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« Last post by Bryanj on May 26, 2024, 08:26:27 PM »
That collar and bearing usually need a hydraulic press to remove and from memory there is a small cross section O ring between collar and bearing but its not shown in any books. Honda use to recommend changing shaft with bearing and the cost extra used to be negligable
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« Last post by Bryanj on May 26, 2024, 08:22:59 PM »
Back in 76 as a young(er) rider i fitted a h4 unit and with lights on stayed 1 gear lower than in daylight, not forgetting in UK we can switch lights off
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Is that instant gasket on the rocker cover? There appears to be a lot of gasket debris on the edges of the mating surfaces and into the threads. You didn't use liquid gasket on the crankcase to barrel joints did you because that can be squeezed into the oilways and block them and that could well be your problem. Likewise if loose instant gasket debris floats around in the sump it can be picked up by the oil pump and sent up the oilways and create a blockage at the restrictor jets.
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« Last post by DomP on May 26, 2024, 08:19:34 PM »
Thanks Bryan, I've got an original style globe type bulb fitted currently
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« Last post by Dolomite_ on May 26, 2024, 08:16:22 PM »
A stupid question but is the roller bearing damaged and worn? The gearbox on Ratty had over 45k on it (probably over 50k as the PO had fitted a mini Speedo on the bike at some point). When I checked the roller bearings they were fine, no play, no nasty rumbling and no tight spots. The rest of the engine was in a terrible condition as a result of the PO blasting it with a sand gun. The roller bearing was good to go again but unfortunately the shaft was worn beyond repair and I purchased the two gear shafts from Ted. I have no idea how many miles were on that gearbox but again the roller bearings were absolutely fine.
The bearing doesn't feel great, quite gritty when spinning it.
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A stupid question but is the roller bearing damaged and worn? The gearbox on Ratty had over 45k on it (probably over 50k as the PO had fitted a mini Speedo on the bike at some point). When I checked the roller bearings they were fine, no play, no nasty rumbling and no tight spots. The rest of the engine was in a terrible condition as a result of the PO blasting it with a sand gun. The roller bearing was good to go again but unfortunately the shaft was worn beyond repair and I purchased the two gear shafts from Ted. I have no idea how many miles were on that gearbox but again the roller bearings were absolutely fine.
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« Last post by Dolomite_ on May 26, 2024, 07:56:31 PM »
I've tried heating the collar, clamping the bearing and giving the shaft a wack. Not budging at all.
There does seem to be a seal between the bearing and collar. There is no way to remove the gear, the groves are too big for it to slide off the other way, the bearing and collar are holding it on.
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« Last post by Skoti on May 26, 2024, 07:52:22 PM »
That is a standard car bulb and there is an H4 equvalent, i will see if i can find a number for you cos im bored
Bryan, I first made the mistake of fitting a normal H4 halogen bulb, and found the charging system would not cope well when driving in towns etc. I have a volt meter fitted and noticed the voltage drop below 11.5 volts when waiting at traffic lights and road junctions. I switched back to the standard 410 bulb to rectify the problem, but now have an LED which obviously has an even lower power draw. Volt Meter:- https://photos.app.goo.gl/GQUC6TZKV9SkJBCh9
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« Last post by Bryanj on May 26, 2024, 07:49:40 PM »
Pic of original
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« Last post by Bryanj on May 26, 2024, 07:45:36 PM »
Are these the bulbs, pic of halogen
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