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Messages - hairygit
Pages: 1 ... 167 168 [169] 170 171 172
2521
« on: October 01, 2011, 10:15:25 AM »
any yellow to any yellow, thats the beauty of 3phase wiring!
2522
« on: September 28, 2011, 07:09:35 PM »
If the F tank doesn't leak, hang on to it, they are difficult to find in usable condition, there are far more K series tanks out there, and even replica ones, but F tanks that dont leak are VERY scarce! 
2523
« on: September 26, 2011, 06:08:22 PM »
The reason we give our bikes girls names is that they take all your time and money, and still give you sh*t when you really don't need it! 
2524
« on: September 26, 2011, 01:28:49 PM »
Steve, stand up for what's true, women like to wear white on the wedding day, after all, most kitchen appliances come in white!!!
2525
« on: September 26, 2011, 11:54:22 AM »
The old favourite, corrosion between the alloy caliper body and the steel backing of the brake pad! Split the caliper, then apply a TINY amount of easing oil around the steel backing of the pad, leave for an hour or so, then gently squeeze the brake lever ONCE, you should see the pad start to move outwards.. apply a little more easing oil, leave for a few minutes, the attempt to push the pad back into the housing. if it moves fairly easily, squeeze the brake lever again, just once, then try to jiggle the pad out of the caliper housing. When you get the pad out, clean around the steel backing with emery paper or similar, then look at the alloy of the caliper, it will probably look white and furry. If it is, have a look at the exposed part of the piston and check for rust pits or other damage, if it looks okay, push it back into the caliper body as far as it will go. (DON'T do this if the piston shows serious rust or pitting, bite the bullet and get a replacement piston, your life depends on it!)Assuming the piston is servicable, next clean the inside rim of the caliper where the pad sits, for heavy corrosion I use a scotchbrite pad (green scratchy pad women use for washing up), followed by a polish with solvol autosol. When both the pad and caliper are clean, check the pivot of the caliper swinging arm is moving freely (If it isn't, take it apart and grease the pivot pin, A little bit of thought from Honda would have seen a grease nipple on the pivot!) Before re assmbling the caliper, apply a smear of copaslip around the edge of the pad where it contacts the inside edge of the caliper body, should help stop it happening again!(worth doing 3-4 times a year to prevent future siezures, only takes a few minutes ) Then re assemble the caliper, and adjust the brake to the manual spec (6 thou between the fixed pad and the disc I seem to recall) using the swinging arm adjuster bolt, then a feww pulls on the brake lever and hey presto, should be a working brake again!
2526
« on: September 23, 2011, 06:12:44 PM »
Use the F2 carbs with it, electrics are the same for your needs, the main problem you will have is the exhaust on your chop (K6 engine) wont fit straight on (different at the exhaust port mounting)
2527
« on: September 22, 2011, 07:37:15 PM »
If you haven't yet fitted the rocker cover, turn the crankshaft until "T" 1.4 is lined up in the points cover. Look at the position of the cam lobes for cylinder 1, if they are facing down toward the cylinder head, that means you can put the rocker box on, and adjust valves for cylinder 1, then follow on in the usual adjustment procedure. If the lobes are NOT facing downward, rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees then check again, this time they should be facing down, then carry on as above
2528
« on: September 22, 2011, 07:07:34 PM »
Put the points plate roughly in the middle of the screw slots (move it anti clockwise) then rotate the crankshaft until the first set of points is open to its widest (ignore the "T" and "F" marks on the advance/retard for the moment) Adjust the gap of the first set of points to specification (15 thou seems to work best with imperial feeler gauges) then rotate the crank until the other set of points is at its maximum opening, and again set the gap to spec. Then you can set about timing, using "F"1.4 for points marked 1.4 the points plate is rotated very slowly until the points just begin to open (NOT fully open) When you have done this,tighten the base plate screws, then rotate the crankshaft to the "F"2.3 position and do the same with the points marked 2.3,(only make adjustments with the small sub plate they are mounted on), then all should be well. I assume you have checked the condition of the points? not just the contacts, but also the plastic/fibre heel that rubs on the cam? if the heel becomes badly worn,accurate timing can be very difficult to achieve
2529
« on: September 20, 2011, 07:58:17 PM »
I'm talking about the pic of you on the bike with the very 70's fairing!
2530
« on: September 20, 2011, 07:15:20 PM »
Am I the only one on this forum who thinks SteveD 500F (Admin) profile pic shares more than a passing resemblance to "Toecutter" in the original Mad Max movie? 
2531
« on: September 20, 2011, 10:08:27 AM »
Just found one of the switches on e-bay, listed for cb400/4, but it is the same item, item no:300184704803,
2532
« on: September 20, 2011, 09:42:48 AM »
Yes it does have a very basic safety circuit. The usual culprit is the little plunger switch mounted in a hole on the left hand switchgear  . It is designed so that the starter will not operate unless the clutch is pulled in whilst the bike is in gear, and the little switch often becomes stuck with the plunger "IN", (as in the clutch being engaged, free lever) You can see if you can free it off with a bit of tapping (gently, it's only plastic) or buy another switch (less than
2533
« on: September 15, 2011, 09:12:17 PM »
Yep, e-bay! item no 350280320182 for K0- K6 or 290515316400 for F1/F2/K7
2534
« on: September 14, 2011, 06:18:11 PM »
Sadly at least 1 bent valve is a certainty  maybe more as the cam may have still moved at odd times due to the fact of the way it broke, leaving a rough edge which could occasionally move the cam a fraction and let other valves hit the pistons One thing I will suggest though, when you have rebuilt the engine, as it's in a chop frame, leave the rocker cover off and leave the spark plugs out and wind it over on the starter several times to make certain that oil is reaching the top end as it should, then fit the rocker cover and spark plugs! (something we have to do OUT of the frame on a standard bike )
2535
« on: September 14, 2011, 10:07:37 AM »
Steff, the odd thing was that the side of the cam with no oil supply was for cylinders 3+4, which were the only 2 running! The cam snapped leaving the part above cylinders 1+2 not turning, but the oil supply to them looked okay!
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