Post by: Athame57 on July 09, 2023, 06:56:59 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on July 09, 2023, 07:13:12 PM
Not corrosive to the skin just wash off under the tap then I dip it in thinners or spray with WD40 to stop flash rusting.
For larger items I use the usual Gel type products.
Post by: Spitfire on July 09, 2023, 07:24:03 PM
Cheers
Dennis
Post by: K2-K6 on July 09, 2023, 07:54:12 PM
I've no comparison to the other product here to give valid view in that respect, but seems to work fine for the items he's put through it so far. Mainly tools, many with heavy rusting, successful on all and doesn't appear to flash rust after rinsing.
Seems particularly inert to handle, no real smell signature, water rinse after leaving to soak. The used fluid he left in container and all dissolved particulate etc sunk to the bottom to allow the liquid to be decanted off for re-use.
Difficult to give the comparison asked for, but perfectly viable product from usage so far.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on July 09, 2023, 09:13:11 PM
Only review on sellers site said 'Useless' but then there are a lot of baseless negative reviews out there.
Post by: JamesH on July 09, 2023, 10:29:06 PM
Bilt Hamber Deox C Concentrated Rust Remover (1000g) https://amzn.eu/d/bndF2MG
Post by: Trigger on July 10, 2023, 12:10:40 AM
Post by: Athame57 on July 10, 2023, 12:13:21 AM
If you can soak the part Citric Acid works well ;)So if I squeezed a lemon over a saucer full of rusty nuts & bolts they will come back looking new? :o
Post by: Arch stanton on July 10, 2023, 08:24:24 AM
Post by: Laverdaroo on July 10, 2023, 09:08:13 AM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on July 10, 2023, 10:11:49 AM
Amendment: should read Hydrochloric Acid.
The beauty of Evaporust is it works by only attacking the chemical bond between Iron & Iron Oxide - hence why you get a brown sediment when it has worked - it effectively just makes the rust separate from the good steel - hence the periodic need for a light brushing - on delicate items I use an old tooth brush.
I have left old parts that were beyond recovery in Evaporust for months - it eventually comes out clean but rough where the iron is missing. As the old fluid gets darker I decanter off the sediment and store it in a tin of used fluid. I re-use old fluid several times before it becomes spent. It is safe to wash down the drain under a running tap.
I have found with items such as a long engine mounting bolts that are plated that where the rust has gone through the plating the Evaporust will remove all the iron oxide (aka rust) - As most of the bolt is hidden (I do not have a plating kit) I coat the bare metal parts using Bluing Solution so I have a passivated repair - wash off and the spray paint silver. (Bluing solution requires very clean grease free steel it works as you brush the item with the solution turning gun metal blue in under two minutes - you must never dip the brush into you bottle - always pour some into a small glass container and load the brush from that)
Bluing is Phosphoric Acid based so I wear eye protection & gloves you dilute the new Bluing solution with water as per the instructions one part solution / 3 parts water iirc.
I have found Vinegar white or brown only good with Copper/Brass - it cleans up old Pennies a treat as well as electrical components. I have never tried Citric Acid but I do use Lemon Juice to clean mould from my Hot Tub cover.
Post by: Matt_Harrington on July 10, 2023, 10:16:12 AM
The advantage of Evaporust is it is not caustic and so it you can dip your hand in it - unlike Brick cleaner (Hydrochloric acid). So cleaning the inside of a petrol tank, it is better to use the former rather than the acid!
Oxalic Acid is pretty cheap and works well. You buy it in powder form and mix up as required. I told a mate of mine to try it on a rusty chain he had and he was impressed with the results
Post by: Matt_Harrington on July 10, 2023, 10:17:53 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on July 10, 2023, 10:19:45 AM
Well spotted Matt.
Mr Google says
Metals such as aluminum, cast iron, steel, copper, and titanium will suffer rapid attack from HCl at all concentrations and temperatures. Most stainless steel grades will be subject to attack, because their chromium content is not sufficient in forming a protective passive layer.
Post by: Matt_Harrington on July 10, 2023, 10:22:44 AM
Bilthamber Deox-C is a great product.
Bilt Hamber Deox C Concentrated Rust Remover (1000g) https://amzn.eu/d/bndF2MG
James, I've not tried this but heard good results. What dilution do you use?
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on July 10, 2023, 10:29:39 AM
Bilthamber Deox-C is a great product.
Bilt Hamber Deox C Concentrated Rust Remover (1000g) https://amzn.eu/d/bndF2MG
Just read some reviews on the above where a chap restored some car brake discs complete with photos - do you have any idea what the main active ingredient is?
I know back in the 1960's our paint sprayers used something similar on new body panels that had some flash rust from long term storage.
Post by: JamesH on July 10, 2023, 10:41:12 AM
Normally 100g per litre of warm/hot water. So 1kg makes 20 litres of de-rusting solution, working out at about £1 per litre (compared to circa £6/liter for evaporust).Bilthamber Deox-C is a great product.
Bilt Hamber Deox C Concentrated Rust Remover (1000g) https://amzn.eu/d/bndF2MG
James, I've not tried this but heard good results. What dilution do you use?
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on July 10, 2023, 11:01:53 AM
Whilst having a shave an hour or so ago I had an old memory surface from when I worked in the Analytical Process Lab at Associated Octel back in 1967 as part of my "thick sandwich degree course".
One of my monthly jobs was to dilute some of the highly concentrated acid with water to make stock reagents that were used daily in the Lab.
I was actually quite nervous of the process as I had to add a precise volume of the acid to the water as the temperature of the water rose it was important not to rush the process to avoid acid spitting. The strong acid was contained in large glass vessels iirc with a steel wire support cage packed with some sort of brown wadding.
Due to the passage of time I can't remember what the acid was - not done in a fume cupboard due to the size of the flasks - just safety specs, face mask and rubber type gauntlets plus a rubber type apron.
Afterwards I would always wash my face and arms feeling itchy for the next hour - even my scalp demanded scratching.
Post by: Athame57 on July 10, 2023, 12:43:14 PM
White vinegar.I cleaned the interior of a tank like that, but then it turned black! :o
Post by: Athame57 on July 10, 2023, 12:46:47 PM
Just brick acid. Cheap, costs pence, reusable. Beats evaporust every time and certainly better than citric acid!Thanks, I just read about it. Alas, I wouldn't want to keep it in the house too toxic, I have some COPD and I avoid risk as suggested in my original post, if in an exaggerated way! :o
Post by: K2-K6 on July 10, 2023, 01:54:09 PM
Just brick acid. Cheap, costs pence, reusable. Beats evaporust every time and certainly better than citric acid!Thanks, I just read about it. Alas, I wouldn't want to keep it in the house too toxic, I have some COPD and I avoid risk as suggested in my original post, if in an exaggerated way! :o
Obviously a non medical opinion here (have worked with strong chemicals and aware of the aromatic effect) and just checked some of the "Flow" solution in this quite hot day, you have to get your nose right in the container to even smell it at all. Certainly it seems very benign a product that may suit in this regard.
Post by: Trigger on July 10, 2023, 02:30:39 PM
Just brick acid. Cheap, costs pence, reusable. Beats evaporust every time and certainly better than citric acid!Thanks, I just read about it. Alas, I wouldn't want to keep it in the house too toxic, I have some COPD and I avoid risk as suggested in my original post, if in an exaggerated way! :o
It all depends on what you are trying to get rust off.
Frame is easy, wire brush and if it has gone too far, cut it out and replace. Citric acid works well in petrol tanks ;)
Post by: 3scs on July 10, 2023, 05:48:39 PM
Post by: Seabeowner on July 10, 2023, 07:03:35 PM
Bilthamber Deox-C is a great product.I used Deox-C on the insides of a tank recently. Cheap from DK as pretty grim inside. Did the shake, rattle and roll with a load of small metal bits with some other fluid to start with. Then half a day of electrolysis using an old battery charger and then the Deox finished it off brilliantly. Best served hot, so I insulated the tank to keep it hot for as long as possible. But only took a few hours.
Bilt Hamber Deox C Concentrated Rust Remover (1000g) https://amzn.eu/d/bndF2MG
Post by: K2-K6 on August 06, 2023, 05:33:49 PM
It's a carpenter combination square, old type with hardwood handle, brass fitting and plain steel blade with no surface treatment at all. Bad corrosion converted, lumpiness remains, but exactly as when we took it out of the treatment.
Has no flash rusting or other side effects, left the brass alone and the wood with normsl appearance.
May not be as aggressive as other chemical removal in totality of oxidised waste materials, but for things like inside of tanks etc it may give stable and apparently longer lasting results.
Post by: Athame57 on August 06, 2023, 07:48:41 PM
Thought I'd add something to thread, anecdotal, we treated quite a few old bits and tools with thst "Flow" product, one of which has been left outside for six weeks now and with no rust response at all.What be this 'flow product', are we talking about less than precious bodily fluids? ;D
Post by: K2-K6 on August 06, 2023, 08:30:59 PM