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Topics - sye
31
« on: September 08, 2018, 05:34:12 PM »
Had my gauges done by Peter and had to post this as a recommendation of his outstanding work. To say I'm delighted is an understatement, they look like new. The picture below doesn't do them justice.
32
« on: August 30, 2018, 11:56:48 AM »
I'm just about to get my hubs spoked and am shopping for the hoops. I would have chosen Avon or Continental but both only do a 4.00x18 rear which they don't recommend for a 1.85 rim. There are some available in the sizes I need but I have no experience of the makes.
What make do you all recommend that do a pair in 3.25x19 and 3.5x18 please?
33
« on: August 25, 2018, 04:37:27 PM »
Have any of you fitted the replacement RR24 from Electrex World to a 500 please and if so, where did you place it? I've attached mine to the original point on the bracket but I'm not overly happy with the installation as it could swivel if the bolt came undone.
There is an alternative, I could use the original captive nuts on the right side and make an angle bracket to hang it underneath. I am interested in finding out what others have done before I spend another half day messing about.
Thanks, Sye.
34
« on: August 24, 2018, 03:47:34 PM »
Hmmm, need a bit of guidance here please. I've rebuilt the rear hub with new bearings, greased it up and put on the L/H thread retaining ring using the correct tool thingy. It's tight, very tight in fact but still doen't sit flush to the carrier face. I have measured the gap using feeler gauges and can get a 0.12mm feeler in there. All bearings were drifted in using a bearing tool of the correct size and sit tight on the shoulders and was spotlessly clean prior to the work being carried out.
Should the ring be flush to the face or is a small gap normal? I am concerned about applying any more pressure as it is already very tight.
35
« on: August 12, 2018, 04:38:57 PM »
I'm beginning to get a little frustrated with this after working on it for hours. I noticed that the filter element didn't sit poperly in the housing and noticed that the reason is there is an M6 nut in the way. The washer 17318-323-010 has a captive thread and doesn't protrude into the case very much at all but a nut does. This washer sits inside the case at the bottom and connects the housing with the carb intake box. This part is listed as unavailable, although there is a seller in Italy with one that will cost me £30.00 shipped...  I'm sure I'm not the first to come across this issue and there must be a work around but for the life of me I can't work it out. How have others got along without this part please?
36
« on: August 11, 2018, 11:19:41 AM »
I'm in a bit of a quandry about the bolts. The standard BZP 8mm bolts have a 12mm head and the 10mm a 14mm. The rest appear to be standard. Yamiya sell bzp bolts that appear to be the OEM spanner size and even supply full kits for the 750 but not the 500.
Where do you all source bolts from please? Are you happy to use stainless with 13mm and 17mm heads instead of the OEM sizes.
There's very little in the way of fasteners that I can salvage from the bike as most were replaced with allen head or basterdised fasteners of one description or another.
Any help appreciated.
37
« on: August 08, 2018, 03:18:03 PM »
Do you still use the lower dust seal and washer when fitting tapered head bearings? Just checking before I fit them and there's none in the kit and no destructions either. Thanks, Sye.
38
« on: August 06, 2018, 08:33:35 PM »
Is it worth paying three times as much for a genuine lever or are the aftermarket ones good?
39
« on: August 02, 2018, 03:56:09 PM »
I've just stripped the front caliper and forced out the piston with the compressor and am astonished at what I've found! The inner bore is scored and was coated with coppaslip, the seal is toast and the piston is s pitted as to be useless. I need to replace the caliper body, seal, piston and bleed nipple at the very least. Strip the old damaged paint off and refinish. Pricing the individual parts leads me to believe it may be cheaper, quicker and cause me much less grief to replace the lot. There are plenty of offerings out there but I have no idea what's good and what's not? Any pointers or recommendations most welcome. On a positive note, the frame turned out really well and is hanging from the garage rafters. 
40
« on: July 29, 2018, 03:56:46 PM »
I'm getting together the bits that are missing for the eventual rebuild. Someone has put a brass shim under the swingarm rear axle nut instead of the 18.5 x 34mm washer, which is unavailable as a genuine part. M18 x 34 x 3mm thick washers are readily available and will do the job but does anyone know the original washer thickness please?
Thanks, Sye.
41
« on: July 28, 2018, 12:51:20 PM »
Hello, I've decided to replace the F/R rims as it will be cheaper than getting them chromed. The rear isn't too bad, with some quite severe marks and some flaking but the front is rotten. I have searched the forum and some suggest replacing them with the larger rear rim from the 750.
Is this a good thing to do? Are there any issues with clearance or anything else I need to be aware of? Is there anyone out there that wouldn't do it and why please?
Thanks, Sye.
42
« on: July 16, 2018, 01:07:10 PM »
Can someone please tell me what finish is on the brake rod. I know it's not rust but there are traces of both silver and black paint. Thanks.
43
« on: June 16, 2018, 04:07:58 PM »
As the bike was showing under 9000 miles I thought that I would check it out before riding it for the rest of the summer and then start on a refurb/rebuild. A good job I did as I have a shorter list of what I'm happy with than unhappy, so the work begins. I didn't know that liquid gasket had so many uses.  This bike has been off the road since 2003 and I can believe it. Almost everything has rusted, is stuck or requires servicing and someone in the past has done some (ahem) repairs on the loom that need to be undone and start again. Onwards and upwards Rodney, this time next year it should be done. I have attached a few pics of where I'm at.
44
« on: June 15, 2018, 01:25:35 PM »
45
« on: June 12, 2018, 03:54:53 PM »
I have seen some comments on the forum that some of the information in the 500/4 manual is incorrect. Does this apply to both Haynes and Clymer or just one and which would you recommend?
Thanks.
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