setting was way-off by the way, at 26-28 mm...).
Took the carbs back off and checked if the float needles worked with compressed air. After setting the floats about 1 mm lower (23 mm), all seems well now.
Unfortunately the Taiwanese O-rings for the float cups seem to grow in size. I think I read something similar about the Keyster kits (brass parts OK, rubber parts NOK).
187
« on: November 17, 2016, 12:42:44 PM »
OK, got my Taiwanese carb rebuild kit (the one which people seem to be enthusiastic about). Hopefully I'll be able to get it fitted this weekend.
I'm going for the standard jets.
188
« on: November 07, 2016, 06:11:57 PM »
No-one with a savvy comment or link to information elsewhere on this forum? 
189
« on: November 05, 2016, 07:38:47 AM »
Hi. Sorry if this is the gazillion-th topic on carb settings. I'm currently overhauling my carbs, and they will go on my standard cb400f (normal air filter etc). I've replaced my original 4-4 exhaust with a custom 4-2 which I built based on the headers of the 4-4, a custom Y-piece and 2 sporty but not completely open red-tip exhausts. There are no balance pipes. I'm wondering if I should deviate from the standard carb settings and jettings. For instance a different clip height to have a slightly richer mid range? I've destroyed a 350 engine already once because of too lean mixture. 'D like to avoid another of those  Any advice? Tnx
190
« on: November 04, 2016, 06:49:54 PM »
Ah. Found some pics, but none of the work done. Just a pic on how I got her 13 years ago (and rode around for a couple years).  As you expect, I finally lost the 4-4 to rust. The 350 engine was lost because of lean mixture (piston broke) Rest of the changes are due to my taste  Most of the good chrome bits are shelved by the way. All blacked out bits on my bike were in bad shape (of a donor bike).
191
« on: November 04, 2016, 06:30:04 PM »
send more pics of the build
Sorry, i dont have a lot of pictures of all my work on this bike in the last 13 yrs. Usually when my hands get greasy i tend not to touch a camera or phone.  I may have some very old pics somewhere. If I find 'em I'll post.
192
« on: November 04, 2016, 06:18:59 PM »
Welcome Erwin
You'll certainly find a lot of help and advice on the forum, some of it is even useful. .
It looks a lot tidier than this Amsterdam 350
Thanks Yeah this looks like someone's budget pocket rocket. Mine's quite tidy now, although my engine has been badly painted silver by the previous owner. Seems to run OK though, which was my priority with this engine. The previous engine blasted oil out of all gaskets. Once I have that 400 engine restored, my bike will be almost new with some patina left. That may take a few years though.
193
« on: November 04, 2016, 06:13:36 PM »
Welcome to the forum send more pics of the build have you tried the tyres yet or are they newly fitted thinking of getting that make for my s90
Just newly fitted, and bike isnt fit for riding right now. I'll happily admit I've chosen these K36 mostly because of the looks, and certainly the size is probably rather big, I wanted that 'fat' balloon vintage look. Sizes fit fine though. For purely razor sharp handling, you're probably better of with modern brand/model in 90/90 and 100/90.  
194
« on: November 04, 2016, 02:31:32 PM »
Hey there, I've been owner of this CB350f for a long time, right about 13 yrs). It was my first love after getting my license and I've never had any reason to part with her. "Restauration" is coming close to the end now, so I'm researching a few things about tuning / setting up ignition and carburation. Hope to find a lot of information here, and potentially sharing a few of my experiences. This is her:  (I'm dropping the gold on the clutch cover) I've done almost everything myself: - Frame powdercoated (had it done obviously) - All parts going on cleaned and checked for wear and tear, renewed when needed. - Brakes refurbished - Forks refurbished - Hagon's at the rear, but those have been placed over 10 yrs ago already - Wheels refurbished and painted black (rear 1.85 rim on the front hub) - Heidenau K36 (3.50 front, 4.10 back) - CB400f engine - 4-2 exhaust with Dunstall Red-tip replica's - Shortened fenders front and back - Small tail light - My Giuliari seat is getting a new bespoke cover. Original with a twist. It's not a cafe-racer, it's not original, it doesn't go in any frame. It's just my CB to my specs. At the moment, I'm waiting for a carb kit to arrive. Carbs are currently open on the work table. Pleased to meet you, and looking forward to some more learning on these bikes 
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