This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Maax1200
1
« on: July 28, 2021, 08:03:41 PM »
Very similar to me. Been using a small (about 10-12mm) key ring for about 15 years.
😄 Where where you in all those threads with people complaining about stiff throttle spring?
2
« on: July 28, 2021, 04:50:29 PM »
Dont know if anyone allredy came up with this idea so i though i would share it.
Found the throttle return spring to be way to stiff on my CB500 -74 and came up with this easy fix (yes, i have new cables and all that).
It reduced the force needed with at least 50% and there are plenty of spring left to close on its own and now it feels like every other bike iv ever owned.
And the best part, it was free.
3
« on: July 25, 2021, 11:48:41 AM »
I checked again and he was talkin about the other end, where needle meets the jet insider the bore. Wierd thing is that the emulsion tube can be mounted either way, either fully seated like in the picture or flush with the carburetor body like Classic Octane say. On the other hand, he says "basically flush", what ever that means.
4
« on: July 22, 2021, 03:01:17 PM »
I have a quick question regarding the emulsion tube on a CB 500 -74. I was watching Classic Octane and the episode where he rebuild a set of carburetors (very helpfull).
There was one thing that confuses me though. When he installed the emulsion tube he said that the end should be flush with the carburetor body. Thats not how it looked/looks in my case (see pic). So witch is correct?
/Magnus
5
« on: July 04, 2021, 09:44:32 AM »
Thank you for all the help.
Replaced the coils and fitted new NGK plug caps. Everything looks ok and i got a nice strong spark. Turn signals and oil lamp is now working.
Now its just the final assembly and the bike should be completed, fingers crossed.
Thank you all again.
/Magnus
6
« on: July 04, 2021, 09:37:14 AM »
Bugger sorting out the self adjusting parts!!
😄
7
« on: July 03, 2021, 10:04:16 AM »
Not actually done that one but have seen it before
Just seemed natural that thats where the wire should be due to the shape of the wire and layout. Even took a picture of it, but after i loosend the terminals with the red wire right above the left terminal. It simply moved over by it selfe. Oh well. Im just glad it was a easy fix.
8
« on: July 02, 2021, 07:53:14 PM »
Was that it?
The reason the bike went dark, yes.🥴 How embarrassing. I will argue with anyone that the issue with the turn signals and oil lamp was way more complicated. And i fixed it by my selfe.🤪 Thank you for the tip.👍
9
« on: July 02, 2021, 04:04:34 PM »
It doesnt matter which way round the big cables go but it does matter which one the small red goes to which is the one from battery
Please kill me now.
10
« on: July 02, 2021, 03:47:17 PM »
I belive odd job is right with his theory
Yes, the yellow/red and black wire is "pointing" towards the airbox if that makes sense. Hopefully a replacement relay will solve everything. I did have to replace the coils since they where faulty to. Is it just random that both coils and starter relay malfunctioned at the same time? Voltage regulator?
11
« on: July 02, 2021, 12:10:44 PM »
I think i have solved the problem (i think).
The original issue was that the turn signals and oil lamp didnt work. Turns out those two cables was switched on the new main harness, grey to blue/red. So now that issue is solved. So thats a tip for those who buy new "quallity" replacement parts. Allways check so that wires isnt in the wrong place.
My second issue ended in the bike going dark. After checking all the connections and confirming that everything was fine i finally came up with the idea to bypass the starter relay and viola, it all works. Now i need to order a second hand starter relay and everything should be ok. The relay turns the starter motor if i bridge the two terminals but it doesnt seem to let through any power from the battery to the main harness.
I need to check the voltage regulator so that isnt the cause giving to mutch voltage. Maby that killed the switch and even the coils (should have blown a few bulbs first i would think)?
12
« on: June 28, 2021, 04:14:27 PM »
Check all the connections again, it's quite common for one of the connectors to get pushed out as your connecting the 2 block connectors, also check for corrosion. It's clear you've just disturbed a connection that is vital, in particular check the connector to the fuse.
Will check again. I made fresh new connections to the fuse but will try again. It just has to be that or the egnition switch.
13
« on: June 28, 2021, 04:09:12 PM »
If you mean that little cover on the left next to the coils, that's where the main earth wire goes to the frame on mine. Is that OK ?, have you disturbed a poor earth connection ?
Worth a look maybe....
Sry, i meant the subassembly behind the sidecover below the seat.
14
« on: June 28, 2021, 04:06:12 PM »
I mixed it up before, its secondary surcit om the coils that are faulty. Managed to get hold of 2 secondhand ones and they confirm its not my multimeter thats showing wrong. So i now, at least, i have 2 working coils (for now) but im starting to wonder if there is a problem with the voltage regulator maby, giving to mutch voltage burning stuff?
I will keep digging and rechecking earth wires etc but the whole system going dark makes me think something happend to the egnition switch, maby due to mutch voltage?
Only times i ever seen system going dark before is because of main fuse blowing (not the case here). The next thing i can think of is the egnition switch.
P.S. Thank you all for your input and hoppfully i will solve it in the end.
15
« on: June 27, 2021, 10:45:46 PM »
I will check again with another meter and thank you for the link.
With that said, the problems keep flooding in. I removed the assembly behind the left side cover to check faulty wires and a general cleanup. Checked for continuity and all seemed ok, no broken wires etc. Reassembled everything aaaaaaaaand.....the bike is completly dead, no lights no nothing, just utterly dead. Iv changed nothing between removing the assembly (starter selenoid etc) and reinstaling it again, very carefully i might add. Its like the fuse popped except it hasnt.
Im on the verge of giving up. I will check everything again and after, if i dont find the problem, its of to the lowest bidder im affraid (Have several other projects that need attention to and there are only so many days in a year).
I mean, everything except the coils and the sub assembly behind the left sidecover is brand new so how many culprits can there really be?
|
Show Posts