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Messages - paulbaker1954
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61
« on: September 17, 2020, 08:01:17 AM »
One thing I would like to add.....
I know how frustrating it can be chasing problems like this, I spent weeks chasing around with an issue that I thought was down to air leaks (but wasn’t in the end). My bike had never idled very well and was always quite and to start despite having rebuilt the carbs and changed the carb brassware.
In the end I got so fed up I bought a set of refurbished carbs from Gerben. Ok they cost 300 but I got 95 back in part ex for my old ones.
Result bike starts first kick, idles like a dream.
Sometimes it just pays to have a professional service the carbs that uses good quality brassware was my take home
Mine is a 500 by the way with 069A carbs not a 550.
62
« on: September 14, 2020, 07:34:52 AM »
Out of curiosity where did u get the rear rack, I like it
63
« on: September 12, 2020, 02:20:39 PM »
64
« on: September 12, 2020, 02:13:10 PM »
Update:
So I have changed the boot clamps to very nice Jubilee clamps and tightened them carefully. They surely hold the rubber manifolds firmer, but I still have the same erratic behaviour, no noticeable change at all. As soon as the engine is warming up (1 or 2 minutes max) idle starts jumping a bit and then spikes to 3k...then down under 1k for no apparent reason. Throttle is responsive and there is no real hang if I blip it.
At this point I feel pretty confident it is not an air leak, so I will be tinkering with the advance mechanism springs, as an old post by Hondaman suggested weak springs (a common occurrence) could cause a similar behaviour.
At this point I would also be curious to swap my (original) coils with good working ones just to rule out they have anything to do with it, but I don't really want to buy new ones right now without the certainty I actually need them...
BTW I have tested mine with a voltmeter and they seem fine, but I wonder if they may start "acting up" once warm?
Having eliminated air leaks then it may we’ll be an issue with the advance mechanism, have you thought of hooking up a strobe timing light I think that would show if the timing was jumping around
65
« on: August 23, 2020, 09:06:57 AM »
You need 8mm narrow band stainless ones. I got mine from Inox Fasteners in Southampton
http://www.inoxbolt.co.uk/zen/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=475_498
Thank you Paul, I have ordered mine! Keeping my fingers crossed it will be as simple as that.
Cheers
Michele
REMEMBER DONT OVERTIGHTEN THEM IN CASE YOU SPLIT THE RUBBERS
66
« on: August 21, 2020, 08:11:40 AM »
This was exactly the same as mine, I sprayed carb cleaner all over and didn’t show a leak but there must have been one there. I replaced the clips with thin stainless jubilee clips. Word of warning is not to over tighten the clips or there is a danger of the clips splitting the rubber.
I am convinced you have an air leak. One thing you can try is when bike is running get hold of the carbs and pull/push them up and down. Give em a really good waggle around
OK, that is good info, thank you Paul, I will definitely give it a try. One more question, what do your Jubilee clips look like?
cheers
You need 8mm narrow band stainless ones. I got mine from Inox Fasteners in Southampton http://www.inoxbolt.co.uk/zen/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=475_498http://
67
« on: August 20, 2020, 08:50:40 AM »
Small update:
Bike runs fine from cold, for about 2-3 minutes. Then, once warmed up, the erratic idle starts showing. I have (abundantly) sprayed carb cleaner on intake manifolds with no change at all, so for now I tend to exclude an air leak as I could not find any evidence of it (and both rubber intakes and manifold o-rings are new).
I keep on thinking it could be something in the timing (or rather advance mechanism springs, maybe kicking in too soon) and/or unbalanced carbs (only bench synced visually, with a drill bit).
Maybe I'll start playing with the spring combination again, after all I am keeping the original ones as they are and just adding different ones, so anything I do can be undone quite easily.
Cheers
This was exactly the same as mine, I sprayed carb cleaner all over and didn’t show a leak but there must have been one there. I replaced the clips with thin stainless jubilee clips. Word of warning is not to over tighten the clips or there is a danger of the clips splitting the rubber. I am convinced you have an air leak. One thing you can try is when bike is running get hold of the carbs and pull/push them up and down. Give em a really good waggle around
68
« on: August 15, 2020, 08:27:18 AM »
Update of the day:
Just before thunderstorms hit (although it's still well sunny here) I decided to have a check at the timing.
-Points gaps were at 0.3mm and 0.35mm, so I made them both 0.3mm now.
-Static timing is spot-on for 1-4 and 2-3
I have tried using my strobe but the idling seems too unstable that I am not sure about anything, so I have not tried to adjust anything. I will try again just to see if I notice it being too far advanced at higher revs, but from first examination it does not look that way. It may be that it advances too soon though. I have tried in the past to use different spring combos in the advance mechanism but never really solved anything, so I reverted to the original setup (I was probably jumping the gun anyway).
Here's a video I shot today, just to give you an idea of what it sounds like when idling. Note that unless you see my hand on the throttle or idle screw, she's doing everything else by herself!
https://youtu.be/ESx_E8mv2vM
Carbs are standard PD46A with. standard jetting, This may not be ideal for the Delkevic 4 into 1 the PO put in, but it should not give problems when idling
As suggested above, I will try spraying carb cleaner on and around the inlet manifolds to check for air leaks there, but I have new manifods and o-rings so I doubt it will be that.
This def sounds like a fuelling issue not an electrical issue. As I said check for air leaks very carefully
69
« on: August 13, 2020, 07:55:22 AM »
Are you positive you don’t have an air leak between carbs and head. That would also cause similar problems. Try spraying carb cleaner around the joints when running. I had exactly the same tickover issues with revs suddenly rising and fixed it with new inlet rubbers. I also used jubilee clips (thin stainless ones) as opposed to the old Honda clips as even the replacement ones I got (not aftermarket ) from DSS were no sealing well.
From the sound of it this is more likely the problem
70
« on: July 31, 2020, 07:58:10 AM »
A friend of mine has a UK K0 bike and I have a USA K0 bike and there is a big difference in the angle of movement from 0 to full throttle. On his UK bike I reckon it’s about 120 deg but on my US bike it’s more like 90.
The 120 movement makes his UK bike a pain to ride so was wondering if anyone knows any more.
The only variable I can think of is the diameter of the nylon bit the cable wraps round in the housing may be different
72
« on: July 19, 2020, 07:53:00 AM »
I didn't help myself by dropping a nut down the camchain tunnel either - but that's another story.
Sounds fun, I always now stuff a cloth in that hole when working on my top end having once dropped a battery from my head torch down there which luckily I managed to fish out.
Experience is a journey in life
73
« on: June 26, 2020, 07:50:44 AM »
Did 100 odd miles yesterday in stifling heat and from brake started squealing again. Only when applying light pressure to lever. Squeeze harder ad it stops.
That said super embarrassing as you ride around. Pads seem to release ok so am wondering if this is down to the pad material so my question is what pads do others recommend
74
« on: June 26, 2020, 07:47:23 AM »
My experience with fitting was that they fitted fine even with the aftermarket brackets I sourced from Italy (can’t remember supplier but way cheaper than DSS or CMS.
My one gripe was that the position of the main stand rubber was out and I had to make up a small extension piece
Been on the bike for 3 years and no degradation of chrome etc
75
« on: June 11, 2020, 12:50:52 PM »
My main loom to the headlight shell runs on the left of the frame above the tank front locating rubbers as in the picture. I have noticed that the routing causes the loom to flex when turning the bars lock to lock.
I am concerned this flexing will eventually damage the loom wiring and was just wondering if this is the correct routing?
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