Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 15, 2021, 04:34:07 PM
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Does the wire type clip near the offside tank rubber mounting hold just the throttle cables or is it okay to run the clutch cable through it?
My clutch cable route is down from the front lever through the gap between the front forks & speedo mount bracket - it passes past the front of the ignition switch and curves nicely via the clip to the clutch casing adjuster. I have a nice free operation but some pics seem to show the cable not running between frame & fuel tank.
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The way you've done it sounds right Ted.
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The way you've done it sounds right Ted.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for that - those schematic sketches are very useful. Ted
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Hey Ted.
I can’t comment on the cable route, but the bike is looking really smart. Buy yourself a decent heater and keep the pressure up. But I thought you had a blue frame?
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Apologies, it was Deans :-[
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Does the wire type clip near the offside tank rubber mounting hold just the throttle cables or is it okay to run the clutch cable through it?
My clutch cable route is down from the front lever through the gap between the front forks & speedo mount bracket - it passes past the front of the ignition switch and curves nicely via the clip to the clutch casing adjuster. I have a nice free operation but some pics seem to show the cable not running between frame & fuel tank.
Hi Ted,
I think you are probably right to go with the sketch, but just for the record, I found my old cable had suffered severe internal friction/binding even though it would pass oil all the way through. The problem area was where it passes through the chrome guide on the cylinder head. My conclusion was excessive heat transfer from the cylinder head (very hot) at this one point, causing breakdown of the lining.
Solution for me FWIW, route it just to the right of the guide and leave it free. I don't think it needs any extra support it is so rigid. No heat traansfer is then possible.
Cheers :)
Dennis
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Hi Dennis.
Not sure if your chrome guide has one fitted but the guide should have a heat insulator inside the guide to stop the cable coming in contact with the metal. Part number 45466-329-000, available from DS or CMS if you need one.
John
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I have no chrome guide/bracket on the cylinder head or cam cover where should the bracket be bolted?
I've not found the bracket in the parts book do you have a part number by any chance?
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I've got the chrome wire guide plus the so called insulated ring on top of the cambox to stop any physical contact 'twixt cable and head. Cable still needs replacing approx every two years. I think it's a case of "They all do that sir". Not ultra expensive to replace, just disconnect both ends, tie the new cable to the old one and heave! First use of a new cable is like having a new bike!
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Looks like the bracket is discontinued it might be 45467-329-00 looks right as item 217 in parts book its next to 216 the cable guide 45466-329-000.
Description calls it a brake cable guide so maybe not?
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Hi Dennis.
Not sure if your chrome guide has one fitted but the guide should have a heat insulator inside the guide to stop the cable coming in contact with the metal. Part number 45466-329-000, available from DS or CMS if you need one.
John
Hi Deano,
Yes thanks, it has the insulator fitted, which I think avoids full heat transfer, but try touching it with a hot engine. I also felt that just holding the cable that close to the very hot cyl head with heat radiation was just a bad move and would heat the cable un-necessarily, when it could just be unclipped in free air. I took the evidence from my failed cable, which was in good condition apart from heat stress inside. Just my opinion FWIW.
Cheers :)
Dennis
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I've got the chrome wire guide plus the so called insulated ring on top of the cambox to stop any physical contact 'twixt cable and head. Cable still needs replacing approx every two years. I think it's a case of "They all do that sir". Not ultra expensive to replace, just disconnect both ends, tie the new cable to the old one and heave! First use of a new cable is like having a new bike!
Do you think what I have experienced could be the cause of premature failure. ??
Dennis
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Looks like the bracket is discontinued it might be 45467-329-00 looks right as item 217 in parts book its next to 216 the cable guide 45466-329-000.
Description calls it a brake cable guide so maybe not?
Hi Ted,
Here is a picture attached if it of any help.
Dennis
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Thanks for the photo Dennis - mine is definitely missing.
If I can't find a used one I might have to look at making something that keeps it away from the engine.
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I've got the chrome wire guide plus the so called insulated ring on top of the cambox to stop any physical contact 'twixt cable and head. Cable still needs replacing approx every two years. I think it's a case of "They all do that sir". Not ultra expensive to replace, just disconnect both ends, tie the new cable to the old one and heave! First use of a new cable is like having a new bike!
Do you think what I have experienced could be the cause of premature failure. ??
Dennis
Yes Dennis, I think it's the price we pay for having everything all tucked away, out of sight, neat and tidy. Many years ago I owned a CB750 K2, and the clutch cable was routed down one of the front down tubes, tucked in nicely between Nos. 3 & 4 Header pipes, under the points cover, and entered the clutch housing next to the lower frame tube. For relaxation these days, I am playing with a 1966 CL160, nice long sweeps on cables, all visible, and out of harms way. The instruction book even tells you that you can oil these cables, how quaint!!! Just to finish off my rant, the ONLY piece of plastic on this machine is the rear light lens. Such is progress eh?
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I've got the chrome wire guide plus the so called insulated ring on top of the cambox to stop any physical contact 'twixt cable and head. Cable still needs replacing approx every two years. I think it's a case of "They all do that sir". Not ultra expensive to replace, just disconnect both ends, tie the new cable to the old one and heave! First use of a new cable is like having a new bike!
Do you think what I have experienced could be the cause of premature failure. ??
Dennis
Yes Dennis, I think it's the price we pay for having everything all tucked away, out of sight, neat and tidy. Many years ago I owned a CB750 K2, and the clutch cable was routed down one of the front down tubes, tucked in nicely between Nos. 3 & 4 Header pipes, under the points cover, and entered the clutch housing next to the lower frame tube. For relaxation these days, I am playing with a 1966 CL160, nice long sweeps on cables, all visible, and out of harms way. The instruction book even tells you that you can oil these cables, how quaint!!! Just to finish off my rant, the ONLY piece of plastic on this machine is the rear light lens. Such is progress eh?
The natural position now for my cable without it going through the loop is just about 1" to the right and 1/2" higher than the loop, still beneath the tank, well clear of the cambox and in free air, so much cooler.
Dennis
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Dennis is right if the cable is not behind the guide the natural routing is such that the missing guide is not needed as the cable is nowhere near the engine casings.
I've looked at the idea of a bracket (that I do not have) on the top breather Ken it's definitely an option as well.
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Be careful of what material you use to make the bracket. Heat will be conducted from the mounting on the engine, and the cable will very likely be in contact with the bracket. I think whichever option you choose the cable is routed through an area of high temperature. New cables are not mega expensive, and do not take very long to replace, probably quicker than changing the oil and filter, and we do that every 1,000 miles approx without a thought. Plus as I said earlier, when you use the clutch for the first time with a new cable it recreates that ancient feeling of "Oh God, that feels good!"
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If you look closely at my photos, you can see the OEM clip and how it hold the clutch cable in its natural route.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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Be careful of what material you use to make the bracket. Heat will be conducted from the mounting on the engine, and the cable will very likely be in contact with the bracket. I think whichever option you choose the cable is routed through an area of high temperature. New cables are not mega expensive, and do not take very long to replace, probably quicker than changing the oil and filter, and we do that every 1,000 miles approx without a thought. Plus as I said earlier, when you use the clutch for the first time with a new cable it recreates that ancient feeling of "Oh God, that feels good!"
Mmm point taken - my brain is working overtime on the idea of a simple silicone loop for going around the cable - a bit like those silicone cooking moulds you use for containing a fried egg.
It's something I need to look at with the petrol tank in place - hopefully I can do something that will not be too visible - an original bracket might be worth hunting down as you can still buy the ring that fits inside. Then again plenty of areas not on the engine to fit a bracket to - off the existing cable guide clip, horn, even the coil mounts.
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Nice cable route photo - it does run close to the engine in a few places - then of course the cable has to cope with operational movement from the lever & steering - thanks Julie.
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All the parts books seem to show the clutch cable bracket & heat insulating ring as items 216 & 217 but the bracket is described as a brake cable part?
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All the parts books seem to show the clutch cable bracket & heat insulating ring as items 216 & 217 but the bracket is described as a brake cable part?
Even Honda make mistakes 😳
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Hi Ted, Other models in the SOHC range used a guide for the clutch cable, possibly the 750/4. I have'nt seen a guide for the 400F for sale for quite some time so although others might not be the same shape they would do the job.
Graham
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Hi Ted, Other models in the SOHC range used a guide for the clutch cable, possibly the 750/4. I have'nt seen a guide for the 400F for sale for quite some time so although others might not be the same shape they would do the job.
Graham
Do you have a part number for the 750/4 so I can search for it?
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McCabe-Thiele (Ted), Hi, i've sent you a PM.